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White roots loving, a real medicine. And what a taste! – Italian Cuisine

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They are the organ of the plant involved in absorb water and mineral salts from the earth, the roots. And they come out of the earth pale, these roots: white and bitter, unlike their cousins, the colorful sweet carrots – also roots, in fact, as indeed are the virtuous turnips or the anti-diabetic sweet potato. Even when tuberiformes (ie, pot-bellied like a carrot and not in the shape of a breadstick), should not be confused with tubers, such as Jerusalem artichoke or potato, naturally – which are substantially enlarged portions of the stem of the plant, with a reservoir function of glucose substances .

170543White roots loving, therefore. Often we see them on the market bench e let's turn our eyes. Too much love? Too difficult to clean? Too unknown to cook? Well, it's time to take them back! And then know it: there are no more roots than once. They too have adapted to modern tastes and nowadays they are less bitter, probably softened by climate change.

170534The most famous of the loving white roots is that of Soncino (CR) where for decades the Amara Root Festival has been promoted. It is the root of a variety of common chicory (Chicorium intybus, var. sativus). Its origin is probably Ligurian, and just in the province of Genoa grows another excellent variety (sativus Bischoff), locally called "chiavarina" (from the town of Chiavari). Although the most famous and valuable root is there salsify, brown outside, white inside, more flavorful sweet, sophisticated and delicate, delicious past in the pan, with butter, white wine and lemon. Or breaded to the Milanese! It is also comparable to the latter the gobo, which is nothing but the root of the burdock, highly appreciated in Japan and now return to us (while in France they use it asparagus type). Their sweetness allows you to use them greedily even as a filling of delicious savory pies.

But back to those a bit 'more bitter, since that bitter is all health … These roots were once very appreciated, above all for their medicinal value: they are one extraordinary depurative, for blood and for the intestine. Already the ancient Greeks and Romans used them. Undoubtedly they detoxify liver and kidney: just eat a portion to guess this their property! Not only that: they help the growth of the famous bacteria in the colon Bifidus – those we try to stimulate with some yoghurt, which avoid unwanted fermentation processes. They also help to absorb the iron: perfect therefore for those suffering from anemia.

How to treat them? The cleaning it can be a bit boring, but here's a trick: "Sacrifice" a kitchen sponge and the scratches with the rough part, this will simplify your life.

At this point they can boil: common heritage wants it to be good to add a little lemon and / or vinegar to the water. In fact, the suggestion, to do go away a bit 'bitter, is to put in the water a carrot cut into pieces.

170537They are eaten lukewarm or cold, seasoned typically with extra virgin olive oil, salt, lemon (and vinegar, if you like) and garlic. In Chiavari they also put the anchovy in oil, and the root becomes gourmet! They are perfect from combine to seconds of fat meatsbecause they "purged". Or you can later on au gratin, perhaps adding a sweet cheese.

Regarding conservation, it is good to put them in a plastic bag in the fridge to keep the humidity. But be careful, there's a big one the difference between the tuberform and bity-rooted white roots (like that of Soncino). While the former would not give impulse to a new plant, and therefore with the passing of the days wither, they collapse, the latter are 'live' and continue to 'work': the green tuft grows and blooms, the root can throw other radicles while she becomes ever harder, woody. Within a week will have the consistency of a bone! In fact 'the old' at the time when you really did not throw away anything, when they were already hard often boiled for a long time and then chisel away the now unusable part. Conclusion: eat them as soon as possible! Still some ideas on how? Vellutate, combining them and mixing them with homegrown, lovable potatoes. Or croquettes (maybe together with vegetables and flavors).

170540And finally, a note: country that you go, root that you find. The common denominator is that they are the 'white loving'. There are also less bitter (and less white!), Of course, like the ones mentioned above (scorzonera & c) or the parsnip, large, hard and sweet, a sort of white parsley a little parsley (to try for example crushed in oven-baked pie, with cream and eggs). And the Japanese daikon, More and more common also by us, a natural fat burner with a sharp and decisive flavor. Another common denominator is: they are all very poor in calories! But give a chance to those you love too, trust me, your body will thank you and your palate will have some surprises.

Aurora Quinto
February 2019

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here's how to keep them. The tricks of a real expert – Italian Cuisine

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We love them. We have learned how they are born; we have learned them rules to serve them and taste them, we even learned to make them at home. Now we learn to conserve them.

We have turned toFerrari organic farm, a small producer who has been making cheeses in a natural way (without pasteurization) for 30 years with their cows, goats and sheep's milk in Dego (SV), on the Ligurian Apennines: from classic cheeses to mozzarella, from Primo Sale and ricotta to scamorze, tome, caciotta, simil-brie.

"It's a life that we make cheeses!" – he says proudly Mario Ferrari. And we ask him the advice to keep them. In the meantime, how long can we keep them? "The fresh ones do not last an exaggeration and they change taste. Other types they do not have deadlines: at most they continue to age – at the limit then they become grated cheeses ". This is an important first indication: cheese, if stored well, it lasts forever.

170307Let's immediately remove a doubt: out or inside the fridge? "The fresh must be kept in the fridge; the others depends on your home: if we have a pantry or a cellar, in any case a point that is not overly hot, it can very well be kept out of the fridge ". If it's too hot, in fact, the "sweat" cheese: fat cola. "It's not bad – Ferrari says – but it changes the taste a little".

The right temperature? It is 10 ° -12 °; up to 15 ° there is no problem. So if we are lucky enough to keep them out of the fridge, if they are whole they will simply be placed on a plate or on a cutting board.

It is true that they do not have to suffer thermal changes? "Better, because it changes. For once nothing happens, but hot – cold – hot – cold suffers, loses the values ​​of its taste ". And the factor humidity? "We must take it into consideration because the cheese do not dry too much. Otherwise the crust becomes too hard and it ages badly inside: with the right constant temperature, it dries slowly both outside and inside.

170316But often we do not buy a whole cheese, or a caciotta – even if it is a habit of consumption that should be questioned, just because buy whole cheese from the producers – which are very well preserved, in fact! – it would tend to be the ideal choice. But, so be it, we often find ourselves with the classic 'slice of cheese, you want because we bought that, or because we opened the form.

"Once opened, close the open part so as not to dry – Ferrari continues. Outside or inside the fridge they are. And here comes the doubt: cover how? Film, aluminum, paper, cloth … It is said that plastic – the film, therefore, does not go well … 170313"The film is not big problem – Ferrari short version. We are talking about keeping a slice, a part of cheese, not a shape that has to stay there to season … He sometimes also uses the silver card, even if that oily it's better. The damp cloththen, without a doubt, it keeps the cheese softer. Having said that, it is true that the cheese must breathe: "If you keep the most seasoned cheeses in the plastic (even in the classic box grated cheese, in theory made ad hoc, n.d.r) they breathe too little and if a cheese does not breathe, taste is altered ".

170319Here we continue to talk about taste, but the nutrients? And even more: food security? In other words, if a cheese is badly preserved, can it go wrong? "No, mildly appears" – Ferrari says – "The molds are almost all good; the only mold bad, rare, it's the one on the rose, reddish. For the rest, cheese can be eaten very well even with molds ". Yeah, not at all there are many cheeses of excellence with mold, which is just that good! If you do not want to eat the mold that has formed, just enough wash the cheese with water.

And finally, a 'question': you can keep the cheeses … in the freezer? "Well. No fresh cheese; the other types wanting yes, they can be frozen … ".

Carola Traverso Saibante
February 2019

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Where to find the real truffle (white or black) in Milan – Italian Cuisine

Where to find the real truffle (white or black) in Milan


2018 is a great year! To afford a little luxury just go to Eataly: at the Osteria del Tartufo throughout November, a "scratch" costs a few euros

Good news for lovers dewhite truffle. For the precious tuber, the 2018 it's what they say a good year. There is a lot of quality, and at a more affordable price when compared to last year's dizzying figures. At the Borsino di Alba, point of reference of the national market, it goes from 2.5 to 3 euros per gram, almost half compared to 2017, when they had also paid 450 euros for a pound. Merit of the summer rain, more abundant than last season, and hundreds of thousands of passionate trefoils throughout Italy who, dog in tow, ventured into the woods in search of the precious nugget.

Dinner with truffle in Milan? From Eataly

Thanks to this exceptional vintage, with one twenty euros so you can treat yourself to a little luxury and scrape a few grams of white truffle on a plate. Where is it? All 'Osteria del Tartufo of Eataly Smeraldo in Milan, for the whole month of November. You can enjoy dishes like the Robiola di Roccaverano "Agrilanga" with white truffle and the"Oliviero Claudio" egg cooked at 65 ° with cream of Jerusalem artichoke (both at € 23), the "La Granda" Piedmontese Fassona meat slice with Piedmont hazelnuts and "Pariani" oil at 26 euros, the Tagliolino "Bertoni" fresh pasta with "Beppino Occelli" butter at 28 euros or the Fondue of mountain pasture cheeses with Ottotondo bread croutons at 23 euros. Some of the dishes on the menu are also available with black truffle a few euros less. And if you are still not full of truffles you can ask for one too extra scratched! At pop prices

If you cook it at home

For those who prefer to buy the fresh truffles and use them at home, Eataly it's still the right place to find them in competitive prices: white this season, and blacks also at other times of the year. The range of recipes that can be created is very wide. In addition to the tagliolini, the egg to the pan and the meat, the white truffle can even be grated on cream ice cream: have you ever tried? It is a real treat. Some ideas for use the black truffle instead, less delicate and less expensive and that you can also cook? You can use it by preparing small appetizers like i vol au vent with truffle fondue, first as the gnocchi of potatoes, porcini mushrooms and truffles on pumpkin cream, spaghetti alla norcina, with black truffle from Norcia, extra virgin olive oil, anchovies and garlic, or a creamy potato and truffle leek. And also second courses like the famous ones tournedos at the Rossini with beef fillet, foie gras and truffle.

Truffle ready to use

If you have less time to cook, finally, there are many products based on truffles with which to perfume your preparations: sauces, spreads, organic extra virgin olive oil and salt, but also butter, noodles, risotto and honey to accompany cheeses. All prepared with truffles of first quality and ready to taste!

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