The ladies of noodles: the restaurants to eat them at home – Italian Cuisine

In the Marche, a perfectly made tagliatella can be a good reason to deviate from the highway and look for the perfect trattoria. Here are five restaurants (and five women) that have made history.

The great Marche tradition of the made pasta at home he lives in many restaurants, but woe to underestimate the patriarchs, indeed, the "matriarchs". that is to say those trattorias and historical places, mostly from the rustic atmosphere, which they have taught, and where women have always been the real protagonists.

How to make tagliatelle

In Marche it is the ancestral dish. The simplest and most substantial food at the same time. One pound of flour for each egg. On the wide wooden "pastry board" a mound of flour is created and a hole is opened in the center with the hands. Whole eggs are poured and a pinch of salt. Then with the tips of the fingers you start to knead starting from the inside of the "fontanella". If you are energetic enough, a few minutes will be enough to create the dough, which will be divided into small loaves and left to rest indoors for at least a quarter of an hour. Now comes the most delicate part, that is, the art of puff pastry, in dialect the "sperna". It consists of creating thin discs of dough, spreading it patiently with a well-floured rolling pin to prevent it from sticking. Wrapping it around the rolling pin is an art. At the end the thickness should be homogeneous, about a couple of millimeters. The tagliatelle are then cut by hand with a long knife and left to dry for a few minutes on a cloth. To cook them you need plenty of water and depending on the thickness it takes from two to five minutes.

Where to eat them

Closed by Carola. Agugliano (AN)

Censored by the Marche Region as a historical place, it has been open since 1880. Also known as Carola, the lady who first brought the custom of handmade pasta, today, Fiorella Vico represents the fifth generation of restaurateurs and her noodles they are also famous outside the region. La Chiusa is located in the municipality of Agugliano (AN). A place in the countryside along the river, crossed by irrigation canals a few years ago. The classic ragù includes a mixture of veal, pork and chicken giblets, or there is that of wild boar, of “papera”, or the white version with ham and peas. Pappardelle, ravioli and tortellini are also handmade. Alternatively there are white and purple potato dumplings. In summer you can eat outside under the pergola and behind the restaurant, the small farm provides organic vegetables to the kitchen.

Ezio, the "King" of Macerata

In terms of Macerata noodles it has its myth. It's called trattoria Da Ezio. Ms. Mirella began working for Ezio in the 1960s, and that's how the era of handmade pasta began, vincisgrassi, ravioli, cappelletti and the inevitable tagliatelle, in fact. Opened in 1957 at the beginning of the central Via Crescimbeni, the trattoria is the point of reference for that "kitchen of the past" that attracts celebrities and tourists in search of rustic atmospheres. Here the noodles are eaten with the traditional Macerata sauce (made with veal from the Marche region) or with duck sauce. If you want to appreciate the taste of pasta the advice is to taste them seasoned only with the extra virgin olive oil that the company produces. Every week at least six hundred eggs are processed in the trattoria. The secret of the success of the Ezio tagliatelle is that each step is done exclusively by hand and the guarantee is the dexterity of the stainless lady Mirella.

The Knight and the secret of the "languid sauce". Camerino (MC)

In Polverina, a hamlet of Camerino, there is the trattoria Il Cavaliere. The restaurant has been open since 1963 and the custodian of the tradition of handmade pasta is Mrs. Gabriela Lamponi. The restaurant is a reference point for the territory and the Moreni family represents the fourth generation of restaurateurs. The pasta, pulled exclusively by hand, is very thin, and by absorbing the sauce it needs a fairly liquid dressing. The secret is in the "double sauce". On the one hand, a traditional ragù is prepared: fine minced beef browned in chopped carrot, celery and onion and cooked in tomato sauce, while in another pot a sauce is cooked with minced bacon, smells, pork bones, of lamb and beef, and always boiled with tomato sauce. This ancient flavor sauce is then combined with the more traditional sauce and left enough liquid. Hence the name "sugo languido". The meat and extra virgin olive oil are of own production. A must also taste of tagliatelle with fresh truffle from the Sibillini mountains.

Maria and tagliatelle with beans. Novilara (PU)

A family recipe that becomes a cult. The trattoria has been open since 1972, when Mrs. Maria Mencarelli decided to leave her business in the grocery store to return to Novilara, her hometown, on the hills between Pesaro and Fano. In the family, tagliatelle were made with bean sauce and today it has become a typical local recipe. The dressing is particularly creamy. The beans are placed in the pot and covered with about four fingers of water. Carrot, celery, onion, tomato paste and pork rind are added and everything is left to simmer for three to four hours. The pasta of tagliatelle is pulled by hand and left deliberately porous to better gather the seasoning. Ms. Maria cooks the sauce personally, as did her mother and her fame has attracted many celebrities, who have gone to the trattoria for noodles with beans.

Tagliatelle and Ginestre in the hills. Belvedere Ostrense (AN)

Open since 1985, it is a hillside restaurant with sea view in Belvedere Ostrense (AN). The noodles are handmade by Chef Roberta Ausili. A traditional dough where the proportions of the ingredients vary according to the season to obtain the right degree of humidity. Durum wheat flours are exclusively local and the ragù is made with mixed meats that also include duck. Stefano Seta runs the restaurant and his passion for hunting means that the ragù is enriched with the aroma of game every now and then. Truffle tagliatelle should also be tasted. The proximity to the sea also makes fish a must, and the perfect sauce is with torches (razor clams). Composed with the same fresh pasta there are also the "agnolotti mushrooms and walnuts", a recipe on the menu from the first day of opening.

THE MOST ROMANTIC RESTAURANTS OF THE MARCHE

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Pasta and smoked salmon, the most delicious recipes – Italian Cuisine

How to treat salmon to prepare a delicious first course and 5 recipes to try to fall in love with pasta seasoned with smoked salmon

Pasta and smoked salmon: what a good idea! Simple, quick to prepare and always good, it's a real one jolly recipe of which we cannot do without. But if you are thinking that there is only one way to do it, you are very wrong! Here are some directions for create always original dishes and a small collection of recipes to taste it like you've never done before.

Raw

One of the most intense ways to taste smoked salmon is to not work it. In this version it is perfect to enrich the pasta and has the only defect that tends to stick a little. To avoid this, cut it into a format similar to the pasta we have chosen: thin strips for pocket money, diced for dumplings and penne, rectangles for more important formats such as rigatoni. The seasoning? In this way it is perfect with private cherry tomatoes, six seeds, extra virgin olive oil and pepper.

Marinated

If we want to give an exotic twist to our pasta, we prepare smoked salmon with a marinade made with extra virgin olive oil, lemon or lime, and a mixture of black, white and pink pepper. We will drain it, cut it into slices and season our pasta with salmon, thinly sliced avocado and a few tablespoons of the marinade liquid.

Scalded in a pan

If you do not like raw meats, you can also cook smoked salmon in a pan to make it more like a cooked fish fillet. Do not overdo the cooking time or it will tend to dry out and take into account the fact that it will be very salty. For this reason we recommend combining it with another cooked and fancy ingredient such as fried zucchini and turning off the most intense flavors with a few leaves of fresh mint.

In the gallery above, 5 recipes not to be missed.

Escape to Alto Adige to discover great and young cooks – Italian Cuisine

Here is our guide for an eno-gastronomic tour of South Tyrolean excellence to discover great and young chefs, autochthonous wines and gourmet pizzas. All in the fresh air, in the Dolomites light

Stories of cooks

For those coming from northern Europe, it is the gateway to Italy. Just look at the ancient fortresses of lookout or the breathtaking castles that dominate the highlands, to remember its strategic importance. But South Tyrol is also the ideal place for a summer getaway from the hottest and busiest places, to breathe that fresh mountain air and to fully enjoy all the immense food and wine heritage that this region offers. The chefs are thus entrusted with the great task of transforming and enhancing local raw materials (and not only) by becoming the mouthpiece of a territory that is all to be discovered, tasted and "breathed". And they do it starting in the morning, with dream brunches; until lunchtime with snacks for mountaineers; and to dinners, in the light of the Dolomites.

The early bird catches the worm

That breakfast is the most important meal of the day in South Tyrol knows this well, also because it is often a destination for hikers and big walkers. Certainly the gourmets will appreciate the energetic international breakfasts both sweet and savory in places like Gius La Nonnaglück in the central square of Caldaro, where Gerda Gius prepares with a special care appetizing and tantalizing trays of humus and caramelized figs, feta salads, eggs, cured meats, yoghurts and much more of which we leave you the taste of surprise. Not to be missed is the Mein Beck di Lana café-bakery with torteria, where the varieties of local breads are a must (in addition to the Merano Merlot with carrots and chocolate): from Vitel with spelled sprouts, to the Schüttelbrot or schiacciatina of rye flour, up to the delicious Vinschger loaves flavored with cumin and fennel. But be careful: don't underestimate the ice cream.

The Mediterranean in the mountains

The Kofler brothers' dinner at the Farmerkreuz in Tyrol is also worth the trip. Manfred in the kitchen, Stefan in the dining room, a Michelin star and a great passion for cooking, which led them to transform the historic family business into a prestigious gourmet restaurant. Not only territory, but also sea, Mediterranean, to try in the tasting menu Alps to sea, that is from the Alps to the sea, which best of all tells the philosophy of this place; you will be positively impressed by the originality and the perfect success of dishes such as "Foie gras, Golden Delicious apple and Bronte pistachio", or from "The restricted broth of porcini with fagottino di patate and Sicilian red prawns", an evergreen ever present in paper. Because for them more than the kilometer zero counts the good kilometer, that is the quality product, even in the cellar, where we find both local and, for example, Croatian labels. But in reality we have not yet revealed yet another strong point: an unforgettable view of Merano from the top, with the Val Venosta on the right the Adige Valley in front.

From wood to 1200 meters in 1908

A carpenter's past, a present as a great chef and an even more promising future; and to think that the young Stephan Zippl has still not exceeded thirty years. After a period with his hands in the wood, he decided to paste them following the footsteps of a cook and winemaker father, with noteworthy experiences, including a period under the three stars of Norbert Niederkofler. From him he learns above all the respect for local products, as can be seen in his creation “Il bosco nel piatto”, a carpaccio of kohlrabi with pear cheese curd, roasted chanterelles, blueberries and hot speck froth with cheese from pera, which "best represents our Renon plateau," says Stephan. We also find the same principle in the beverage, with an interesting selection of apple juices, the undisputed queen of local production (he also produces fruit); and with a sophisticated wine cellar of Alto Adige wines, which, obviously, given the origins, could not miss. But to get to know and better understand his creativity, treat yourself to one Gourmet Week, or a thematic offer to discover local products, or even a Midweek Short Gourmet, with four nights and various tastings.

Steaks in carbonated water

Have you ever tried matured meat in carbonated water? This is the revolution undertaken by Thomas Mair at the Meatery, in Val Pusteria, today registered with the brand Aged Beef water. Thomas was looking for new techniques for the classic maturation and found them by resting the beef cuts for four weeks in sparkling mineral water; but beware, not just any water, but a choice with care and with the right concentration of carbonic acid. The result? A unique, tasty and very juicy meat, with a slightly mineral flavor and an incredibly tender consistency, like a fillet. You can buy it at the counter, or taste (by appointment only) sitting at the convivial table of the Meatingpoint; as an alternative there is also the proposal of the mountaineer's snack, that is a gourmet version of the packed lunch inside an excursion backpack.

Eating in a labyrinth, between historic vineyards and esoteric gardens

On the South Tyrolean Wine Route, one of the oldest there is, there is also Count Franz Graf von Pfeil. Owner of the Kränzelhof Estate, complete with a wine cellar, 5 hectares of orchards and vineyards, castle and restaurant, offers a tasting of its wines paired with traditional Italian dishes, always prepared starting from organic raw materials and sometimes served on the table by the chefs themselves, like the farfalle with robiola with herbs and chanterelles. To try is Farnatzer, which ennobles an underrated wine like Schiava in an excellent way, giving one of the best interpretations. But not only: after a satisfying taste, it will be time to let yourself be enchanted by its labyrinth garden, a truly enchanting place, inspired by astral symbolism.

Pizza

At Tenuta J. Hofstätter not only wine, but also pizza, thanks to the precious cook and sommelier Marzia Buzzanca. It was she, in fact, who valued the second pizza using the techniques of haute cuisine: a careful selection of organic flours and long leavening dough, to then unhinge the classic combination with beer and surprise us with a perfect accompaniment to the wines of the cellar. But it does not end here: the estate also has another restaurant, the Alte Post, where chef Arno Baldo will amaze you with innovative dishes, often with ingredients grown by him in the adjacent vegetable garden, such as the vegetable julienne and the turnip in the stuffed veal tip with lentil vinaigrette. Well done!