Tag: Milan

10 places in Milan to eat the real cassoeula – Italian Cuisine


For Lombard gourmets, Milanese in particular, it is the cult dish of the winter – but not only. Here's where to taste that addictive mix of cabbage and 'poor' pork cuts

The time is right for Cassoeula, the symbolic dish of the Lombard popular tradition. The one whose origins are essentially unknown (as for three quarters of the regional recipes, moreover) but that conquers only to hear that greedy, engaging and vaguely French pronunciation. In fact, it is not clear why someone attempted the Italianization, calling it a trowel or trowel. Lassa is, just as it makes no sense to try to understand whether it is the progressive simplification of a 'pruning' that reached the region through the Spanish domination or the downsizing of a dish of Baroque cuisine, containing more refined pork meat which is the absolute protagonist together with cabbage. Having said that, as often happens, the current version (with the first evidence at the beginning of the 1900s) is only the synthesis of the two, the dish is clearly linked to the rituality of the popular cult of Sant’Antonio Abate, celebrated on January 17, a date that marked the end of the slaughtering period. But we like the legend of the people much more: it is said that to ferry it to Milan was a young Spanish soldier who fell in love with a Milanese cook, to whom he taught how to prepare it. Eventually conquering it, the legend says.

We need verzini

The mystery of the origin of the name is also amusing: it probably derives from the spoon with which it is mixed (cassœu) or from the pot with which it is prepared (casserole). The famous Cassoulet of the Languedoc has nothing to do, except the pork which, together with the others, ends up in the bean ragout at the base of the recipe. If anything, there is another explanation for the name Cassoeula: it is known that, by tradition, the dish was prepared by construction site workers once they arrived at the roof. From here the trowel – we hope very clean or new – to mix it during cooking. As mentioned, the two poles of the dish (single, mind you) are the cabbage which for Lombard gourmets "must make the drop, so that it disintegrates during cooking " that is practically frozen and the poor parts of the pig. The only nobles, if you like, are the ribs. Then space for ear, rind, foot, pigtail, little face, verzini. The last ones deserve two more lines: they are classic fresh pork sausages which take their name from their historical combination with cabbage, mainly in the cassoeula. But they are also good on their own.

There is also the light version

Returning to the concept of non-coding of recipes, there is the classic Milanese one – where we continue to discuss whether it takes a touch of tomato or not – but passing from one Lombard province to another, more or less soupy variants are encountered, with the addition of goose meat, vegetables prepared in a different way. The important thing is that they are as good as those of the places in our selection, which respect the ancient rules. Without giving in to the temptation of light Cassoeula: it is legitimate to remove some 'heavy' cuts of meat or more simply – as many do – degrease the rind. But having started out as a poor and fat dish, at least once you have to try the original version. That of our soldier, in short, who made the fortune of the cook.

10 places in Milan to eat cassoeula

Milanese Trattoria

In the heart of the 'five streets', the most evocative pedestrian area of ​​the city. Encyclopedic menu with all the Milanese and Lombard specialties (but not only). The cassoeula is always on the menu, the environment is welcoming with customers that change between lunch and dinner. Beautiful cellar.

Al Matarel

Elide Moretti, who is celebrating her 60th birthday in the kitchen this year, is the most famous interpreter of the cuisine under the Madonnina: Milan liked a lot to drink and is still liked by loyalists and neophytes. For historical dishes, robust portions and an unchanging environment.

Head

Contemporary trattoria, in the "Old Milan" style and a menu open to Italy which, however, offers a broad view of the Milanese tradition. Cassoeula is the protagonist in the cold season, in a variant that is respectful of the original ingredients but lightened.

Antica Trattoria Galeria

It is furnished like an old farmhouse: wood, bricks, vintage items. 'Rough' but highly satisfying Lombard cuisine, starting with the cassoeula with regular polenta. In the summer, the tables outside on a patio can be enjoyed.

Award-winning Trattoria Arlati

Much loved by show business people, it is the home of the 'Confraternita della cassoeula' who celebrate the dish accompanying it with good music and great bottles. You can breathe the history of the city, not surprisingly in the 2006 was awarded the Ambrogino D'Oro

Trattoria Masuelli San Marco

The seasonal menu includes cassoeula, but only on Thursday or Friday, and by reservation. You can choose between the pork or goose version. The stone-ground ottofile corn polenta is a must. The venue celebrated its centenary in 2021.

Antica Trattoria della Pesa

Open since 1880, it also had the future Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh coming from Paris in the kitchen. Today, in a more elegant environment than in the past, it continues in the wake of the Milanese-Lombard tradition with the entire repertoire, including the cassoeula.

Al Garghet

Intimate atmosphere, soft lights, fireplace and traditional dishes: the essential elements of an 'out of town' in the city, always popular. Among the proposals on the menu, the cassoeula is certainly one of the most popular together with the 'uregia d'elefant' cutlet.

Trattoria La Pesa 1902

At the end of the 90s, this restaurant in the San Siro district had the merit of relaunching – especially among the youngest – Milanese cuisine. Thirty years later, he continues his work in defense of tradition. The cassoeula is always on paper, along with other classics.

Osteria dei Malnat

As he said "the best rule is not to follow the rule". This is why in the review it makes sense to point out the 'revisited' cassoeula of this place, ten minutes from the Meazza Stadium: in practice it is a cabbage and pork stew, with sausage and dark ribs. Not bad.

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Uovodiseppia: Pino Cuttaia arrives in Milan with his mother's kitchen – Italian Cuisine

Uovodiseppia: Pino Cuttaia arrives in Milan with his mother's kitchen


The Sicily of the people, the new recipes, the pleasure of surprising without style exercises: the great chef of La Madia 'signs' the bistro of the refined Ariosto Social Club. To tell the Milanese and travelers about his great cuisine of the past

«Once upon a time people used to come to Milan to look for work. Today a Sicilian like me comes to communicate his own culture, to tell the roots of a people rich in values, traditions and contradictions. As an ambassador. Starting from seasonality, from a domestic gesture . Pino Cuttaia has landed in Milan and is an enrichment for the Italian capital of food: he will not leave The Sideboard, the Michelin two-starred in his Licata, from where – with courage and effort – he built a second (successful) life after the first one that saw him as a worker on the assembly line in Turin. The place is called Uovodiseppia, exactly like its most iconic dish and like the pantry-laboratory not far from the restaurant in Sicily. But under the Madonnina, we go much further: from breakfast to dinner, every moment of the day will be good to taste the proposals studied by Cuttaia. "I will build an alchemy between my Sicily and Northern Italy, some recipes will have inspirations, techniques or ingredients from the North, such as saffron risotto with mullet and fennel ragout which, in the end, is nothing more than a decomposed arancina "says chef Cuttaia.

Practically in the center

He has chosen a decidedly particular place such asAriosto Social Club, at 22 of a beautiful Milanese street, four metro stops from the Duomo. "It is a great pride for me, as a Sicilian, to be able to count on a chef of the caliber of Pino Cuttaia. His arrival represents an important step in completing the new project". To speak is Emanuele Vitrano Catania, dynamic entrepreneur of Palermo origins for years operating in the world ofhotellerie Milan with the Brera Hotels Group. Together with the café-bistro, the structure hosts twenty luxury apartments for short-term rentals, furnished with Italian design pieces that can be purchased by guests; a lounge with kitchen and terrace for private events; a state-of-the-art gym with highly specialized personal trainers and tailor-made courses, one boutique with original clothes, objects and accessories by Italian artisans (mostly women) personally selected by the writer and owner of the store Valeria Benatti. For those staying at the Ariosto Social Club, an extra pampering: the possibility of having the dishes served by the kitchen team directly in the privacy of their own apartment. Not bad, really.

Two recipes for Milan

Let's go back to Cuttaia. In the bistro which is open all week (from 12 to 14 and from 19 to 23.30) will serve a menu with its classics. We mention the Arancina of rice with mullet ragu and wild fennel (in the opening photo), the Macco di fave with cuttlefish dumplings, the Smoked cod with pine cone, the Cornucopia of cannoli wafer with Cammarata ricotta … But it has also thought of two unpublished dishes, in homage to the city that awaits him curiously. The first is it Spaghetti "Milanese style" with onion mollication: few people know that it is part of the Sicilian tradition, that is a spaghetti based on wild fennel that goes back to pasta with sardines. "When there was no fish, people used to ask" how do you make pasta today? And the answer was "Milanese style" to evoke the fact that there is no sea in Milan. In this dish I added anchovies and a little masculino, a smaller anchovy, referring to the Catania variant. There is also the toasted bread, which is toasted and represents the cheese of the poor, "explains the Licata chef.

Poetry and simplicity

The second is theEgg cutlet, a daily food that dresses up as a party. «The cutlet is the most typical and well-known dish of the Milanese tradition and I could not neglect it. In the mother's kitchen, the egg, a daily ingredient, dressed up for a party when it was breaded like a cutlet with breadcrumbs, garlic and parsley. Thus, the same aromas of the meat were released from cooking, even if it is not, making you feel the atmosphere of Sunday "says Cuttaia. Two recipes in which there is the essence of the two-star chef, made up of poetry and simple ingredients, often basic but that he knows how to interpret like few others in Italy. "There is only one ingredient that I cannot do without and that is memory" he tells us for the umpteenth time. And if you look at him perplexed, thinking that after all it is almost impossible not to find chefs without a minimum of memory, he focuses his thoughts more on a smile of his "It's a ballast if you don't compare yourself, but when you do it with the contemporary you draw energy from it: you travel and come back to have new eyes with which to look at the landscape and your ingredients in a different way. Using perhaps the same but with different gestures, the innovation is in the recovery of the gesture ". This is why, while enjoying the dishes (re) tasted in Milan, we must once again thank – as well as the author of the dishes – the mother and grandmother of Pino Cuttaia.

Diwali in Milan: this is how people celebrate at Cittamani – Italian Cuisine

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Cittamani tells about India and its Festival of Lights, with the wishes of a chef who straddles two cultures




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Today also in Milan the Indian Christmas is celebrated, Diwali. Indian chef Ritu Dalmia tells us about some dishes she prepared to celebrate him in her restaurant, the Cittamani in Milan.
Cittamani
is the female figure of the Buddha. In Milan it is also the restaurant opened in 2017 by the Indian chef Ritu Dalmia, author of cookbooks, famous TV face with dedicated programs and well-known entrepreneur in her country, with eight places that are part of the Diva Restaurants group, restaurants inspired … Italy, because this extraordinary chef is in love with our cuisine, to the point that one of her television broadcasts in her homeland is called Italian Khana. Passionate about the cuisines of the world, ambassador of the excellence of gastronomy and Italian products in India, Ritu Dalmia – who defines herself as a food teller, a storyteller of Indian food – today divides her time between her motherland and our Peninsula, where in addition to Cittamani she opened, with Viviana Varese and also in Milan, Spica, ethnic cuisine from all over the world.

Ritu Dalmia
192565 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/11/diwali-ritu-dalmia-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 245 "style =" float: left; "height =" 368Stuck in India for months with the advent of the pandemic, Ritu devoted herself to researching and studying ingredients she didn't know much about, making them her own and incorporating them into her dishes, with excellent results. "At the time, I knew and used what I now consider a limited number of spicesExplains Ritu«Now I can infuse a true symphony of flavors into my recipes". A forced break that has fortunately transformed into personal and professional growth, an evolution of tastes and colors that today characterizes Cittamani's dishes, which after a long period of delivery only has reopened its doors in Brera, in Piazza Mirabello.

Cittamani is confirmed as a place of comfort, ideal for eating but also chatting, for having a drink, for discovering a new flavor, for sharing a culinary experience with a friend. To celebrate, like today.

Diwali or Festival of Lights
Every autumn, India lights up to celebrate one of its most significant and heartfelt holidays, the Diwali, or Festival of Lights. On this occasion, houses, courtyards, gardens and roofs are illuminated by the light of candles and traditional lamps called diya, to celebrate the victory of Light over Darkness, of Good over Evil. A party that also celebrates health and well-being, a wish for economic prosperity. On November 4th, chef Ritu Dalmia presents a special menu at the Festival of Lights, with dishes like the Badam ka halwa (his favorite dessert) or the Kheer. The chef gives us both the recipe.

Badam ka halwa
192560 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/11/Badam-ka-halwa-diwali-@salepepe.jpeg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Ingredients for 3-4 people:
200 g of almonds – 200 ml of milk – 200 g of sugar – 100 ml of ghee (clarified butter) – 5 strands of saffron, soaked in 2 tablespoons of water – 4 pods of cardamom, crushed in a pestle and mortar, discarded the peel – 100 ml of water – Flaked almonds for decoration – 20 ml of ghee to add at the end

Method
1) To do the day before: soak the almonds in water overnight.
2) The next day, remove the peel, set aside some almonds for decoration. Grind the almonds with half the milk to form a smooth paste.
3) Subsequently dissolve the ghee in a saucepan. Add the water and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and add the sugar, until it dissolves completely.
4) Then, turn the heat back on over low heat, add the almond paste and balanced with cardamom milk and saffron. Keep stirring over medium heat.
5) You will see thehalwa begin to thicken, on the one hand it will dry out and begin to crack. Continue to mix for about 15-20 minutesuntil it turns a nice brown color. Add the ghee, mix well and serve hot with the almond flakes.

Kheer
192561 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/11/kheer-diwali-@salepepe.jpeg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Ingredients for 5-6 people:
80 g of white rice – 1l of semi-skimmed milk – 100g of white sugar – 10g of almonds – 10g of raisins – 10g of unsalted pistachios – 10g of peanuts – 10g of ghee ghee) – 5g of green cardamom – Saffron in pistils for decoration

Method
1) Soak the rice in a bowl with water for 2-3 hours.
2) In another pot, bring to a boil the milk, add the cardamom and rice, and cook over low heat until the rice absorbs 3/4 of the milk, then remove the cardamom.
3) Mix frequently so that the rice does not stick to the bottom.
4) Meanwhile, in another pan, caramelized dried fruit with ghee.
5) At this point, add the rice, sugar and to the pan stir for 5 minutes. Then add half of the dried fruit and mix for another 5 minutes.
6) Remove from heat e let cool. When it's cold, decorated with the rest of the caramelized dried fruit and the saffron in pistils. To be served cold.

November 2021
Francesca Tagliabue

Posted on 04/11/2021

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