Tag: enjoying

As in the streets of Paris, enjoying a boulangerie delight – Italian Cuisine

We dream of strolling through the streets of Paris, with the melody of the Vie en Rose of Edith Piaf. The atmosphere is romantic and a little melancholy. Let yourself be lulled by that pleasant smell of baguette freshly baked, that fragrance of Croissant that we pleasantly want to bite into. That modern boulangerie in front of us, warm and reassuring, where you can relax for a pleasant breakfast while sipping one Cup of coffee. And here it all began like this.

It was the 1683 is the Ottoman Empire had just been defeated a Vienna. Indeed, it seems that the Ottomans attempted to besiege the Habsburg Empire without, however, ever being able to surpass the defenses. So they tried the underground tunnels to go through during the night. However, they were taken by surprise thanks to the bakers who, working during the night, warned the sentries, saving the city. It is said that it was the pastry chef Vandler, worthy of this heroic act, to have the exclusive right to produce something special to commemorate the event. And this is how the delicious croissants are born, now the turkish logo, par excellence, due to its a Crescent moon.

A specialty that over time has made many revolutions, all derived from the historian Austrian Kipferl, a sweet or savory specialty prepared with simple ingredients available to everyone: flour, butter, eggs, water, sugar and egg yolk to brown the surface.

So why do we call croissants typical French products? All thanks to the artillery officer August Zang who in 1938 founded the first Boulangerie Viennoise (Viennese pastry shop) in Paris, a small shop where the delicious ones were baked viennoiserie: leavened baked desserts made with a technique closer to that of bread than to traditional pâtisserie. From here the success was immediate, so much so that they indulged themselves to create many other mouth-watering alternative versions.

Starting with croissont, the famous triangle of layered leavened dough, which once cooked becomes one crunchy casket with a soft heart. We find a similar mixture in pain du chocolat, which stuffed with drops or pieces of chocolate, is the favorite culinary attraction of many tourists visiting French cities. But instead the kouing amann, Have you ever heard about it? He has reserved a place of honor among the viennoiserie. Originally from Brittany, Northwest region of France, its appearance is similar to that of the cake and its main ingredient is butter. Its flavor may certainly remind us of that of a croissant but unlike it, it is never stuffed. Its fame, which began in Paris, soon sparked all over the world, until 2012 when it was even named specialty Dessert of the Year.

From Paris we travel to Milan, where it awaits us, in Porta Venezia, the boulangerie Egalitè which documents the culture of the sweet and savory bakery in the other side of the Alps, and which in a couple of years has become a point of reference for the inhabitants of the neighborhood, their meeting place of the heart, especially for the Francophone community living in the Lombard capital . Here you can taste a little French tradition, intimate and informal. Savoring the crunchiness of this croissont, it feels like sitting on a comfortable chair a Place du Trocadéro, contemplating the fascinated Eiffel Tower.

Elena Strappa
Photo by Michele Tabozzi

Enjoying a good Florentine at home? Tips for perfect cooking – Italian Cuisine

Of course, in Tuscany the steak – strictly grilled – has an edge. But even on a plate or with a pan you can get a good result. Here are the right tips

Premise: continue to call it Florentine, but if you are in Tuscany – in particular in Florence and in the province – use the term beef steak, otherwise they will confuse it with the football team that plays in the purple jersey or they will look at you badly. Joking aside, the Florentine is a very serious thing, Serie A for unrepentant carnivores and confessed offenders. In the former Grand Duchy the term steak is used which refers to the beef-steak. "Between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the relationship between Florence and England was very close, but we wanted to make better than their roast beef: so the best cut of meat, destined for the rich, that came from Chianti was codified as it were . And we even stole his name… he says Aldo Fiordelli, journalist and food critic, Florentine doc, author of the first book on the subject – La Fiorentina, hosts, butchers and wines of the real steak (Publishing Group, 2019) – which allows for a valid culture on the subject.

Fillet and sirloin

Starting with the (almost) official definition of the cut: a steak of Tuscan adult beef, cut 3-4 fingers high in the loin and cooked rare on the grill. There is everything, but details and variations make the difference. First of all, the loin is the rear one where theT-shaped bone separates tenderloin and sirloin, because the classic ribs with the largest bone, curved in shape, are obtained from the front one. The weight: the optimal weight, for cooks and faithful, is between 1.2 and 1.6 kg. The height has grown over time to encourage rare cooking (born with two fingers) and to defend it from imitations. Then if the Chianina breed remains on the top step of the podium, also in Tuscany steaks from Maremmana, Romagnola, Marchigiana and Piedmontese, but also from Manzetta Prussiana, Limousin, Scottona are grilled serenely: the important thing is the good – not excessive – marbling and especially the maturation that cannot be less than ten days. Some butchers even go up to thirty. And it's good.

Good meat? Also online

Speaking of butchers, it is clear that the starting point for a good home preparation is shopping. Once more than ever, the concept of a trusted butcher has its own importance. For those who trust only the greats of Tuscany, online comes to the rescue. For example Stefano Bencistà Falorni (Greve in Chianti) proposes it at 33 euros for a weight of 1.1 kg, Luca Menoni (Florence) at 27.50 euros per kg while Dario Cecchini (Panzano in Chianti) has created a Parcel Grigliatore a 100 euros which includes about 1.5 kg of steak on the bone (rib or Florentine depending on availability), 1.5 kg of Panzanese steak and 500 g of the delicious Sushi del Chianti. Cecchini is the most famous butcher on the planet: recites whole passages from Divine Comedy to customers, he is friends with Sting and Charles of England and was even the protagonist of an episode of Chef's Table on Netflix. For him, Florentine is poetry. "There will be an increasing need for meat and fire, for ancient things, for conviviality: steak is not a dish, but a supreme tribute that we pay to the adult animal after having consumed all the other cuts".

Before cooking

Here we are at home preparation. First, the meat must be removed from the fridge at least three hours before use and dabbed with absorbent paper in such a way as to eliminate surface moisture, which risks creating the boiled effect as soon as cooking begins. For those who have terraces, gardens, any outdoor space, there is the possibility of using a grill – more or less serious – knowing that for the Tuscans you must use only oak or olive coals. For those who live in an apartment building, it is necessary to adopt a different technique: low cast iron pan, griddle grill better if not electric. The important thing is to bring the tool at very high temperature to immediately create the Maillard reaction, the one that forms the delicious external crust and gives the typical scent of roasted meat.

One turn, then vertically

The cooking times? Usually from 5 to 6 minutes per side depending on the thickness of the meat which must be between 3 and 5 cm. If you don't have a grill, don't overdo it anyway: the famous "4 fingers" are more easily suited to the restaurant. Once placed, the steak should not be moved for fear that it will stick to the plate. After the minutes by lifting a flap and seeing the classic brown / brown color, you realize when it's time to change sides. The meat should only be turned once is without using a fork which could puncture the steak and cause the juices to leak. Once cooked on both sides, the steak should be placed vertically by placing the bone in the pan for another 5 minutes so that the cooking is homogeneous reaching the heart of the meat. The times described above are for one rare, if you prefer medium cooking, increase by a couple of minutes per side. For the precision ones, who have a probe thermometer, the core temperature will be 55 degrees, 62-65 for medium cooking, 75 for having it well cooked.

Salt and extra virgin (but after)

Once cooked, it makes sense to wrap the meat in aluminum foil and let it rest: the muscle fibers contracted by cooking return to relax and the juices to spread evenly over the entire steak. After 4-5 minutes, it is placed on a hot plate, in order to contain and slow down the cooling of the meat. Cecchini has a different view. «After the passage in the pan, put the steak in the oven for ten minutes to let it rest, don't cook it yet. And woe to add oil and salt before cooking: otherwise you will end up like Count Ugolino . Instead, once on the plate, they are fine some Maldon crystals and a touch of extra virgin olive oil: the ideal is the Coratina from Puglia, intense and fruity, with all respect for the Tuscan ones. For the record, there is a current of thought that supports a preventive massage of the meat with a drizzle of oil. Make vobis, we in the Muda tower with the ghost of Count Ugolino do not want to go …

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the rules for enjoying the typical Christmas dessert at the top – Italian Cuisine

Eye to the form
The panettone's dome must be golden, swollen and round but not too high. In its most classic version, without icing, the surface is characterized by its characteristic cross cut, the "escarpment" that must be clearly visible. The hoof will be compact but not too dark.

Better big
Like all leavened products the panettone gives its best in large formats: in a larger volume it retains more moisture, which favors a good leavening.

Panettone loves the heat
It seems a paradox but the winter dessert par excellence is better if the temperature is high. The experts guarantee that in August it is better than ever. But for us traditionalists, who reserve it for the table of holidays, the advice is to keep it at least one day in one well-heated environment: this will give off its aromas and it will be softer.

You eat first with your eyes
The pleasure of a pleasant tasting of the panettone comes also from the sight and the smell: dedicated attention to the pasta, which must be yellow (a sign that contains many egg yolks) and well honeyed. Then enjoy the scents: first the citrus fruit (which comes from candied fruit) then the vanilla one and finally the buttery component (whose intensity also derives from the type of butter used: the best is the outcropping).

Impeccable service
The suggestion of the experts is to eliminate all the paper cups, to serve the dessert in its original form (the paper container was born for commercial reasons after World War II, with practical and hygienic but not aesthetic functions).

Perfect slices
Panettone should be cut with a slow and deep movement, keeping the knife parallel to the serving plate so that the air bubbles do not crush. The right portion is 80 g.

Pairings doc
Served simply smooth, the panettone goes well with i passito wines but also robust reds like a Barolo Chinato. If instead you want to combine it with one creamIn addition to the classic mascarpone cheese, you can try it with eggnog, pastry, but also a cream of hazelnuts and pistachio or a raspberry coulis, whose acidity perfectly compensates the fat component of the panettone. If you love gourmand experiments, you can serve it with a reduction of aged balsamic vinegar or, toasted, in combination with foie gras. And what's going on? Try it for breakfast, cut into cubes, always toasted or sautéed in a pan with a little butter.

Livia Fagetti
With the advice of Pier Venturi, product manager of IDB Group
November 2018