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The new Bib Gourmands from the Michelin Guide – Italian Cuisine

The new Bib Gourmands from the Michelin Guide

There are 266 good food places, with a great value for money and a maximum of 35 euros. For the inspectors of the Red Army they are more important than the Stars, because they preserve the true spirit of the guide. Here are the news, from the Alps to Sicily

Perhaps not everyone knows that the Michelin Guidethat in 2020 it will be 120 years old – was born with a spirit far removed from today's value. It was a little book that the brothers Édouard and André Michelin, founders of the most famous tire manufacturer, had wanted to help the few thousand French drivers struggling with a journey that was often adventurous at the time. It contained practical information (where to refuel, where to find a workshop, where to change tires) and directions on where to eat and sleep. In Italy, for the record, the first Michelin Guide is from 1956 that reviewed places from the Alps to Siena, but from the following year it already covered the entire national territory. With a dry and precise language.

They do not enter with the Stars

The Michelin stars were born in 1931, and five years are put "as a system" and ultimately the method has remained so, ending up becoming fundamental for the prestige of a local, but above all of a chef. The concept of "chasing" the star in an almost scientific way is the son of the 80s, on the wave of the clamorous assignment of the first three stars by the French – who until then considered us very little – at the restaurant of Gualtiero Marchesi in Milan. Suffice it to say that in the 70s Italy had a dozen or so small and a few dozen single stars. To understand, in the just presented edition, there are a total of 374 starred restaurants, with eleven Three Stars and 35 Two Stars. Perhaps too many, but it is also true that compared to the past, the rule of the chef-patron does not apply and the restaurants inside a hotel are no longer penalized as in the past, on the contrary.

Quality-price: it counts a lot

What has not changed is precisely the concept of Bib Gourmand, where instead of the classic plate with the "macarons", the one with is placed the smiling face of the Michelin Little Man who licks his mustache. The pictogram indicates a place that offers a pleasant gastronomic experience, with a complete menu for less than 35 euros. I am 266 in all of Italy, in the cities as in remote villages in the Apennines, precisely to help the traveler find a delicious refuge. THEThe quality-price ratio is an essential element in the selection, but priority is the passion for the table that creates the atmosphere of the Bib Gourmand, in which you can taste recipes often inspired by tradition. But it is also true that in the 25 novelties of the 2020 Guide there are three ethnic venues.

Emilia-Romagna in the lead

Here is the complete list of the new Bib Gorumand: The Osteria del San George (Genoa), Osteria La Torre (Cherasco), Empire (Sizzano) Italy (Quarona) Canton Restaurant (Capriate S. Gervasio), The nine bowls (Milan), Elisa and Fausto – Locanda Setteca ’ (Valdastico), Kurbishof (Anterivo) Alpenrose (Bressanone), La Grotta since 1918 (Sasso Marconi / Mongardino), The Campanara (Galeata) Trattoria Antichi Sapori (Parma / Gaione) Podere 39 (Florence), Typical & La Locanda del Capitano (Montone) The Temple of Taste (Spoleto) From Gregorio (Orvieto / Morrano) Osteria Ophis (Offida), L'Oste della Bon'Ora (Grottaferrata) From Armando al Pantheon (Rome), Greent. (Rome), Trattoria Pennestri (Rome), Estro (Pescara), Spoon (Teramo), Le Antiche Sere (Hvar) Venetian (Randazzo). Curiosity: for Bib Gourmand numbers, the region where you eat best isEmilia-Romagna with 33 seats, followed by Piedmont with 32, Lombardy with 28, Tuscany with 27 and Veneto with 22.

Guide to choosing the best white wine of South Tyrol – Italian Cuisine

Guide to choosing the best white wine of South Tyrol

The Trentino Alto Adige is a region where so many faces live together. The differences of the two macro areas known as Trentino and Alto Adige are also expressed in the most famous product of this Italian area: wine. Although red wines are just as interesting, they are the South Tyrolean whites to draw more attention to yourself. Discover how to choose the best white wine of South Tyrol for your dinner!

The origins of wine in South Tyrol

THE'South Tyrol is a territory that is part of the autonomous region with special statute known as Trentino Alto Adige. There are two provinces: that of Trento, which covers all the part known as Trentino, and that of Bolzano, to which South Tyrol refers. The two areas have strong linguistic and ethnic differences, but share a large chunk of wine history, which in Roman times saw the two areas unified under the name of Rezia. Viticulture developed very early in these two provinces. It has the first trace in an amphora dated 2000 BC found in Valle Isarco, in Alto Adige, inside which there are traces of grape seeds. An Etruscan vase called situla, dating back to the 8th century BC was instead found in Val di Cembra, in Trentino.

Both Trentino and South Tyrol are entirely mountainous areas. The river draws the boundaries of the various valleys Adige, which runs from north to south. The upper course of the Adige forms the Val Venosta and the Valle dell'Adige. Its largest tributary is the Isarco, in whose valley the Val Pusteria and the Valleys of Funes, Val Gardena, Val Egna and Val Sarentina converge. In South Tyrol the climate it is predominantly alpine, with strong seasonal and daily temperature ranges, although in some periods it is substantially mild, thanks to the mountain ranges that act as a barrier to the northern winds. The extraordinary aroma of these wines is therefore given both by the climatic element and by the different chemical composition of the soils, which influence the aromatic bouquet.

The most famous white wines of South Tyrol

Despite the not very vast production area, just 5,000 hectares, and the production of only 350,000 hectoliters, the wines from Alto Adige stand out for their numerous awards received. Furthermore, 98% of the wines produced in Alto Adice have the D.o.c. brand.

But what are they? the most famous white wines of South Tyrol? Impossible not to mention the Gewürztraminer, native vine known for its aromaticity. Despite the German name, this wine originates from Alto Adige and, to be precise, was born in Termeno, in the province of Bolzano. In German gewürz means spices while tramin is the German name of Termeno.

In all German-speaking countries the Traminer it was a vine known since the thirteenth century. Then this aromatic grape fell into oblivion until it became one of the most famous and appreciated South Tyrolean wines in the world thanks to its highly original bouquet. Today the Gewürztraminer it is also cultivated in the heart of Alto Adige enoico, in Appiano and Caldaro.

In this area, also known as Oltradige, some famous white grapes are grown, such as the Pinot Bianco. Winemakers trace its origin back to the genetic mutations of Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris. This international vine of French origins is cultivated all over the world, but found in Alto Adige, where it has been cultivated for over 150 years, one of its most suitable lands.

It is a very early vine, a characteristic that makes it suitable for extreme regions for viticulture such as South Tyrol. In the past it was often confused with Chardonnay. The wine obtained is of a beautiful straw yellow, fresh, dry and full-bodied. The Pinot Bianco it is also cultivated in the central stretch of the Valle Dell'Adige, between Terlano, Nalles and Andriano.

In the same area is cultivated Riesling. This vine grows among the red earths, the result of porphyritic pluvial deposits, giving birth to long-lived white wines. The most suitable territories for this type of vine are the valleys of the rivers Rhine, Main, Nahe, Moselle, Saar and Ruwer. However, Riesling grown in Italy produces a straw-colored wine with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fruity, with hints of peach and apricot, and a hydrocarbon finish. In South Tyrol it is also cultivated in the Isarco Valley.

In the Bassa Atesina, at record altitudes such as those in the Favogna area, is cultivated Müller Thurgau, a typical grape of the Val di Cembra, but which also in this area creates interesting expressions in a glass and bottle.

This vine owes its name to a Swiss winemaker, Hermann Müller. At the end of the nineteenth century, in the canton of Thurgau, it crossed the pollen of the Riesling Renano with a little known vine, called Madeleine Royal. The first to implant it in Trentino were the researchers of the Agricultural Institute of San Michele. Typical of the Val di Cembra, it adapts well to the cold climate. It reacts well on the porphyritic soils of the Adige Valley and on the lean and sandy ones of the Val Venosta.

The Sylvaner is a white grape variety originating in some of the Styria region, Austria, for others in the middle Rhine valley. Widespread in the Isarco Valley and in the central area of ​​the Adige Valley, the Sylvaner takes its name from the Latin word silva, which means wood. Recent DNA studies have shown that the vine comes from a cross between traminer and Austrian white. A straw yellow wine with greenish reflections is obtained. A pleasant dry wine with slightly bitter notes, it is flavored with the right acidity.

The Kerner is another of the vines that enrich the Isarco Valley. It is a semi-aromatic white berry vine. It was created in 1929 by August Herold, in Germany, crossing Schiava grossa (a variety also known as Trollinger) and Riesling. It owes its name to the German doctor and poet Justinus Kerner, who wrote numerous poems about this vine. D.o.c. Alto Adige since 1993, the Kerner it is a wine that appears straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. It has an intense aroma that turns towards the Muscat. Fresh and fruity, it has less acidity than Riesling, a characteristic that makes up for with more body.

Although it is not a native vine, the region is suited to the cultivation of Chardonnay, which is well suited to the continental pre-Alpine climate. On its own it represents about a third of the entire regional production. This type of grape is used as a base for the production of Spumante Trento Doc classic method. It is grown in the central area of ​​the Valle Dell'Adige.

In the Adige Valley, between Bolzano and Merano, another international grape variety is grown, the Sauvignon. It is a white grape variety from the French area of ​​Bordeaux. The name derives from the French word sauvage (meaning "wild"), in homage to the origins of a native plant of the south-west of France. It is one of the most widespread vines in the world. The wines created with Sauvignon grapes must be consumed quickly. Aging in excess of one year does not give any improvement effects on the organoleptic characteristics.

The best wines to pair with fish

THE dishes based on fish they are celebrated worthily by all South Tyrolean white wines.

Thanks to its aromatic bouquet, the Gewürztraminer goes well with the sushi classic and sashimi, accompanied by a few slices of fresh ginger. It is also good in combination with raw fish, one barbeque or one Tempura of crustaceans. Perfect with the classic fillet of baked sea bream. Salmon, tuna, smoked herring, sardines and roasted stockfish are also incredibly valued by this aromatic wine.

The Müller Thurgau it goes perfectly with fish first courses such as pappardelle with fresh tuna and cherry tomatoes, penne prawns and zucchini and other shellfish sauces. Also perfect with grilled (or boiled) fish, accompanied by grilled vegetables.

The Kerner it goes well with dishes based on shellfish and appetizers of seafood. Also perfect with grilled fish accompanied by vegetables.

The Pinot Bianco it goes perfectly with fish terrine, trout and salami char slightly smoked.

The Riesling perfectly accompanies dishes based on monkfish and recipes with protagonists clams.

The best wines to pair with meat

Among the South Tyrolean wines to pair with meat, the still stands out Gewürztraminer, also very suitable for more refined dishes like the Foie gras (which also goes well with the Kerner). This wine enhances the exotic in an exceptional way chicken with curry.

The Sylvaner goes well with specialties of White meat, but also with mushrooms and spicy dishes. However, the perfect encounter is with the asparagus.

The best wines to pair with aperitifs

During an aperitif we can come across both small baked goods, foie gras and small crustacean tarts, and a rich selection of cheeses. For the latter type of dish the best South Tyrolean wines to serve are the Sauvignon, the Müller Thurgau, the Kerner and the Riesling (species combined with goat cheese).

The best table wines

Among the best wines to be enjoyed throughout the meal, from appetizers to desserts, there are definitely the Müller Thurgau and the Sylvaner.

The best dessert wines

The Gewürztraminer also exists in version raisin: with this wine you will build a winning combination even with desserts typical of the South as the Neapolitan pastiera.

Never South Tyrolean sweet wines they are numerous. In this land are produced Yellow Moscato Passito D.o.c. and the Moscato Rosa D.o.c. and blends built with Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Gewürztraminer. Each cellar offers its best expression to combine with cakes, pastries and pastries.

The best wines for aging

The South Tyrolean white wines that lend themselves best to aging are born in the Valle dell'Adige, between the municipalities of Terlano, Nalles and Andriano. The vines, fed by red porphyritic lands, produce Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Riesling, Müller Thurgau is Sylvaner.

The best wines to give away

Among the South Tyrolean wines to give the "prince of the cart" remains the aromatic and seductive Gewürztraminer, to give dry or passito. To amaze your guests, bet also on lesser known vines and all to be discovered like the Müller Thurgau, the Riesling "Made in Italy" and the Sylvaner.

Gambero Rosso 2020 Guide: here are the best – Italian Cuisine

Gambero Rosso 2020 Guide: here are the best

In the edition celebrating 30 years of activity, there is only one new Tre Forchette: Idylio in Rome. And the confirmation of Niko Romito's Real as a number one restaurant. But also a lot of attention towards the youngest, in the kitchen and in the dining room

Thirty years after the first edition, the Gambero Rosso Guide to Italian Restaurants celebrates an important birthday, confirming the good moment of our catering and carefully observing the evolution in every sector. In 1991, the year in which the first edition was made, 966 rooms were reviewed, three of which earned the Three Forks. 30 years later, for the 2020 edition, 2685 places are examined and 35 are Three Forks, that is the top of the sector. It is not just a question of numbers, but of a world that has changed for the better. Starting from the concept that the restaurant must be an overall experience, in this edition the evaluation system has been changed, still in hundredths, but decreasing the importance of the kitchen – from 60 to 50 – for the benefit of the hall that has passed from 20 to 30. The maximum value for the winery is 20. This made it even more difficult to stay or enter the elite of the Three Forks. And for this reason a new alert was created: the Two Red Forks to signal the locals ready for the leap in quality.

The exploit of Francesco Apreda

Let's start with the Three Forks: compared to last year, there are no more Ilario Vinciguerra in Gallarate, Colline Ciociare in Acuto, La Siriola of the Ciasa Salares Hotel in San Cassiano (closed) and Imago of the Hassler Hotel in Rome. The only new Tre Forchette of the 2020 edition, the Idylio of the Pantheon Hotel, has a history linked precisely to the Imago: the chef Francesco Apreda had left it in February 2018, after 16 years of work, to move to the new structure, still in the Capital. In six months he returned to the top. The podium of the Three Forks lost only one of the three rooms that were paired in the second step in 2019: now there are with 95/100 Osteria Francescana in Modena and La Pergola of the Hotel Rome Cavalieri in the capital because (strangely) Le Calandre di Rubano they lost a point. The king has not changed, namely Niko Romito, who keeps his Reale in Castel di Sangro at 96/100 touching perfection in every element: 49 for the kitchen, 18 for the cellar, 28 for the service and a bonus point for the relationship between training and use in kitchens, one of the essential visions in the Abruzzo chef's commitment.

Eye to Footprint

The elites of the individual categories, in part, have changed: i Tre Gamberi (taverns and trattorias) have reached 40 with four new entries; the Three Bottles (wine bars with kitchen and wine bar) and i Tre Globes (ethnic) ten and four respectively remain, with the replacement in the first case of Damini Macelleria & Affini in Arzignano – now a restaurant – with Da Nando in Martegliacco. "Dry yourself" finally Three Mugs (now they are Nidaba in Montebelluna) and the Osteria di Birra del Borgo and Open Baladin in Rome) and the Tre Cocotte (bistrot) reduced to three: Lanzani Bottega & Bistrot in Brescia, Amo in Venice and Cucina.eat in Cagliari. Important is the designation of Impronta in Bassano del Grappa as a novelty of the year, led by Cristopher Carraro from Vicenza, already starred at Casual in Bergamo: it is usually the prelude to an excellent career, often greeted by a subsequent Michelin Star.

Women protagonists

18 special prizes. Two have gone to big names in Italian cooking such as Ciccio Sultano (restaurateur of the year) and Moreno Cedroni (for innovation), but the choice of Merano is also important Edvige Simoncelli – who works at the Idylio, among other things – as a pastry chef and from Salento Solaika Marrocco (Prima Restaurant in Lecce) as an emerging chef, confirming the importance of women (especially young people) in the kitchen. The two awards for the room are not surprising: Da Vittorio in Brusaporto for restaurants, Il Piccolo Principe of the Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte in Forte dei Marmi for the hotel premises. If for the Gambero Rosso the Italian pasta temple is Sud a Quarto, led by Marianna Vitale (another women, then), Gianfranco Pascucci at the Fiumicino Marina the best fish dish of the season is served: Fusillo al nero in a plastic sea. Finally, an excellent idea of ​​Gambero Rosso: to report 30 young people under 30 – recalling the seniority of the guide – divided between kitchen and dining room. Some already very famous, many known but largely not yet known by the general public, but certainly with talent and desire to grow.

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