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Cod has changed – Sale & Pepe – Italian Cuisine

Cod has changed - Sale & Pepe


Instead of whales.
The idea, it is said, came to gods fishermen, maybe Basque (but there is little clarity about their nationality) in navigation in the northern seas whaling: stumbled upon large schools of cod, they decided not to miss the opportunity and to try to keep them as they already did with the meat of large cetaceans. Successful experiment. And if whales are no longer part of our diet today, the cod, in reverse, long-lasting food and available all year round, it has reached i ports and kitchens around the world (today it comes mainly from Denmark, the Faroe Islands, Norway, Iceland and Canada) becoming protagonist of the table of tradition.
If we look at the most typical recipes, not only Italian, we discover a paradox: the fish is from the North, but always yes accompanies Mediterranean ingredients, those of the shores where he arrives after the long voyage by ship from the cold seas, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, olives, capers, garlic. The cooking? Steamed (in which to sink large pieces of bread) or in frying (often with potatoes). A greedy and nutritious way of tasting it, which however has been changing in recent years.

Uses and recipes
A excellent food that the people like chef Rich in noble proteins, vitamins And mineral salts, low in fat, white and soft if well desalted, cod turns out to be an extremely interesting food for many chefs, who interpret it with creativity. Moreno Cedroni, for example, it offers it with sauce and diced hare; the Neapolitan Marianna Vitale puts it in a savory cheesecake; Gennaro Esposito presents it with chickpea cream; Luca De Santi, an eclectic pastry chef, even turns it into ice cream. That's what they say "discounting" of an ingredient, the approach to the trend of the moment, to the evolution of taste and palates. And so the cod has changed its appearance even in everyday cooking. It is similar to ethnic rice and pasta, it is combined with legumes and vegetables such as cabbage, colored carrots, turnips, asparagus and sweet potatoes. It is enjoyed in salad with seasonal fruit: it is excellent boiled and mixed with oranges and onions, all seasoned with orange juice reduced on the fire, oil and pepper. And again, it is used as original stuffed with artichokes and onions, is prepared in crispy meatballs and breaded with unusual spicy blends. Do you want to try? These pages will inspire you.

January 2022
Christian Cassé

Poppy strudel – Sale & Pepe – Italian Cuisine

Poppy strudel - Sale & Pepe


1) In a bowl mix flour with baking powder, sugar and soft butter into small pieces. Therefore add the eggs and knead everything again. Cover with a cloth and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.

2) In a saucepan boil a quantity of milk equal to the volume of poppy seeds; once it reaches a boil, add the seeds and cook them over very low heat for about ten minutes (the seeds must be just covered: you can eliminate excess milk or add more if necessary). At the end of cooking, the liquid must be perfectly blended with the poppy seeds and form a well-bonded, soft but not liquid mass.

3) Leave cool down, so add a few tablespoons of honey to sweeten and further bind the filling. Roll out half of the dough creating a rectangle of about 20×40 cm, spread over the filling leaving a couple of centimeters from the edge, then roll it up not too narrow lengthwise. Do the same with the second strudel.

4) Brush each strudel with a beaten yolk and bake at 180 degrees for 30-40 minutes. Serve them lukewarm into slices of about 1 cm, sprinkled with icing sugar.

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Posted on 25/01/2022

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Carnival and the pancakes found on the new Sale & Pepe – Italian Cuisine

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Less known but equally delicious: they are the Carnival pancakes "forget" (or, better said, found again), those that are prepared in small towns and that are handed down from one generation to the next. They have curious names like Caleno glove (to which we have dedicated our cover), Cannariculi or Orillettas and they have unusual shapes, sometimes spectacular, and little stories that have brought them down to us from distant times. We looked for them around Italy, collecting traditions and sifting through old cookbooks, to tell about a Carnival that is perhaps more intimate (as perhaps ours will still be) and less noble, but at least equally heartfelt and undoubtedly greedy. It is impossible to list all the fried gluttons of the Italian Carnival. Try the ones we have chosen for you.

The power of seeds
Still on the subject of rediscoveries, we went to find the virtue of seeds from sesame, linen, pumpkin, sunflower, poppy and many others. Origin of plant life, they already contain all its complexity and strength and give life to nutritious and healthy dishes. Which open to creativity, like a spicy pesto with coriander, pumpkin and sunflower seeds and sour cream or chicken wings in a sesame crust.

195261Noodles and cod
Rice, sweet potatoes, green tea, he also loves wheat and soy … the delicious strips of pasta that come from the East have many flavors and colors and are suitable for different recipes, dry and in broth. As far away from our traditions as they are appreciated by our palates. And then, another (re) discovery: the salted cod who, abandoning the popular clothes, wears new elegant and contemporary clothes.

Taste destinations
We have been to Florence, among the historic shops, which, alongside the traditional tourist one, draw a path to discover timeless shop windows, full of taste and craftsmanship. In Puglia we went to discover the restaurant of Vinod Sookar, Mauritian chef transplanted to Valle d'Itria, with a traditional cuisine with an exotic soul. In Valtellina, then, we evaluated the “heroic” viticulture, which interprets the Nebbiolo grape in different reds.

Traditional sweets
There panna cotta has a history that dates back to the eighteenth century, blossoms in the Piedmont sabuado of the nineteenth century, is codified as a recipe in the sixties and continues to depopulate in home cooking and in trattorias. And then there is the tiramisu, an internationally renowned spoon dessert, so much so that it deserves an academy and its acolytes: guests in our kitchen Tiziano Taffarello, founder of the Academy dedicated to the iconic dessert, supports its Treviso origin, documents in hand and Anna Maria Pellegrino, cook and food writer has prepared for us the traditional version and a rediscovery.

February 2022

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