Of course, in Tuscany the steak – strictly grilled – has an edge. But even on a plate or with a pan you can get a good result. Here are the right tips
Premise: continue to call it Florentine, but if you are in Tuscany – in particular in Florence and in the province – use the term beef steak, otherwise they will confuse it with the football team that plays in the purple jersey or they will look at you badly. Joking aside, the Florentine is a very serious thing, Serie A for unrepentant carnivores and confessed offenders. In the former Grand Duchy the term steak is used which refers to the beef-steak. "Between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the relationship between Florence and England was very close, but we wanted to make better than their roast beef: so the best cut of meat, destined for the rich, that came from Chianti was codified as it were . And we even stole his name… he says Aldo Fiordelli, journalist and food critic, Florentine doc, author of the first book on the subject – La Fiorentina, hosts, butchers and wines of the real steak (Publishing Group, 2019) – which allows for a valid culture on the subject.
Fillet and sirloin
Starting with the (almost) official definition of the cut: a steak of Tuscan adult beef, cut 3-4 fingers high in the loin and cooked rare on the grill. There is everything, but details and variations make the difference. First of all, the loin is the rear one where theT-shaped bone separates tenderloin and sirloin, because the classic ribs with the largest bone, curved in shape, are obtained from the front one. The weight: the optimal weight, for cooks and faithful, is between 1.2 and 1.6 kg. The height has grown over time to encourage rare cooking (born with two fingers) and to defend it from imitations. Then if the Chianina breed remains on the top step of the podium, also in Tuscany steaks from Maremmana, Romagnola, Marchigiana and Piedmontese, but also from Manzetta Prussiana, Limousin, Scottona are grilled serenely: the important thing is the good – not excessive – marbling and especially the maturation that cannot be less than ten days. Some butchers even go up to thirty. And it's good.
Good meat? Also online
Speaking of butchers, it is clear that the starting point for a good home preparation is shopping. Once more than ever, the concept of a trusted butcher has its own importance. For those who trust only the greats of Tuscany, online comes to the rescue. For example Stefano Bencistà Falorni (Greve in Chianti) proposes it at 33 euros for a weight of 1.1 kg, Luca Menoni (Florence) at 27.50 euros per kg while Dario Cecchini (Panzano in Chianti) has created a Parcel Grigliatore a 100 euros which includes about 1.5 kg of steak on the bone (rib or Florentine depending on availability), 1.5 kg of Panzanese steak and 500 g of the delicious Sushi del Chianti. Cecchini is the most famous butcher on the planet: recites whole passages from Divine Comedy to customers, he is friends with Sting and Charles of England and was even the protagonist of an episode of Chef's Table on Netflix. For him, Florentine is poetry. "There will be an increasing need for meat and fire, for ancient things, for conviviality: steak is not a dish, but a supreme tribute that we pay to the adult animal after having consumed all the other cuts".
Before cooking
Here we are at home preparation. First, the meat must be removed from the fridge at least three hours before use and dabbed with absorbent paper in such a way as to eliminate surface moisture, which risks creating the boiled effect as soon as cooking begins. For those who have terraces, gardens, any outdoor space, there is the possibility of using a grill – more or less serious – knowing that for the Tuscans you must use only oak or olive coals. For those who live in an apartment building, it is necessary to adopt a different technique: low cast iron pan, griddle grill better if not electric. The important thing is to bring the tool at very high temperature to immediately create the Maillard reaction, the one that forms the delicious external crust and gives the typical scent of roasted meat.
One turn, then vertically
The cooking times? Usually from 5 to 6 minutes per side depending on the thickness of the meat which must be between 3 and 5 cm. If you don't have a grill, don't overdo it anyway: the famous "4 fingers" are more easily suited to the restaurant. Once placed, the steak should not be moved for fear that it will stick to the plate. After the minutes by lifting a flap and seeing the classic brown / brown color, you realize when it's time to change sides. The meat should only be turned once is without using a fork which could puncture the steak and cause the juices to leak. Once cooked on both sides, the steak should be placed vertically by placing the bone in the pan for another 5 minutes so that the cooking is homogeneous reaching the heart of the meat. The times described above are for one rare, if you prefer medium cooking, increase by a couple of minutes per side. For the precision ones, who have a probe thermometer, the core temperature will be 55 degrees, 62-65 for medium cooking, 75 for having it well cooked.
Salt and extra virgin (but after)
Once cooked, it makes sense to wrap the meat in aluminum foil and let it rest: the muscle fibers contracted by cooking return to relax and the juices to spread evenly over the entire steak. After 4-5 minutes, it is placed on a hot plate, in order to contain and slow down the cooling of the meat. Cecchini has a different view. «After the passage in the pan, put the steak in the oven for ten minutes to let it rest, don't cook it yet. And woe to add oil and salt before cooking: otherwise you will end up like Count Ugolino . Instead, once on the plate, they are fine some Maldon crystals and a touch of extra virgin olive oil: the ideal is the Coratina from Puglia, intense and fruity, with all respect for the Tuscan ones. For the record, there is a current of thought that supports a preventive massage of the meat with a drizzle of oil. Make vobis, we in the Muda tower with the ghost of Count Ugolino do not want to go …
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