Tag: Praise

Allan Bay and the praise of eating with your hands: interview – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay


Food journalist, historian, writer, Allan Bay he has just put down on paper in a book what many (if not all) think, but which we often don’t have the courage to say. At least not in public (so, let alone doing!). She remembered that eat with your hands it is one of the great pleasures of life, and how and why we should do it whenever we can, except for rare exceptions that make it impossible to use the thumb and forefinger to touch food, smell it and bring it to the mouth.

Is titled Praise of eating with your hands (The Assayer): clear from the title, it is a cultured and entertaining historical and anthropological journey that clears this very satisfying gesture that over the centuries social conventions have made appear “exotic”. Indeed – let’s say it – in certain circumstances a little rude.

As you will discover by reading it, until recently, forks didn’t even exist: they arrived on the tables of the European bourgeoisie only in the 19th century, after being invented in China. Then etiquette began to dictate the rules, limiting them to one There is a very narrow circle of foods that can be eaten without cutlery. This too is an entirely Western affair, considering that there is half the world – with many Asian and African countries leading the way – that often willingly do without cutlery. Allan Bay also tells this story and, to move from theory to practice, he gradually suggests tasty dishes recipes from «conlemanisti. Or rather, as he explains in this interview, “indications”, which certainly make reading his first “personal” book even more pleasant.

Interview with Allan Bay

Why is it a “personal” book?
«It concerns a passion of mine that few of my friends, the real ones, know about: eating with your hands, in fact. I have written many books, especially recipe books, which as such had a basic objectivity. This book is different precisely because it talks about me.”

What makes eating with your hands so enjoyable?
«As children we discover the world – and therefore also food – first of all through touch and smell, and this physical contact with what we eat remains the greatest enjoyment. But over time we tend to deprive ourselves of it because as we grow up we are taught that we have to use cutlery: we lock ourselves into patterns. The purpose of the book is to get out of these patterns and clear, when possible, this great pleasure of eating with your hands.”

How many would like to do it but don’t have the courage to do it or even just say it?
“I do not know. However, I know for a fact that several of my friends love to eat with their hands and that many use cutlery even in cases where there is no need. I think, for example, of those who eat pizza with a fork and knife and of the astonished looks of the pizza chefs while they do so. And then in Naples even spaghetti was once eaten with the hands: remember Totò?

Praise to the fried gnocco typical of Modena – Italian Cuisine

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The grand master of the Gnocco d'Oro confraternity Luca Bonacini and the young chef Francesco Rompianesi introduce us to the fried and sweet gnocco.




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Cappuccino and … dumpling. Instead of croissant and brioche, a Modena it is a tradition to combine caffelatte with fried dumplings (with all due respect to purists, here the article "Il" is a penalty), that the bars and restaurants of the city prepare at all times: for breakfast, in fact; as a snack with a glass of Lambrusco; for lunch or aperitif with salami and cheese: Modena ham, pancetta, ciccioli, pecorino, caciotta, parmigiano reggiano.

As he writes Luca Bonacini "… The wait is sweet, the unmistakable aroma while the bar counter orders in the kitchen of to fry yet. In a moment … here comes the steaming couple "(the gnocchi are served in 2 pieces).

Simple and ancient food, which is said to date back to the Longobardi, the fried dumpling is versatile and transversal: historical farmers' breakfast, was also appreciated by the chef of the Estensi; and even today it is found in kiosks up to elegant restaurants, reinterpreted by great chefs.

Food identity for the Modena he Emilian (similar specialties with different names are found in Bologna, Parma, Reggio), in recent years has become famous throughout Italy, and even abroad.

All the places of the gnocco

171493 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2019/03/LUCA-BONACINI-Gnocco-doro.jpg "width =" 83 "height =" 125The best clubs in Modena and its province (bars, cafes and restaurants) serving traditional fried dumplings are brought together in the Brotherhood of the dumpling book gold (Luca Bonacini, Artestampa 2011). Dedicated to Modena specialty, to his admirers of yesterday and today, to events of which he is the protagonist. With an excursus on the "cousins" of other parts of Italy.

Video: Basic dough for fried gnocco

Luca Bonacini, gourmet passionate, Journalist is writer food and wine, is Great teacher of the Confraternita del Gnocco d'Oro, Modenese cultural association that enhances the dish symbol of the local culinary tradition.

In addition to having published 2 books on the dumpling and on the premises that cook it, the Brotherhood annually awards the best of the city with a competition. He also nominates the "testimonials", called Ambassadors of the Smoking Couple in reference to two small pieces of dumpling.

Video: Fried gnocchi with friggione and caciotta from the Modena Apennines

Tradition and new cuisine

Degree in economics soon abandoned for the stove, the Modena area Francesco Rompianesi he is chef of Latteria21, a small bistro in the center of his city open from breakfast to dinner. His kitchen, that is it trained at school of the stars Luca Marchini is Tokuyoshi in Milan, is sought in his simplicity and in the great respect of the raw material.

texts by Marina Cella
recipes by Francesco Rompianesi

Video: Gnocco and caffelatte with cream, coffee and cocoa

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