Cappuccino and … dumpling. Instead of croissant and brioche, a Modena it is a tradition to combine caffelatte with fried dumplings (with all due respect to purists, here the article "Il" is a penalty), that the bars and restaurants of the city prepare at all times: for breakfast, in fact; as a snack with a glass of Lambrusco; for lunch or aperitif with salami and cheese: Modena ham, pancetta, ciccioli, pecorino, caciotta, parmigiano reggiano.

As he writes Luca Bonacini "… The wait is sweet, the unmistakable aroma while the bar counter orders in the kitchen of to fry yet. In a moment … here comes the steaming couple "(the gnocchi are served in 2 pieces).

Simple and ancient food, which is said to date back to the Longobardi, the fried dumpling is versatile and transversal: historical farmers' breakfast, was also appreciated by the chef of the Estensi; and even today it is found in kiosks up to elegant restaurants, reinterpreted by great chefs.

Food identity for the Modena he Emilian (similar specialties with different names are found in Bologna, Parma, Reggio), in recent years has become famous throughout Italy, and even abroad.

All the places of the gnocco

The best clubs in Modena and its province (bars, cafes and restaurants) serving traditional fried dumplings are brought together in the Brotherhood of the dumpling book gold (Luca Bonacini, Artestampa 2011). Dedicated to Modena specialty, to his admirers of yesterday and today, to events of which he is the protagonist. With an excursus on the "cousins" of other parts of Italy.

Video: Basic dough for fried gnocco

Luca Bonacini, gourmet passionate, Journalist is writer food and wine, is Great teacher of the Confraternita del Gnocco d'Oro, Modenese cultural association that enhances the dish symbol of the local culinary tradition.

In addition to having published 2 books on the dumpling and on the premises that cook it, the Brotherhood annually awards the best of the city with a competition. He also nominates the "testimonials", called Ambassadors of the Smoking Couple in reference to two small pieces of dumpling.

Video: Fried gnocchi with friggione and caciotta from the Modena Apennines

Tradition and new cuisine

Degree in economics soon abandoned for the stove, the Modena area Francesco Rompianesi he is chef of Latteria21, a small bistro in the center of his city open from breakfast to dinner. His kitchen, that is it trained at school of the stars Luca Marchini is Tokuyoshi in Milan, is sought in his simplicity and in the great respect of the raw material.

texts by Marina Cella
recipes by Francesco Rompianesi

Video: Gnocco and caffelatte with cream, coffee and cocoa