The chef from Campania, who grew up under the Madonnina, has transformed the restaurant on the top floor of Eataly into wonderland. Intense in the environment and in the kitchen. It will be one of the new musts of Milan to eat (and drink)
In a Milan that never stops, the most important opening after the summer break was certainly that of Viva. Same location (on the top floor of Eataly Emerald) and the same chef (Viviana Varese). But a change of name – which is the acronym of his initials – accompanied by a widely renewed design and a different vision from the previous one for kitchen, service and cellar. There is no exaggeration in believing that ViVa is preparing to become the prototype of today's Milanese restaurant: Michelin star, scenic architecture, opening seven days a week, young and informal service, great wine list and ample space for cocktails, coffee and tea. In the form Alice has renewed herself, but above all has changed in substance. It is no coincidence that Varese has drawn up a programmatic manifesto: a promise made to itself, to its collaborators, as well as to guests.
Wonderland
The place seems to come from a scene of Alice (curiously, the name that the place had until July) in Wonderland: intense colors, original decorations, a tendency to the irregularity of furnishing objects. "I cook rainbow dishes, because I need all the colors to celebrate the diversity of the world and its nuances," says Varese. "This is how dishes like Iride were born, a multicolored lasagna with cod and turnip tops, the Tortello Rainbow and the idea of 7 variations on the vegetable garden, which will change continuously based on seasonality, precisely because the earth is Viva as indeed the place is called. We will put life on the plate: it is not just a beautiful name . Viviana is one of the most famous Italian chefs. A brief summary for the few who do not know it: born in 1974, a native of Salerno, the family made fish bones in restaurants such as Albereta, El Celler De Can Roca, Enigma, Aponiente and Relae. In 2007, together with Sandra Ciciriello, she opened Alice Ristorante in Milan, winning the Michelin star in four seasons.
Ritu Dalmia's hand
In 2014, the place moved into the newborn Eataly Smeraldo. «Milan is a city that represents me, it is the only one where I can live and where I want to continue living. My territory is Milan so mine is a terroir kitchen, made of design, fashion, being cosmopolitan. The Milanese cuisine is not only one based on risotto and ossobuco, but the one linked to the lifestyle of today ", emphasizes the cook who in this great operation sold 20% of the company to Riga Food Srl, which from 2017 decrees the collaboration among the Indian Ritu Dalmia – patronages of Cittamani and Spica – and entrepreneur Analjit Singh through Leeu Collection. Also in this way the resources to strengthen the staff that has veterans like Ida Brenna (sous chef and chief pastry chef) and Matteo Carnaghi (sous chef) have been found; and then entrust the room to two talents: the director Luis Diaz (best young maitre of Italy in 2017) and Gianluca De Marco, second maitre.
A super billboard
Based on the needs of the market, from Monday to Friday, Viviana Varese has created a special "business lunch" that follows the times and rhythms of nature: 45 € for 7 variations on the vegetable garden, a main dish, dessert; or € 58 for the 7 variations on the vegetable garden, two main courses and dessert. At dinner you choose from a very rich card, where the fish still plays a fundamental and fun role (just read the names of the colorful plates that are visible in our gallery); or you rely on the two tastings of € 125 and € 150. The idea of opening the kitchen of ViVa to some of the most prestigious chefs who will take the reins of the resident brigade is also lucid, while Viviana will only take care of the desserts. Eight event evenings scheduled starting in October, and then continuing in 2020 with a calendar of extraordinary events: it starts with Tim Butler, directly from Bangkok, while next year Mauro Colagreco del Mirazur, the current number, will also pass 1 in the world. Pass the play on words, but ViVa promises to be a very ViVace place.