Tag: world

Mauro Uliassi on the roof of the world – Italian Cuisine

The chef from Senigallia marvels with the third star: the second in two years. «Celebrate cooking for 300 people. In life it takes lightness ". Our country becomes the second most awarded by the «Red

The chef Mauro Uliassi, is awarded three Michelin stars: he is the idol, and the great novelty of2019 edition of the French guide. At the Auditorium Niccolò Paganini of Parma there is a roar for the chef of Senigallia that, with the restaurant that bears his name, has won the most coveted goal. An even more amazing success considering that, thanks to him, Italy reaches the round share of 10 tristellati and, with 29 new stars, becomes the second most awarded nation in the world.

Uliassi, born in 1958, opened his restaurant in 1990, together with the sister Catia. The kitchen reigns in his kitchen fish but there is also a lot game. «We have opened working 24 hours a day, but with a certain lightness, which I like to preserve. We are closed 3 months a year and 3 days a week ". The company also works in its restaurant, near the sea Chantal wife, the brother in law is Filippo, greater than his two sons. Among his icon-dishes, «Soup of brodetto: a piece of bread to dip in a concentrated fish sauce .

We met the chef during the post-graduation lunch. Slightly confused by the media outburst, but very happy, it is told a The Italian kitchen sipping a sip of Brunello di Montalcino frugally.

Surprised?
"Beautiful things, as such come to surprise you: you must be ready. But know how to also preserve the emotion. As an Olympic champion once said "it is a drop of amazement that I wish it would never end". This result is the result of a perfect machine to which all my team has worked ".

How do you get 3 Michelin stars?
«Let's be clear: you have to have the economic strength to manage all this. Although it is a great success. Once it was enough to work 24 hours a day and get involved. Today we must go beyond enthusiasm, we must live and earn money. Otherwise it's going to Formula 1 and not having a sponsor .

In addition to capital, how much does human capital count?
«Fundamental: in my case it is my work group, the one that was convinced and convinced to follow me to seek excellence

What is excellence?
«It is the aspiration that exists in each of us to seek the best we can, within ourselves. The difficulty is recognizing your talent: once you do it, you get passionate and become your life. It happens in all fields, to a chef as a mason. Then you have to identify find someone with your own inclinations and make sure that you follow .

Many will be congratulated with her: the most welcome comment?
"To tell you the truth, it was a prediction. A certain Neapolitan with whom I saw myself two days ago, he had subdued something. This is about my friend Antonino Cannavacciuolo. He looked at me and said: "You see that you keep sugar in your heart", or "keep your heart in sugar", you can see that you are happy. He has a particular feeling and has had it in certain situations. Thank you so much for this.

Italy has 29 first stars and becomes the second most awarded country in the world: what does it say to young chefs?
"That if they understood their deepest potential they did bingo. If you care about your talent then success comes, in relation to how much you believe and how much commitment you want to give .

We always talk a lot about Michelin. There are also those who have taken it off. Why is it important for you?
"Because it certifies a status and is something easily recognizable and decodifiable outside.

But why the "Rossa"?
«Because it is international because it speaks to the world: it is they who tell you you are there and why you are there. And do you know why? They were the first to have an intuition: to create a careful and careful business related to the restaurant industry. They started from the tires, they moved on to the road and to the path that people did to move from one place to another. Path during which people turn and eat. They gave a simple path to an extraordinary meaning .

Uliassi-plate — One of the chef's dishes

To get to her you have to do it by road.
«In reality we are at the center of the Marche region and in the center of Italy: a crazy crossroads. If you leave Bologna at 8 noon, you're here. And my friend Moreno Cedroni is very close .

He often mentions his colleagues: do you team up with chefs?
«Of course, it is of fundamental importance: Moreno, for example, is the element that has always kept me awake: 40 seats 40 and me. You do not escape for those who pass by here and love good food .

Is there a dish that you would always eat?
"No, I'm not interested in anything except what I'm doing right now. Dishes of 10 years ago now have no meaning, if not to be stages of a journey .

Plate of 2018 to keep in the menu next year?
"Fusilli and slippers with" lardo "of octopus, created by Mauro Paolini, the husband of my sister who has been working with us for 20 years. We are a group of extraordinary work of which I am the gustatory compass, that is, I decide which are the timbres of flavor. Then everyone in mind one thing and discuss it. But the dish, to end in the menu, must be applauded by all the staff .

Why is Italian cooking increasingly loved in the world?
«Because it is simple and made of extraordinary products, it is aromatic. But look at the clichés: Italian cuisine really exists only in Italy ".

Meaning?
"Abroad you can assemble, even masterfully, Italian excellence: sauce, balsamic vinegar, the right pasta. But for a magnificent dish it also takes the atmosphere and the right landscape .

Does the chef have to stay in the kitchen or can he stay anywhere?
«The chef must first be in the kitchen and achieve and consolidate goals, then he can go anywhere. It depends on how it is able to organize itself, on its capabilities and potential ".

Where do you want to go?
"I do not know yet. Now I'm too happy and I still can not think of tomorrow. But tonight I celebrate cooking for 300 people (dinner in honor of the guide's guests, ed), with all my staff. Everyone will give us a lot of compliments and that's okay. "

In the oldest acetaia in the world, a new story about balsamic vinegar – Italian Cuisine

The Giusti family has been producing balsamic vinegar for more than 400 years and has just inaugurated an exhibition that tells about what is not just a simple ingredient, but a heritage of history and know-how

The products that represent the food and wine excellences of our country are not only good: they tell stories, they hide secrets, they pass on know how to do. THE'balsamic vinegar, for example, otherwise called theBlack Gold of Modena, whose first traces date back toRoman age and that still today comes to life in the barrels jealously preserved in the attics of the Modenese houses, with a heritage and a recipe transmitted from generation to generation.

The oldest vinegar in the world

What a charm acetaie: rows of ancient barrels, arranged in increasing order from the smallest to the largest, corked with a doily held in place by a stone or with a piece of jute, to let the vinegar breathe, but do not let the insects enter. The oldest he boasts to own it Giusti family which more than 400 years ago started the first barrels of batteries in the attics of the Via Farini house in Modena. At the helm of the Gran Deposito Balsamic Vinegar of Giuseppe Giusti, founded in 1605, they have succeeded over the centuries 17 generations, the last represented by Claudio Stefani Giusti, born in '73, who left a successful career as a manager in the consulting sector to collect the legacy of his ancestors and transport the company to a young and international dimension.

The 600 historic barrels of the 1700s and 1800s are still in operation.

Good grapes, fine barrels and (a lot) of time: this is how the perfect balsamic vinegar is born

The rules for obtaining a "perfect" Balsamic vinegar? He wrote them in 1863 Giuseppe Giusti in occasion of the Modena Agricultural Exposition: choice of grapes, quality of the barrels and, fundamental, time. The more ancient the cask, the more intense the aromas and the character transmitted to the balsamic vinegar: for this reason the 600 historic barrels from the 1700s and 1800s still active are the heart of Acetaia Giusti: it is from here begins the long journey of aging balsamic vinegar.

The museum of balsamic vinegar

Since last October the vinegar factory is located in a new building, the old barn of a agricultural village of mid-nineteenth century completely restored, where it was also inaugurated a new and enlarged museum. The exhibit tells through 10 thematic rooms the long and fascinating history of balsamic vinegar, deeply linked to the city of Modena and the Giusti family. A journey through time and space, in the inestimable heritage of objects and documents preserved for generations: from the ancient jars used for conservation, to the tools used over the centuries by the vinegar makers, up to the first bottles and advertising posters of the early twentieth century. Among the most precious relics there are the casks as the "A3" barrel with which Giuseppe Giusti presented himself in Florence in 1861 on the occasion of the Italian Exhibition called by the Savoy, obtaining a gold medal for a 90-year-old balsamic. The Giusti family has always participated in the Expo of the late nineteenth century bringing the vinegar also directly into cask and in 1929 obtained the coat of arms of the king by Vittorio Emanuele III Vendors of the Real Casa Savoia.
If the museum finds space in what used to be the manor house of the village, a space for tastings and hospitality was set up in the former home of the workers: in 2017 20 thousand visitors came from all over the world. Because balsamic vinegar is not just a condiment, but an ingredient in all respects, and the demonstration of where ingenuity and passion can bring us.

French breakfast

I had a nightmare last night: it was that my husband said that if I didn’t want to have any more than two children then he was going to go and have more with someone else. He was very matter of fact about it (in the dream) and sort of morphed into Tom Hardy in The Take – and not in a good way, ladies. In fact, it was ghastly. I woke up feeling uneasy and rather than barking at him and boxing his ears as is the usual way, was very nice all morning.

I have spent the entirety of this pregnancy feeling conflicted and inadequate for loudly calling it quits at two children. “I do not have the guts,” I say to people, “for three.” And I don’t. At some point, you have to be realistic about what you are like. I am physically cowardly, mentally unreliable and morally slippery.

I just want to go on fucking holiday to somewhere hot and sunny and I do not want to have to buy a giant ugly car.

I don’t want to do all this without children, you understand. I want to take children on holiday, take them to beaches and swimming pools, rub fragile shoulder blades with suncream, let them have two Cokes with lunch then pretend to lose count so they have three. Later, when they’re older and if they’re still talking to me, maybe we’ll go somewhere crazy with them, like Cuba or India or Russia.

But I do not want to wait another six or seven years before we’re able to jet off easily. And if we have three, could we even afford to go anywhere? We’d need three hotel rooms, five plane tickets, eighteen arms. An unlimited supply of benzos. Three children, to me, never seems like two children + 1, it seems like two children squared.

And yet… and yet… I am one of four children. Four sisters. One, two, three, four – that’s us. A never-ending stampede of hair and teeth and nails and words. There are so many of us that we are rarely all in the same room at the same time. Our relationship with our mother is like the painting of the Forth Bridge. Once she’s got off the phone with the last one, it’s time to ring the first one all over again.

Two children is lonely. Suburban. It’s neat and dreary. And what if – oh god, horror – one of them moves to live in another country? Worst nightmare. What if neither have their own children? What if neither turns out to be the life-saving scientist I secretly crave to bring into the world? What if it’s the third one who would have found a cure for cancer, or discovered a clean, free, sustainable source of energy for the world?

I am being stupid. Three children would kill me. Kill. Me. And my marriage. And they won’t be scientists – who am I kidding. They will be pointless arts graduates like me. And they won’t be lonely, I say to myself. They will naturally end up being better at making friends than I was, what with no instant gang at home.

I say two children is lonely but there was no lonelier person in the world than me during the summer holidays as a 14 year-old, sitting out the long, friendless six week stint in our London house, never going anywhere, never doing anything; there were just too many of us, at such wildly different ages, to configure any sort of holiday that would suit everyone. That won’t need to be Kitty; we’ll be getting on a plane to Croatia, just to see what’s there.

This pregnancy has driven me to the edge of madness as it is; I find nothing about it charming, or fulfilling or interesting. It is doing unspeakable damage to vital areas of my body. It makes me a poorly-motived and boring parent. Kitty has already had to suffer the mild neglect and lack of stimulation caused by one extra gestation, why should she have to suffer two?

This is what goes round and round in my head. Endlessly, day after day. I feel like I ought to have more than two children – for Kitty’s sake. But precisely bearing her, and only her, welfare in mind, I also think the exact opposite.

I cannot win. I can only hope that it really was only a dream, not my husband whispering sleepy truths into my slumbering ear.

Continuing on the theme of Kitty, I have been forging on apace with her international gastronomic education (just so she knows what to eat when we arrive at teatime in, say, Bucharest).

We have turned recently – keeping things simple – to France.

I am always casting about for things to do with my round griddle pan as part of my resolution not to leave kitchen equipment sitting about idle; I thought I would capitalise on Kitty’s love of croissants to introduce a filled croissant to our breakfast repetoire.

A split croissant filled with either Nutella or ham and cheese goes down extremely well and it’s very easy to do on a hot griddle pan: split, fill, place on griddle, squash with flat implement for 4 mins each side.

Because if she’s not going to be a scientist, she’s might as well know what to order on a History of Art trip to Paris.

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