Tag: places

Greedy Salento: ten places that (always) deserve a stop – Italian Cuisine


The suggestive Trattoria Iolanda in Lucignano
Sea urchins: Salento 'cult' from Sapori d'Arneo to Porto Cesareo
The large outdoor area of ​​the Masseria del Sale in Manduria
Battuto di gamberi, specialty of the sky in Ostuni
Balboa pharmacy, trendy place in Tricase
Super-typical cuisine at the Taverna del Porto in Tricase
Already under the Arch in Carovigno: a Michelin starred table
The mackerel soup with crazy water of Le Macàre in Alezio
Inside a hotel: Teresa's Fornelli in Tricase
Bros: the talent of Floriano Pellegrino and Isabella Potì in Lecce

All crazy about Salento: also for its cuisine. And if many Italians consider it generically Apulian, in reality it has the ability to exalt the concept of poor kitchen, the result of centuries-old traditions and products, coming mainly from the countryside. The dishes contribute the Adriatic fish is a bit of meat, preferably horse. It is the realm of cultivated or wild vegetables, also for this reason the domain of taverns-restaurants-farms with cuisine on top restaurants.

The advice of Antonio Guida

Four for the record the Michelin stars: Already under the arch in Carovigno, The Ricci stove to Ceglie Messapica (which is actually on the border with the Murge, with a cuisine based only on land and vegetables), Sky in Ostuni and the celebrated Bros in Lecce, the place of the young Pellegrino brothers, with their cuisine of contamination even with the Orient. Which is provocation in a land like this, as he explains Antonio Guida, son of Salento who grew up in France, grew up in the Argentario and consecrated in Milan, at the helm of Silk, two-piece jewel inside the Mandarin Oriental. «Ours is a cuisine of ingredients, more than others. We look for simple, intense combinations that are discovered as children thanks to mothers and grandmothers in the kitchen, "he says. "We have always cooked a lot at home and continue to do it."

The unmissable dishes

In the long list of specialties to taste for the beginners of Salento, the chef recommends the frisa (a durum wheat biscuit) with tomato, lo sciuttidu which is the tasty local peperonata, cicureddhe cu the broad beans (wild chicory with fava bean puree), paparina and paparotta ("It's a recipe of my small town, Tricase", underlines Guida): the first is poppy fried in leaves, the second is the recovery par excellence based on advanced bread, legumes and turnip greens, all fried in olive oil which is the historic pride of the area. A first? Ciceri and tria: the characteristic lies in the cooking of the durum wheat semolina pasta which is partly fried and partly boiled. Then it joins the chickpeas cooked with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, onion and herbs: an ancient dish, Horace already mentioned it in his Satire (35 BC). As for the second, Guide imposes the tasting of pieces of horse meat, cooked in terracotta with garlic, celery, onion, tomato sauce and bay leaf. Ideal dish for a nice glass of red, perhaps Negroamaro: wine symbol of Salento and Puglia. Ready for the tour?

Trattoria Iolanda – Lucignano

We have been eating well here for almost 50 years, thanks to the efforts of the same family. There are all the Salento specialties, very good first courses and a proposal prepared on the grill. Always book.

Flavors of Arneo – Porto Cesareo

A place that always likes because in addition to being a well-stocked wine shop, with a simple and direct cuisine, it promotes a lot of initiatives to make the local flavors and wines known.

Masseria del Sale – Manduria

We are in the capital of Primitivo, a great wine of the area: a unique place, housed in a restored seventeenth-century farmhouse. You can taste good dishes of land and sea. In the evening it is spectacular, also for the lighting.

Heaven – Ostuni

Remarkable location, hosted by the La Sommità relay: small internal courtyard or a white barrel-ceilinged room. The cuisine starts from the excellence of the region, but Andrea Cannalire's hand turns towards a more creative line.

Balboa Pharmacy – Tricase

Already the sign puts you in a good mood: "Spirit drinks and fine wines". It is the best-known place in the town, also frequented by foreign VIPs and which offers top mixology. Ideal for an aperitif or after dinner.

Taverna del Porto – Tricase

Salento cuisine is largely linked to the land. But in this restaurant, on the seafront, you can taste excellent fish dishes: raw of the day, large fried fish, octopus, skewers ..

Already under the Arch – Carovigno

On the first floor of a Baroque palace, with a splendid view of the town, there is one of the certainties of Apulian cuisine. The cook Teresa Galeone is good at revisiting (with class and lightness) the tradition, sometimes starting from ancient dishes.

Le Macàre – Alezio

In the local dialect, the sign means bewitching witches. And in fact this small place has a certain magic, made of Salento dishes, cured and in a modern key. Do not miss the rich mixed appetizer.

I Fornelli di Teresa – Tricase

It is the restaurant inside the Adriatico hotel: it owes its name to the founder who still manages it, offering dishes made in Salento and a good pizza, made with selected flours.

Bros – Lecce

The gourmet destination of the area: Floriano Pellegrino and Isabella Potì are young but already very good: "first Salento, then citizens of the world" (their words) enhance the products of the area with a high school technique. Gourmet experience.

12 places to eat well – Italian Cuisine

12 places to eat well


2020 is an important year for the ducal city that renews its fame in the world, not only culinary. An unmissable opportunity, between beautiful exhibitions and long walks in the center, to (re) discover the local cuisine. Here's where

We always go to Parma. They call her Petite Capital since – in the first half of the nineteenth century – it was the center of Duchy of Maria Luigia of Austria, second wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. For the whole of 2020, Parma 'repurchases the title' for the designation a Italian Capital of Culture, offering a series of events where in addition to its ambassadors alive or disappeared (from Giuseppe Verdi to the Bertolucci brothers) it will celebrate its visible or hidden beauty, the environment – starting from the Po – and of course the food that is one of the elements that made it as famous everywhere as the Teatro Regio di Parma which was instrumental in the relaunch of the Italian Michelin Guide as the venue for several consecutive years of the event. The ducal city, not surprisingly, is the pivot of the rich Food Valley, hosts Cibus (in 2020, it will be from 11 to 14 May) and for five years it has boasted the title of Unesco City of Gastronomy.

Exceptional products

Between a long walk in the historic center and the exhibitions (don't miss the one in Palazzo Pegorini on the history of the Gazzetta di Parma, the oldest Italian newspaper since it was founded in 1735), you can happily dedicate yourself to the joys of the palate. The summa is made up of typical salami (culatello di Zibello, Parma raw ham, Felino salami, San Secondo shoulder, coppa di Parma …) to pair with fried cake; the herb tortelli – here the subject of eternal discussions on the nuances to make them – and the anolini; mixed boiled meat and stew; the Maria Luigia cake and sweet tortelli obviously preceded by some flakes of Parmesan cheese, even better aged. The wine? Well, a great Lambrusco Doc or an unpublished Colli di Parma Doc. We have selected the premises where to taste these delicacies, staying in the city, without neglecting the new frontiers that also exist here. And never forget that ‘parmenese’ refers to the whole province and ‘parmesan’ only to Petite Capital: it's not a detail around here.

El Bajon

Simplicity in power, in the environment and in the kitchen: a 'little circle' that in Parma highly appreciate for the goodness of cold cuts and fried cake. Also try the mushroom lasagna. Pleasant surprise.

Enoteca Fontana

A timeless tavern with kitchen. The certainty for those who love cold cuts and snacks accompanied by a glass of Lambrusco. Very simple, lively environment frequented mainly by the Parmesans.

Red Shadows

Safe haven for those who love good food and especially good drink: local dishes – also for tasting – and encyclopedic wine list that animates themed events. Another plus, the cheeses

I Du Matt

Creativity is made with fish, tradition is respected for the rest of the menu with lots of meat and all the first courses in the repertoire. A modern trattoria, well managed by a couple in work and in life.

Flew away

Particular location: the food & fly club of the small city airport. But it is surprising for the environment – as a modern trattoria – and the excellent cuisine, with lots of meat and original dishes such as Carbonara 2.0.

Cortex Bistrot

The local of the moment in Parma: classy bistro in the center, led by young people, that goes beyond the local cuisine – without denying it – but with a 2.0 vision, as in the Garganelli with meat sauce. Interesting cellar.

Ancient Flavors

One of the most solid restaurants in Parma, close to 70 years of activity. Cuisine of great raw materials, attentive to tradition, but always with an author's touch. Cellar that allows you to have fun.

The Inkiostro

The exception that confirms the rule: in one of the lands most tied to tradition, one of the greatest creative chefs in Italy, namely Terry Giacomello, works. His is cuisine without borders, but does not spare beautiful provocations to the territory: see the Mezze manicole with ham, reduction of balsamic vinegar and fried cake.

The Tri Siocchèt

The classic Sunday restaurant – but not only – with lots of space, an old-fashioned welcome and one of the most beautiful gardens in the province. There is the whole repertoire of tradition, at competitive prices.

Parizzi

Starred for 40 years, it is the restaurant par excellence in Parma, thanks to the skill of the chef-patron Marco Parizzi and his wife Cristina. Tradition is not forgotten, but it is more interesting to taste eclectic and classy dishes such as guinea fowl in dried fruit crust with potatoes, spring onions and champignons.

Cocchi

The traditional sanctuary, attached to the Hotel Daniel: in two cozy and rustic rooms, it offers typical Parmesan cuisine. Meats and the veal tip stuffed with Parmigiana are not to be missed. Relevant cellar.

Ai Due Platani

In the hamlet of Coloreto there is one of the top restaurants in Emilia, the kingdom of the expert Giancarlo Tavani. The 'trimurti' made up of large local cured meats, stuffed pasta and the monumental cream ice cream is known to all Italian gourmets. The cellar is solid, from local wines to those from across the Alps.

Aosta Valley: the best places to eat and ski – Italian Cuisine


In Courmayeur and Cervinia, in the winter season, you don't go skiing. Here are the top addresses to eat and relax at very high altitudes!

Ready for skiing holidays? This year the snow is generous and in Valle d'Aosta everything is ready for the fun of skiers, non-skiers and gourmets. We at "La Cucina Italian" went to Courmayeur it's at Cervinia to see the new and historical places to return to, because we always like them. Here our tips, updated.

Snow Buffet 1

Courmayeur and surroundings

Lunch in the valley
Café Quinson in Morgex. Agostino Buillas, chef and bricoleur, does everything himself with the help of his wife, sister-in-law and daughter. Family-run, chalet-style dining room, kitchen open to guests who want to witness the ongoing work of a modern, but 100% regional menu. For starters: macarons and wafers stuffed with trout, fontina cheese and mountain butter, and “su-sci” with carne salada or salmon trout wrapped in white rice and Arnad lard. The main dishes: ravioli with sweetbreads or vegetables, and raised Valle d'Aosta cow. The wine list? It is an encyclopedic tome with a leather cover and hundreds of labels chosen by Buillas, one of the first sommeliers of the Aosta Valley. Its also the menu in the typical Skyway restaurant (montebianco.com), the most hi-tech cable car in Europe.

On the slopes
But Courmayeur is the worldly destination for skiing. On top of the eggs of the Dolonne they opened the new generation refuges. Chocolate with cream around the brazier on the panoramic terrace; or bubbles and royal plateaus in front of the fireplace at the Loge du Massif, intimate and romantic. While at SuperG the offer ranges from hot dog with Italian sparkling wine and DJ set for after ski to Andrea Berton's dishes: spaghetti with seafood and bottarga (or polenta with truffle), roast chicken with potato wreath, and Montebianco flambé. In the evening, the return to the village is with the snowcat. Or you can sleep at high altitude in one of the six upstairs bedrooms.

Snow buffet 2

After ski
"Courma", as regulars call it, has its rituals. Spritz and negroni meet at Caffè della Posta amid low lights, a lit fireplace and chatter. If, on the other hand, you want a sample cocktail, you have to go to the Massif hotel. The new five-star hotel has won Berny Ferro, the best bartender in the valley. To understand the level, just order his Genepito, an alpine version of mohito with local genepì, chopped lime, brown sugar, fresh mint and ginger ale. But the menu is much wider and ranges between pre and after dinner, bubbles, 16 whiskeys, 10 rums and as many non-alcoholic cocktails to drink sitting on the sofas in the living room.

The starry dinner
The address is historic: Hotel Royal & Golf. Its Le Petit Royal restaurant is a few months old and already the first Michelin star, guide 2020. Chef Paolo Griffa, 28, makes a simple beetroot walker special (with goat's cheese with herbs, fennel crackers and salad with vinaigrette of kombucha and walnut oil) or a pumpkin cream (and yarrow kefir yarrow, bergamot foam with pistachios and a pumpkin seed foam to make the shoe). The dessert is a work of art: the biscuit and gingerbread house filled with vanilla mousse and lemon icing, the snowman made with hazelnut Bavarian and coffee mousse and chocolate hat, the ice cream pinetto pistachio breaded in a matcha and yuzu tea cake. The experience far exceeds the story.

Where to sleep
The Auberge de la Maison, a small female-run hotel in Entreves, a few minutes from Courmayeur, at the foot of Mont Blanc. Alessandra Garin, the owner, grew up with a father who was fond of antiques, who went for pastures to buy old huts, and a modern interior decorator mother. And she conveyed family passions to Auberge by demonstrating how two very different styles can make the atmosphere special. Each environment is intimate and speaks of the place. Tortelli in pumpkin and guanciale sauce arrive at the table, polenta in cocotte with fontina, mushrooms and egg and truffle, chestnuts with cream: all very comfortable! In the spa the sauna is done in hay and the massages are with mountain herbs. The style is contemporary alpine, with pottery and old collectible tableware, and the windows frame Mont Blanc.

Cervinia

Gourmet half board
For those who love mountains and skiing, Cervinia is in the top list of the Aosta Valley, and the Hotel Hermitage is its elegant refuge, the quintessence of the pensions of the past. In the Relais & Chateaux at the foot of the Matterhorn, the Alpine Bengodi prevails. The half board menu is signed by Francesco Sposito (two Michelin stars at the Taverna Estia, near Naples), exemplary executed by Gabriele Avanzi. We recommend: "25 cm of plin" with fontina fondue and veal with Barolo veal, venison fillet with roasted pumpkin puree, rhubarb and red fruit chutney, salmon roe and game jus with spices and "royal millefeuille" ”With vanilla cream and salted caramel. The wine to try is undoubtedly the Monaja 300, produced by a Valle d'Aosta-Korean winemaker. Super.

The evening
Samovaran the meeting point of Cervinia from après ski to after dinner.

Traditional lunch
Beef carbonada marinated and cooked in red wine, polenta on the fire and the typical Seupa à la Vapelenentse (bread, broth, fontina, cabbage and leek soup, baked au gratin) at the La Clusaz inn in Gignod.

Snow buffet 3

5 things to buy

The fontina, mountain pasture (the summer one) or all year round at the Magazzino della Fontina Dop, with shop, museum of the cooperative founded 50 years ago and traveled through the old mine where the forms mature.

Arnad Dop lard and boudin (salami with beetroot and potatoes) by Pietro Laurent.

Berries and balsamic vinegars with pear or apple with Douce Vallée, in Chatillon.

Rye bread, torcetti and panettone baked Le coin du pain (Bret 13 / B, Chef-Lieu, Aosta): the owner Christian Trione is champion in international bakery competitions.

The typical Aosta Valley sweets flantze (with dried and candied fruit) and micoula (with chestnuts, walnuts, figs and raisins) at the La Bonne Vallée bakery.

The Chaudelune meditation wine at Morgex Cave Mont Blanc.

Photo by Pier Lomascolo.
Text by Sara Magro

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