You feel good on the Romagna coast. And you eat well, provided you avoid tourist traps. But it is easier to find good typical dishes, pointing inwards. Here are the unmissable places
Let's be clear: on the Romagna coast you are very well. The welcome is always warm, the beaches are the top of the peninsula, the restaurant offers everything and more. And knowing how to choose, you can take satisfaction even at the highest levels. Cesenatico has a Michelin starred like that Magnolia and the historic La Buca while Rimini responds with Guido – a rare case, because it has conquered Stella by actually working on the beach – and the revelation Abocar Due Cucine. Then there is the Plateau at Pennabilli, which is on the border with the Marche on the Apennines. But there are also on the coast excellent taverns such as La Marianna and the Osteria de Borg (Rimini), Sirocco (Bellaria), Al Deserto and Emilia (Cervia), Osteria dei Murè (Cattolica) and the famous Osteria del Gran Fritto of the Bartolini family in Cesenatico. Without forgetting that in this land the rite of piadina is celebrated, one of the most beloved Italian street foods: here there are real masterpieces.
First courses and lots of meat
As we have seen, good places are not lacking. However, though … if you ask a romagnolo doc where he goes to eat, especially in summer, will direct you inland: at 15, 30, maximum 40 minutes from the coast. Because there is the (almost) non-touristy Romagna, which at still competitive prices – and in any case not at the level of those on the Riviera – puts the best table on the table, starting from cold cuts and cheeses (ah, the squacquerone…), obviously focusing on the territory. Which means nothing or very little fish, but lots of meat (mutton, rabbit, chicken, sausages) and a terrific series of first courses: strozzapreti, tagliatelle, tortelli, ravioli, garganelli, passatelli in broth or dry … served in the bread basket while Albana, Trebbiano and Sangiovese reign supreme in drinking. Did you have an appetite? Then mark these ten places that make you happy.
Ristorante dei Cantoni – Longiano
For 30 years in the center of one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. We start with the palette of mixed tastings – even original – with piadina. All the fresh pasta of the former is handmade: among the specialties passatelli in brodo and nests of crepes au gratin with fondue of soft cheeses. Follow the proposals of Romagna meat such as the blackberry medallion with pancetta and bay leaf or the pork fillet. Homemade desserts, a wine cellar attentive to the territory.
Trattoria Da Savino – Coriano
Here the fish is also staged on a fixed day with a dedicated menu and another based only on cod. It is a Spartan trattoria, but of substance, always crowded even thanks to the quality / price ratio. If the tagliatelle with meat sauce are the main dish, they also deserve the fried sardines, the pumpkin ravioli with chicken liver sauce, sausage and chickpeas, the cuttlefish with beans (De.Co. dish of the town), the rabbit in porchetta and tripe.
Trattoria del Passatore – Santarcangelo di Romagna
Located in the historic center, a few steps from the characteristic village and the tuff caves, since 1998 it has dedicated itself to the rediscovery and enhancement of recipes of the past such as tripe, pasta and beans, chicken with saucepan, rabbit alla cacciatora, cod stewed. Great space for grilling, with meat from the Valmarecchia area. But the whole menu is full of local products, the result of great research. Try the homemade desserts.
Maloura – Savignano sul Rubicone
The owners call it "agriosteria di campagna": it is located within a farm with 110 years of activity and that in recent years has totally turned to nature. Products that are also sold on the Rimini market or end up in the kitchen for a simple and tasty menu, in search of true tradition. One of the cult dishes is curzul (thick tagliolino) with Romagna scallion, chopped sausage and violina pumpkin.
Il Matto – Sala di Cesenatico
An authentic trattoria, a few km from the beaches of Cesenatico, which is very popular for its rustic and informal mix, but above all for its typical cuisine. The strong point is represented by the main courses exclusively of meat: in addition to the grilled mixed meats there are recipes from the rural tradition such as the salmì pigeon, the baked or roast rabbit and the Romagna-style rooster. Curiosity: bread is banned, only piadina is served.
Trattoria Renzi – Santarcangelo di Romagna
An institution of the town, run by the Renzi family for three generations: retro furnishings and period photos testify that it has always been cooked in defense of tradition. The menu is laced but not disappointing: sliced strictly cut with a knife, the legendary tagliatelle with meat sauce, grilled meats, roast meat (by reservation only), tripe and cod on Thursdays. Waves of piadina and the donut of the house to close well.
La Sangiovesa – Santarcangelo di Romagna
It is a restaurant and tavern, inside the eighteenth-century Palazzo Nadian, all well-kept and well-lit niches and small rooms. Here the azdores pull and bake piadine in view, while in the kitchen they prepare appetizers rich in selected products and tasty dishes such as rosole with cockerel and stridoli ragù, ricotta ravioli, pullet alla cacciatora. Large cellar and the possibility of two tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian.
Trattoria dell'Autista – Savignano sul Rubicone
Faithful to the concept that truckers eat well and abundantly, in this place – founded in 1932 – one is never disappointed by the quality and the portions. Do not miss the piadina with cured meats and cheeses as an appetizer, then the series of first courses where the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and Parmesan cheese stand out, seasoned with butter and sage. Continue with the meat and close with a very good English soup. Praiseworthy Prices.
Historical Center – Budrio
It could only be in a pedestrian alley in the center: a familiar and cared for environment that wants to break away from the typical trattoria with a 360 ° proposal that also contemplates fish. However, the meat dishes remain the real protagonists with recipes such as the quail breast panatine with its eggs and red beet pie or beef loin with stracchino cheese fondue and envy. The carta dei vini is not limited to the territory.
Osteria Spacciodivino – San Giovanni in Marignano
Small family-run restaurant, which immediately wins over the environment, the lively public and the warm service. You can also enter only for a platter of cold cuts and cheeses, with particular attention to the pecorino cheeses. Then space for the first Romagna dishes, with passatelli with porcini mushrooms and ravioli in the front row. Lots of meat per second, with a very popular cut, but also a surprising hamburger. You drink well.
