Enrico Chambertin's itinerant pizza project stopped at a seafood restaurant in Rome, where the challenge was to study a seafood pizza menu
His name is Enrico Cappuccini, but everyone knows him as Enrico Chambertin, his alter ego social. He was born as a computer consultant, but at some point in his life he was enlightened on the Damascus street of pizza. Which then in Rome is via Ozanam, where the Gatta Mangiona by Giancarlo Casa, his mentor with dough and flour mixes. The project Wandering Pizzas he was therefore born with the advice of the latter and with the complicity of an engineer friend, Carmine Piano, who helped Enrico modify an F1 oven and who accompanies him in the production of pizzas. This is a semi-professional electric oven created for true pizza enthusiasts, but which in the case of Enrico has been made more performing, to reach higher temperatures in less time and get closer to Neapolitan cooking.
Style and pizzas
In conclusion, a kind of dismantled motor like in the eighties, on the saddle to which Enrico goes to the restaurants that host him, even to the houses, bringing his dough and his style. At the base, in fact, there is a blend of organic flours, on which the Sicilian tumminia prevails. The rest does it there long leavening, at least 48 hours, and rapid cooking at very high temperature, in the Neapolitan style. There are classic pizzas, such as margherita, but also those that take their cue from the place where Enrico is at that moment, because the value of Pizze Vaganti is also that of knowing how to adapt to the "culture" of the place.
The last stage of the pilgrimage is almost on the sea route, in via Tiberio Imperatore, in the Eur / Ostiense area: turn the corner and you are on Colombo, where you can run straight on the Pontina and arrive at least in Ostia. But if you stop there is a surprise: the da Michele restaurant, where Enrico is with his pizzas from Thursday to Sunday. In the hall Marco Pignotta, son of the patron who gave the name to this place. Not the classic fish restaurant as it is meant in Rome, we are head and shoulders, because the fish is very fresh, well-worked, with an unpredictable menu and fair prices. Outside the neighborhood almost nobody knew him, until Enrico arrived, with whom shortly after the lockdown they also started delivering the pizzas.
Mussels and pizza and other crazy pizzas
The prolonged stop by Michele gave Enrico the opportunity to multiply the tests, for adapt Michele's workhorses to Enrico's dough. More than successful experiment: if the idea of mussels on pizza gives you the chills it is because you have not tasted stray pizzas and in particular Michele, dedicated to the owner of the restaurant and his workhorse: fior di latte, mussels, pecorino cheese, wild pepper and parsley. In practice it is a reinterpretation of a dish that has always been a cult in Roman fish restaurants: spaghetti with mussels and pecorino.
Then there is the variant with potatoes, mussels, pesto, which is a real treat. P.A.M is a divertissement: provola, smoked herring and apples. But there are also apparently classic pizzas like the Naples, on which the anchovies are raw and cooked very quickly thanks to the heat of the oven, or tuna and ciponne, which is trivially like tuna and onions, but here the onions are from Tropea and are caramelized and the quality of the tuna used, in fillets, is excellent.
Just a note: you have to understand that the oven that Enrico uses is small and allows you to make one pizza at a time, so don't expect everyone to order his pizza and see it appear at the table. The real game of such a menu is to unite a few friends for a nice tasting. Enrico will be with Michele at least until September, even if there is still no precise plan. His pilgrimages can be followed on the Facebook page of the Pizze Vaganti.
