Until 27 September, the 'petite capital' celebrates the Food Valley with a series of events, open to the public, linked to its tradition and to the great local products. An unmissable opportunity to (re) discover the local cuisine. Here's where
Petite Capital it has always been, since – in the first half of the 19th century – it was the heart of Duchy of Maria Luigia of Austria, second wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. Until 27 September it can be said that Parma becomes the capital of Italian food, thanks to 'Gastronomic September', an event that tells the story of the Food Valley through its gastronomic excellence. It is the expression of six supply chains: the DOP Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma, pasta, tomato, milk and anchovies. A mix of traditions, craftsmanship and passion that makes Parma a unique reality in the world, as recognized by UNESCO, which in 2015 elevated the ducal city to the Olympus of Creative Cities of Gastronomy: it was the first Italian city to receive this recognition, followed by Alba. The 'Gastronomic September' project has a choral nature, with the alliance between institutions, protection consortia, food companies and the world of catering. The promoters are the Municipality of Parma and the Parma UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy Foundation.
There is also a Tasty Box
There are many initiatives, open to the public, that can be discovered on the official website of the event. Perhaps the most interesting, September 24, is In the kitchen with Verdi, show staged by Gianmaria Aliverta for that of revealing one side of the Maestro, his nature as a refined lover of cooking. The 75 euro menu for the event at the Bersò will be curated by the team of Parma Quality Restaurants which includes 30 restaurateurs. Having said that every week in September it will be dedicated to a representative supply chain of the Food Valley Parma with themed proposals in various restaurants, we thought of the upcoming foodies with a nice idea. Anyone who will stay in one of the city accommodation facilities for one or more nights – as long as the period includes Saturday – will receive a 'Tasty Box – The Flavors of the Food Valley': a memory of the trip but also an invitation to experiment in the kitchen in your own home, in the name of the flavors of the ducal city. Inside, in fact, guests will be able to find the PDO Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma, pasta, tomato preserves, cream and Parma anchovies.
But the best – between a long walk in the historic center and the art exhibitions – is that you can happily devote yourself to the joys of the palate. The summa is composed from typical salami (Culatello di Zibello, Parma Ham, Felino Salami, Shoulder of San Secondo, Coppa di Parma …) to combine with fried pie; the tortelli with herbs – here the subject of eternal discussions on the nuances to achieve them – and the anolini; the mixed boiled meat and stew; there Maria Luigia cake and sweet tortelli obviously preceded by some flake of Parmigiano Reggiano, if aged even better. Here is our selection of places, rightly not only typical, where you will have a great time.
Antica Osteria della Ghiaia
In Piazza Ghiaia, a few steps from the historic market of the city, since 1950 it has offered good Parmesan cuisine: very popular cappelletti alla parmigiana and la Vecia (the old one: dish that has ground horse pesto as its main ingredient).
It takes its name from the neighborhood: in the past, the floods of the Parma (stream) frequently broke the banks here. Renowned not only for stuffed pasta, but also for specialties on the spit and grilled, strictly made of wood. On request, also masterclasses in the kitchen, to learn how to prepare typical dishes such as herb tortelli.
The Tri Siochètt
The sign means 'The three fools' in dialect. Just outside the city, it is an institution of Parmesan cuisine. It offers the best local culinary tradition: cooked shoulder, borage pie, salami and fried gnocco, stuffed pasta. Open for more than 25 years.
Virgilio defines himself as a 'resistant host' to fashions and is contrary to the philosophy of Km 0: if it is right to look closely (wide selection of cheeses, cold cuts and local wines), it is just as much to stretch your gaze in search of the good. Compared to the other places, it has the particularity of being in Oltretorrente, the Parma of the people.
Parma on the table, one could say: an unmissable place for those looking for the flavors of tradition. Established in 1925 by Paride Cocchi and now managed by Corrado Cocchi and his son Daniele. Among the specialties: anolini in broth; pastas, all strictly hand-rolled. Do not miss the cart of mixed boiled meats
It proposes a 'new Italian cuisine', borrowing ingredients from other cultures. Chef Simone Devoti, flanked by Diego Sales, worked for several years in London at Locanda Locatelli. Informal setting, enjoyable and contemporary dishes.
Classic country trattoria, which combines simplicity, family warmth and good cuisine, focused on local specialties. It also offers a vertical version of Parmigiano Reggiano DOP aged for 30, 40 and 72 months. Davide Censi is in the kitchen.
The exception that confirms the rule: in one of the lands most linked to tradition, one of the greatest creative chefs in Italy, Terry Giacomello, works. His is cuisine without borders, super technical, but he does not spare the territory beautiful provocations.
Maison du Gourmet
The chef is Vincenzo Dinatale, who has worked in large restaurants: he offers a four-course tasting menu (Homage to the Petit Paris) that enhances the culinary traditions and excellent products of the territory in an innovative way. The environment is refined and evocative, in the Coloreto area.
Starred for over 40 years, it is the restaurant par excellence in Parma, thanks to the skill of the chef-patron Marco Parizzi. Tradition is not forgotten but it is more interesting to taste eclectic and classy dishes such as guinea fowl in dried fruit crust with potatoes, spring onions and champignons.
Ai Due Platani
In the hamlet of Coloreto there is one of the Emilian trattorias at the top, reign of the expert Giancarlo Tavani. The 'trimurti' made up of the great local cured meats, stuffed pasta and the monumental cream ice cream is known to all Italian gourmets. The cellar is solid, ranging from local wines to those from beyond the Alps.