Tag: Lombardia

Andrea Casali and Davide Caranchini, four-handed dialogues in the kitchen – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

Andrea Casali and Davide Caranchini, four-handed dialogues in the kitchen


Alert to all fine dining enthusiasts: the new format Dialogues inaugurated last April 30th by the chefs Andrea Casali (Kitchen *) e Davide Caranchini (Matter *) on Lake Como is simply exceptional. If four-handed dinner isn’t enough, Dialogues It’s the upgrade we deserve. This time, it’s not about cooking your best dishes in the company of an equally talented colleague, no. Dialogues it is the perfect contamination of the cuisine of two chefs who, taking inspiration from each other, create an exclusive menu one shot – the maximum of quiet luxurywhich is so suitable for the Como area.

In this debut, the cuisine of the protagonist chefs is mutually pulled, kneaded, manipulated, mixed, revisited, invented, until it is upset. In fact, everyone reworks a dish signature on the other: on the one hand Andrea Casali and his gourmet gastronomy with roots firmly rooted in tradition, on the other Davide Caranchini and his (never lost) research into plant-based sustainability. Casali tames Caranchini’s experiments, smooths out the edges and makes the rupture more understandable. Caranchini pushes Casali’s dishes out of their comfort zone, increases the kaleidoscope of flavors (especially the acidity) and thickens the techniques: the result is definitely a remarkable experience.

The idea disruptive was born precisely from Casali and Caranchini, when last autumn they found themselves cooking together with other starred chefs for an event held in Villa Erba and organized by the Stanza Blu association. The desire behind this unique experiment is the desire to meet in the kitchen, the ideal place for them to express themselves in an open dialogue through each other’s dishes. Starred chefs under 35, Casali and Caranchini start from a common basis of great respect for raw materials and a strong passion for vegetables. From here, they identified their signature dishes and reinterpreted them freehand in a game of creativity and contamination, attempt after attempt until a noteworthy result – worth remembering given that these are dishes served for the first time and not replicable.

The Dialogue menu #1

After the chefs’ welcome, the complete menu is 8 courseswhich takes the palate to an amusement park of elegant, delicious and interesting, and above all surprising, taste experiences. First courses that become desserts, second courses that are suitable as an opening, in short, a deck of cards reshuffled for new pokers of flavours. Any examples? Imagine it Mallard oyster and cashew stew by Davide Caranchini transformed into a fresh appetizer. In this case, Casali cooked the mallard marinated in salt, sugar and spices including sage and bay leaves, then washed and rinsed to be chopped into the form of tartare. Instead of the oyster, in its place only the flavor is found thanks to the leaves of a particular Canadian plant. The cashews were pureed and a BBQ sauce of mallard legs, honey and green apple was added.

5 places to grill in Milan and surrounding areas: top equipped areas – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay


Parks, oases, farmhouses, green and sunny expanses: they are there 5 places to grill in Milan and surrounding areas where you can rent spaces equipped for barbecues together. The choice is varied: from just renting the pitches to the possibility of having all the equipment in use, up to the purchase of excellent meats. An outdoor barbecue is the perfect idea to face a weekend in the city, surrounded by greenery, like a small holiday!

Do you want some ideas for putting something original on the grills? There are not only sausages and salamis even if they are undoubtedly great classics that are difficult to give up. However, if you also want to try something different, read our article Grilling not just meat: fish, vegetables and fruit in 50 ideas.

5 places to grill in Milan and surrounding areas

The Agrigriglia with shop in Cascina Reina

Photo: Cascina Reina website.

In the province of Bergamo, but ¾ of an hour from Milan, Cascina Reina offers its customers real gazebos equipped for organizing great barbecues. In addition to the names of the seven dwarfs (for the few who can remember them all!) the gazebos bear names that recall the fairy tale of Snow White and have a cost that varies from €8 to €12 per person.

A free tasting is always available where you can taste cured meats, sip good wine and drink a coffee.

The price also includes the rental (with deposit) of some tools such as tongs, baking tray, meat box and unlimited wood. The use of the gazebos is subject to the purchase of meat on site; Cascina Reina is in fact an agricultural shop selling white meat, pork, beef and cheese.

Caprini di Lombardia, gourmand specialties – Italian Cuisine

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In the mountains of Lombardy, in spring, they are born excellent cheeses goats known above all by the great connoisseurs. The result of a centuries-old tradition, these specialties are particularly interesting because they make use of the milk of breeds raised only in the Lombard valleys with a remarkable diversification of pastures and nutrition, which gives a precise shade of taste and a peculiar character to each cheese. To get to know the panorama of the Lombard goats, you can start from the northernmost valleys of the Varese area that go towards the border with Switzerland.

The fomaggella of Luinese
We are in the hinterland of Luino and on the Lombard shore of Lake Maggiore, the land of production of the Formaggella del Luinese, the only Italian goat cheese exclusively to boast the Dop. It is a product with raw milk, semi-hard paste and white in color, with a delicate flavor that intensifies as the seasoning is lengthened; its production specification provides that the weight varies from 700 to 900 grams and is aged for at least 20 days. Many farms that produce the Formaggella del Luinese have begun to include a particular breed of native goat in the flock, the Verzaschese, characterized by a short, shiny black coat and 30 cm long horns. Among these is Il Vallone by Mattia Crivelli, one of his more than convinced supporters. "Verzaschesi goats are dominant in the flock: they are rustic animals that love to go out to pasture and incite the goats of the other breeds, more accustomed to the sheepfold, to do the same, just as required by the Formaggella specification", says Crivelli In fact, the uniqueness of many animal breeds often correspond to particular food products and today more than ever, protecting one corresponds to enhancing the other. Sondrio and Bergamo also have their own goat star. Orobica breed, widespread in the Orobie Park, which includes the Brembana Valley, and in Valtellina. This precious animal can be recognized for its long, ash gray and beige coat and powerful horns. There is also an association that has the aim of enhancing and protecting its milk and meat.

La Roviola and Matüscin
182601Ferdinando Quarteroni, founder of the Ferdy Farmhouse in the 1980s (pictured), explains that "there were once essentially three Orobica goat cheeses that were produced in the Brembana Valley and are the same that we offer today in our farmhouse: the Roviola, a soft cheese, i Formagit, small and flowery rind, and above all the Matüscin, which is produced only with the summer milk scented with herbs of the season. In addition, the ability of this goat to graze in alpine areas, inaccessible and difficult to reach, allows you to take advantage of unused hectares of pasture and keep the mountain clean ". Alfio Sassella, who with his wife Sonia Marioli, establishes the Cavizzola mountain pasture in the upper Val Brembana, is also certain. "The Orobica goat chases flowers and buds, its milk is a sort of distillate", he explains, "we use it in quantities of about 20% in the historic Rebel, a long-aged cheese, to be consumed between 3 and 6 years ".

Fatulì and Mascarpin
Val Saviore, a perpendicular of Val Camonica, in Bresciano, is also home to fine dairy products: Fatulì and Mascarpin. The Fatulì is a smoked cheese with green juniper branches, the Mascarpin it is a ricotta which is stored for a few days in special bags and sometimes smoked. Their production is closely linked to the goat Bionda dell'Adamello which, in the members of the Maffeis family, has found the most convinced supporters. Arturo, the pater familias speaks: "This valley has been displacing in the post-war period, leaving uncultivated areas, empty huts and a goat breed at the mercy of itself, as few families have continued their agricultural and dairy activities". Fortunately, when the spotlight turned on biodiversity, we began to want to get to know the Bionda dell'Adamello better, a medium-length fawn-haired goat, whose attitude is to live in a semi-wild state, a characteristic that contributes to obtain a particularly fragrant milk.

Our choices
Il Vallone farm
Via Molino Galli 4, Cuveglio (Va) tel. 347 9712918
It produces the Formaggella del Luinese Dop with Verzaschesi goat milk.
Caprivalcuvia company
Via San Pietro 12, Rancio Valcuvia (Va), tel. 338 1017119
Its owner is responsible for the recognition of the Dop of the Formaggella del Luinese.
Ferdy farmhouse
Location Fienili, Lenna (Bg) tel. 0345 82235 agriturismoferdy.com
Production of historic goats from the Brembana Valley.
Sonia Marioli farm
via Clemente Valenti 16, Talamona (So), tel. 339 8478035
Renowned for the legendary rebel historian.
Maffeis company,
Via Pozzuolo 1 Cevo (Bs), tel. 0364 634634659
In Val Saviore it produces Fatulì and Mascarpin.

Riccardo Lagorio
foto Mountain Community of the Verbano Valleys and Agriturismo Ferdy
on Sale & Pepe of May 2020

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