Tag: dough

Neapolitan pizza, the secret lies in the dough – Italian Cuisine

For the third generation of the historic family of Neapolitan pizza makers, the secret is in the dough. "But be careful not to slap him"

The art of pizza is a World Heritage Site. "The culinary know-how linked to the production of Pizza, which includes gestures, songs, visual expressions, local jargon, the ability to handle pizza dough, perform and share is an indisputable cultural heritage. The pizza makers and their guests engage in a social ritual, whose counter and oven act as a "stage" during the pizza production process ", reads one of the reasons with which UNESCO has already proclaimed four years ago "The art of the Neapolitan pizza maker" Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

A milestone they know well Francesco and Salvatore Salvo, of the Pizzeria Salvo (two locations, one in San Giorgio a Cremano, the other on the Riviera di Chiaia in Naples) which for years have been passionately dedicated to their work, carrying on a tradition that has been handed down for three generations. To do this they started from the basics, studying and working on doughs and cooking, developing gastronomic and entrepreneurial ideas, looking ahead and looking around, also strengthened by this important recognition.

Francesco and Salvatore Salvo (photo Aurora Scotto di Minico).
Francesco and Salvatore Salvo (photo Aurora Scotto di Minico).

«The manual skills of the pizza maker have been forgotten for too long. But it is precisely the craftsmanship that has made the art of Neapolitan pizza unique ". We all have in mind the pizza chef who twirls the pizza disc, almost as if he were slapping it. "But be careful, pizza is not slapped", underlines Salvatore Salvo. In Salvatore's memory there is his father, to whom he owes everything, but also a recent memory. “During the conference Pizzaformamentis a few years ago I asked the Campania oenologist professor Michele Moio what the terroir of pizza was for him; “In your art”, he replied . What he meant was more subtle than it seems. «Our terroir is the ability to manipulate, something that is learned after 10-12 years, what I like to call a 'shop'. Yet this has not always been the case. "Over 50 years ago, the dough was difficult to roll out because most of the time summary leavening was used or with flours classified by pizza makers as" national ", but with a poor predisposition to keep low leavening points. Then in the 80s and 90s this ability was lost in favor of doughs that were easier to work with, which did not require who knows what manual skill, the shop was no longer needed , Salvo recalls disconsolately. "Even my father taught me what hydration was, using non-technical empirical examples:" the dough s'adda fa 'muoll "he said, only after I understood that the water inside increases chemical processes and promotes quality leavening enzymes. The pizza becomes softer, “it melts in your mouth, it doesn't get killed”. Dialectal terms that today I myself would not know how to translate .

Among the fundamental and most difficult things for Salvatore Salvo to learn was the art of knowing how to roll out the pizza. "The terroir of pizza is the ability to make hundreds of pizzas per hour, knowing how to roll them out and cook them at their best, a mechanical job done with your hands, which you learn with experience. The same point of dough, which translates into a number (which makes no sense to me: for example 69, 67, 71) is actually born in the hands of the pizza chef, who realizes how much hydration the dough has, making it more sticky , elastic, sensitive and, despite the support of many modern technologies, intervening in an empirical way .

Pizza Ortolana Autumn November 2021 (photo Angela Sposito).
Pizza Ortolana Autumn November 2021 (photo Angela Sposito).


«When you knead, don't get too hard, the more force and friction you create, the more you affect the development of leavening. Therefore, avoid processes that substantially deform the dough. Unlike bread, which takes longer, for pizza there is no laying period between processing and cooking. Be gentle. This does not mean short leavening: for a pizza made of medium strength flour, it takes 24 hours at room temperature .

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Turret of phyllo dough with chard, cabbage and bitto – Italian Cuisine

Turret of phyllo dough with chard, cabbage and bitto

1) Seared cabbage and chard in salted boiling water and drain. Unplug the stalks of the chard and set aside, cut all the leaves into chunks. Peel the onions, slice them and sauté them in a pan with a drizzle of oil and a few sprigs of rosemary. United sliced ​​pumpkin, add salt and cook for a few minutes.

2) Prepare the bechamel: you do melt the butter over low heat, add the flour, stirring quickly until a cream is created, add the milk slowly, stirring with a whisk, add salt and let it thicken. Seared pasta for lasagna in boiling salted water, drain it and place it on baking paper.

3) Brush the sheets of phyllo dough on both sides with half the butter, melted, and pepper. Lined a high springform pan of 18-20 cm diameter with squeezed wet parchment paper, then line it with the phyllo dough, letting it overflow abundantly.

4) Fill the mold alternating the vegetables, pasta for lasagna, sliced ​​bitto, bechamel and parmesan. Fold back the phyllo dough on the filling so that it remains "ruffled", sprinkle with sesame seeds and bake at 190 degrees for 20-25 minutes. Leave rest the timbale for 10 minutes before removing it from the mold. Meanwhile, review fry the stalks of the beets with the remaining butter and a pinch of salt and use them to garnish the serving dish along with a few sprigs of rosemary.


Posted on 22/12/2021


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Fillo dough: history, secrets and unusual recipes – Italian Cuisine


Originally from Turkey, more precisely from the kitchens of the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, phyllo dough is a highly versatile and delicious ingredient


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Ancient, exotic, mysterious
There phyllo dough, Greek cousin of our puff pastry, has its roots in the past aristocratic it is far. It was created, in fact, in the kitchens of the Topkapi Palace, a Istanbul, in the form of a very sweet baklava (a layered dessert) filled with honey and pistachios intended for the sultan. The name, which in Greek means "leaf", immediately suggests its minimum thickness and all its fragility. Exact deduction, since this type of pasta, whose home preparation is reserved for the most experienced, not only must be pulled to the extreme limit (and even beyond), but is susceptible to air and, if not protected, it dries quickly. In return it offers exceptional versatility, an excellent one taste neutral able to enhance sweet fillings as much as salty, spicy or spicy ones, the possibility of being baked in the oven or fried in a pan and aesthetic results of great effect: with the phyllo it is enough to create a simple spiral, a distracted crumple and the dish is transformed in a precious lace or in a bouquet of roses. Not only that: unlike our pastry, where a substantial stick of butter is part of the ingredients and is rolled with a rolling pin together with the rest of the dough, phyllo contains no fat, which makes it by far the lightest and most digestible pasta in its family.

How should the phyllo dough be treated?
Finally, among the many advantages, the fact that this laborious preparation can be purchased should not be underestimated already ready in some frozen food chains or ethnic specialty shops. Its use therefore becomes quite simple, as long as you take care to thaw the pasta very slowly, even for a whole day, first keeping it in the refrigerator and then at room temperature (for about 2 hours) and grease it with a little oil or melted butter. Also, while carrying out the operations required by the recipe with one or more sheets, remember to keep the others under a damp cloth. You will preserve its freshness and elasticity.

Roses of phyllo dough with dried fruit (doses for 12 people)
191826 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/pasta-fillo-ricette-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Very crunchy, golden at the right point and very sweet. Get yourself:
1 package of filo pastry – 100 g of butter – 100 g of toasted hazelnuts – 100 g of pistachios – 360 g of sugar – peel of 1 untreated orange

First step: for the roses, line the pan with parchment paper. Chop hazelnuts and pistachios e bring them together in a bowl with 60 g of sugar.
Second step: open the phyllo dough on the work surface e keep it blanket with a wet and well wrung cloth. Dissolve butter in a saucepan. Take a sheet of phyllo dough, brush it lightly butter, fold it in half, grease it again and sprinkle the dough with a tablespoon of dried fruit. Curled the dough with your fingers and then wrap it in a turban. Place the turban upright in the pan. Continue in the same way with the other sheets.
Third step: do it syrup. Bring to boiling 300 g of sugar, 3 dl of water and julienned orange peel and simmer for 6-7 minutes. Meanwhile, bake the roses at 200 ° for 30 minutes. Turn off and let it rest for 10 minutes, still in the oven.
Fourth step: remove the pan, generously wet the turbans with the prepared orange syrup and leave to rest for a few hours before serving.

Drink right
The phyllo is more delicate than the pastry, of which it does not have the fat element; to safeguard its crunchiness it is advisable to use light and sparkling wines to keep any greasiness at bay.

October 2021
Daniela Falsitta

Posted on 14/10/2021


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