Tag: star

who took the star – Italian Cuisine


Surprise in Piacenza: the Tuscan chef enters the tri-star Olympus, now eleven to eleven chefs. Donato Ascani (Glam) and Michelangelo Mammoliti (La Madernassa) new steakhouses. Gianfranco Vissani descends to a star and attacks the guide

Enrico Bartolini is the new Italian tristellato. The Michelin 2020 guide, presented at the Piacenza Municipal Theater, awarded three stars to its restaurant within the Mudec in Milan. The number of chefs has thus risen to 11 with the highest recognition by the “Rossa” in our country. In the 65th edition of the guide, directed in Italy by Sergio Lovrinovich and internationally by Gwendal Poullennec, there are 30 new entries, while the two have risen by two units: the Venetian Glam by Donato Ascani (which is part of the Bartolini galaxy, arrived to eight stars!) and the Piedmontese Madernassa a Guarene, led by Michelangelo Mammoliti. Thus, the number of star-rated restaurants rises to 374: 328 single stars, 35 double-starred and 11 tristellated.

Mario Capitaneo, Enrico Bartolini, Remo Capitaneo (photo Paolo-Chiodini).
Mario Capitaneo, Enrico Bartolini, Remo Capitaneo (photo Paolo Chiodini).

Regions and provinces

Lombardy is the most starry region, with 6 new features: 62 restaurants (3 3-star, 5 2-star 54 1-star). Piedmont, with 4 new features, is always in second place with 46 restaurants (1 3-star 4 2-star 41 1-star), while Campania, with 6 new features, ranks third on the podium, with 44 restaurants, (6 2 stars 38 1 star). Next, Tuscany, with 6 new products, for a total of 40 restaurants (1 3-star 4 2-star 35 1-star) and, finally, Veneto, at 37, with two new features (1 3-star 4 2-star 32 1 star). Among the provinces, Naples is always at the top with 26 restaurants (6 2 star 20 1 star), Rome in second position with 24 (1 3 star 1 2 star 22 1 star). Milan is followed by 20 restaurants, whose vitality in many fields today finally sees its gastronomic scene thanks to the new three star (1 3 star 3 2 star 16 1 star), Bolzano with 19 (1 3 star 4 2 star 14 1 stella), Cuneo at 18 (1 3 stars 2 2 stars 15 1 star).

Esposito protagonist

Four special prizes: the Michelin Mentor Chef 2020, by Eberhard, went to Gennaro Esposito (Torre del Saracino in Vico Equense), which also took away the satisfaction of seeing starred IT in Milan, the place where he supervises the kitchen. The Young Michelin Chef 2020, by Lavazza, was won by another newcomer, Davide Puleio (L'Alchimia in Milan), while the 2020 Michelin Room Service, By Coppini, went to Sara Orlando (Locanda di Orta, Orta San Giulio) and the Passion for Wine Michelin 2020, By Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino, in Rino Billia (Le Petit Restaurant, Cogne). Among the disappointed, in addition to those who missed the second star (such as Carlo Cracco and Riccardo Camanini), Gianfranco Vissani who descended to one with Casa Vissani in Baschi. "But at this point they could take away both, right? The Michelin is an Italian shame, a commercial argument only. Gualtiero Marchesi was right: but from whom are we judged? , The first comment by the Umbrian chef.

We challenge a star chef to make a gourmet dinner on a low budget – Italian Cuisine


When we think of a starred kitchen we think of luxury, precious and hard to find products. Caviar, Fois Gras, Champagne, intense flavors for a few very few.
But is it really so? What makes a dish truly unique? Above all: you can make one gourmet dinner with a budget of 30 euros?

We launched this challenge to a great chef of our country,Tommaso Arrigoni, restaurant owner Innocent Evasions in Milan, always in search of taste, environment and high quality service and holder of the coveted Michelin star. Under Tommaso's suggestion, we have made a varied expense with easily available goods that we can all find in supermarkets. Challenge accepted and successfully overcome! We have witnessed the metamorphosis of the poorest products.
We started with a soup of bread, buffalo and spring onion with egg yolk and summer truffle, with an intense but at the same time very delicate taste, to end with a very crunchy crumble of caramelized bread crust with strawberries and goat yogurt. An explosion of taste and consistency. In the chef's kitchen we were immediately enveloped by heady scents.
His mastery has made each movement a hypnotic dance and minimal and elegant settings thanks to the use of the brand's products Sambonet, have transformed simplicity into beauty and wonder for eyes and palate.

In fact, the chef says «cutlery is, like the dish, a fundamental element in the experience of a starry dinner. They must be beautiful, iconic but above all comfortable to use and functional. Personally I prefer the silver ones with a modern shape and I am very careful that the size is proportionate to the serving dish. In addition to this I pay much attention to detail, I think it is a fundamental element in a culinary experience where everything is taken care of in detail, from the dishes, to the setting, to the lights up to the engraving of the Michelin star on the cutlery .

But now just talk.
Didn't you get your mouth watering?

Content created by Condé Nast Social Academy with the support of Sambonet.

Text by: Francesca Ferraiola @francescaferraiola Production: Alessia Caliendo @alessiacaliendo Photo by: Gaetano Alfano @ gaetanoalfano80 Assistant: Lucia Radaelli

Thanks to star chef Tommaso Arrigoni di Innocenti Evasioni @arrigonitom @innocenti_evasioni

La Fiorida, the first (and only) agriturismo with a Michelin star – Italian Cuisine


Farmhouse, cheese factory, farm shop, large tables and starred restaurant. At La Fiorida the Valtellina tradition is tasted in a sandwich or in a tasting menu, without betraying the zero km. To eat well in Valtellina, dishes like taroz. Classic or revisited? Both

La Fiorida is located in Valtellina in the valley floor, where the Orobie Alps meet with the Rhaetian Alps one step away from Lake Como. Accessible by car, from the SS 38 to Rogolo or even by bike along the Sentiero Valtellina. The company has 200 Bruna Alpina cows, 250 pigs and 80 goats. Milk and meat are processed in the dairy and slaughterhouse inside the company, used in the two restaurants and sold in the large company store. You work at closed loop and short chain, respecting the environment and animals. It has cozy wooden rooms, the Quattro Stagioni restaurant with four rooms, conference rooms and a wellness center. The dairy produces fresh and mature cheeses, both from raw and cooked milk. But the only case of its kind, this agriturismo also has a gourmet restaurant, baptized in Valtellina dialect La Preséf (The manger). In the kitchen there is Gianni Tarabini, Valtellinese, and from 2013 shines a Michelin star.

Eat from 5 to 110 €

La Fiorida is a unique place, because you can eat a sandwich, a cheese board (€ 12 or € 17.50), an ice cream in front of the fireplace in the farm shop for a few euros, order a la carte in the restaurant or rely on a path of the tradition for € 45. The lunch of Sunday all-inclusive costs € 37, with a set menu, or dinner at the starred restaurant, even with tasting menu for € 110. The ingredients are all self-produced, absolute quality, where you sit is more a matter of personal taste or occasion than quality.

The chef Gianni Tarabini

Born between these valleys and with the dynamics of the mountain already in the blood, it is the right man at the right time. At the reins of the kitchen of La Fiorida that begins to attend the kitchen of Massimo Bottura during "culinary excursions" outside the Valtellina area. Go home with ideas like a review of the five consistencies and maturing of Parmigiano Reggiano in a Veltellinese version with a variation of Casera: Casera 084 – Consistencies and temperatures of Valtellina Casera DOP, seasonal jam. Today serves the Taroz and its evolution, with potatoes, Valtellina Casera DOP, green beans, onion and sage. How do you revisit a traditional dish? "It's easier than you might think. These products are mine, you play with an ingredient you know, with recipes you've done well a thousand times and wrong a thousand times. When you know all the nuances, it's easy. A feature of our kitchen is that we put two or three ingredients, but of high quality. We are not vain but confident in the raw materials and despite this local cuisine, all butter and bitto cheese, we make a light cuisine .

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The taroz, classic or 2.0

The taroz it is a typical dish of the Valtellina that could be defined as: a rich, very rich potato mashed with cheese, bacon and other vegetables. At least today it is a rich dish: once it was a way to put together the dinner with the available vegetables and some scrap. It is a poor dish and its goodness is here due to the quality of the raw materials: potatoes, butter, cheese. Strictly Valtellina Casera DOP. The name taroz derives from the tool used to cream vegetables with butter or cheese (in dialect the operation is called "tarare", from which also the "polenta taragna"). «At the starred restaurant we use the same raw materials as in the other restaurant, but work with different techniques, for a new interpretation and new consistencies. For the taroz we cook the potatoes in a saucepan with water saturated with salt, to keep all your tastes. Then peel, are roughly broken and make a base with a pasta bowl. Green beans become a gourmet sponge, pancetta is a crispy waffle, sage is a powder. To complete, the dish is finished with a cheese fondue . For the classic version? "If the potatoes are good, the cheese is good, the butter is good and you are not in a hurry, the dish is good".

The classic taroz recipe

Ingredients for 4 people

400 g of potatoes
300 g of green beans
220 g of Valtellina Casera PDO cheese 180 g of butter
150g Nostrana bacon stretched
1 onion
Salt and pepper and common sage q.b.

Method

Boil the potatoes in lightly salted water 10 minutes after cooking them, add the fresh green beans, while preparing the lash with the butter, onion and bacon, finally add the sage. Everything must be beautiful "lashed".
Drain the potatoes and green beans from the water, coarsely mash them, add salt, pepper, bitto or casera, cover with a lid, let stand for a couple of minutes and add the nice hot whisk, mix well and serve

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