Tag: Sushi

Sushi samba: the "Milanese" tradition of Brazilian sushi – Italian Cuisine

Exotic fruits, sauces, rainbow colors and no homage to the Japanese tradition: Brazilian sushi is the result of a centuries-old culture, or at least now. From the chef's restaurant to the restaurants for Instagrammer where to make sushi-aperitifs: here's where to find him in Milan

The kitchen is the mirror of society, history, climate and economy. It reflects the centuries-old trades and dominations, and the intuitions that run today on the roads of the Net. It is as original as polenta and tomato in Italy, or sushi in Brazil. It's as recent as it is so well rooted.

Japanese in Brazil
Brazilian sushi is not an invention of the Temakinho in Milan, but the result of the emigration of Japanese workers who come from early twentieth century they settled in South America. Today there are about 1.5 million, the largest Japanese community outside the national borders and with its own culinary culture called Nikkei Burajiru jin. In a foreign land, the Japanese chefs began to use avocados and tropical ingredients, fish with salmon and sauces with exotic flavors, simplifying and daring, without limits of raw materials, textures, combinations. From there they started, like to work as sushi-man around the world, and little by little instead of doing "pretend" to make pure Japanese sushi, they expressed their culture. Different, contaminated, but still with a gastronomic sense and a history.

Now it is no longer a Japanese-Brazilian one
A Japanese sushi man twists his nose at the thought that Americans mainly eat uramaki (which in fact were invented in Los Angeles in the sixties), do not conceive the California Roll (the one with avocado) and imagine the Philadelphia – where Philadelphia is going to cheese. By now they will have sent him down, but he would do harakiri thinking that there may be gods sweet pink roll, rainbow ones or crumbled potato chips. In a sushi-Brazilian restaurant, this is part of the fun, but there is little Brazilian now.
From exotic, once transplanted abroad, Brazilian sushi has become "a lot", super seasoned, extreme, pleasure, and the flag under which to register everything, where everything is granted – including any gastronomic fashion, no matter what, from tacos al ceviche, as long as it works. But and indeed, especially for this, like it and the restaurants are overflowing. A success, because the "Japanese-Brazilian" style is more colorful, fun and satisfying for Western palates looking for a dinner in a nigiri dish.

In the world, restaurants with Japanese-Brazilian cooks are many, many, and only in Milan there are historical signs and new openings, from those of level to the premises designed to please Instagram. Here they are.

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Finger's: the gourmet experience
Elegant and trendy, the restaurant of the chef Roberto Okabe, Finger's, is the maximum expression of the kind in Milan. Before him, in Milan nobody had dared to mix Japan, Brazil, and Italy, nighiri, tropical fruit and extra virgin olive oil. Signature dish, the Carpaccio Okabe with gaspacho, lime and ginger, salmon sushi and avocado Saudade do Brasil, and no foreclosure, not even ingredients made in Italy such as cheese, peppers and béchamel which for example uses a dish called Taiyo and Luna , scallop with cream cheese and kataifi pasta.
It also says the sign: Fingers, creative Japanese cuisine, so there is no expectation of respect for the Japanese tradition – but that of Brazil. Okabe is Brazilian, son of Japanese, and brings in the technical plate, experience and exuberance, but never excessive or designed to make news. Here raw materials are widely selected and no expense is paid – so even the bill is to be calculated accordingly. Opened in 2004, now has two locations in Milan (one with a Zen garden), one in Porto Cervo, Megève and Rome. Trendy and well-attended environment (players and VIPs included), just think that this is also a Maison Krug.

Berimbau: churrasco and samba sushi
Brazil calls Italy in this place where al rodizo of all-you-can-eat meat joins a proposal of Brazilian style sushi. Perfect for companies, because it does not impose the same menu choice at the table, here you can choose individually what to eat. The restaurant in Corso Magenta is historic and for years now works on this double track, tested. It has recently introduced a new invention, born from the owner's passion for international cuisine: Sushi Cup Small portions that allow you to explore different combinations of flavors, without respect for tradition, and that bring in "mini-pokè" raw fish, cooked, meat tartare, exotic fruits but even truffles and caviar. They are eaten without chopsticks, from small bowls used to drink sake, small, and then they can eat 9,12, choose them from the menu or compose them alone. And then, attention for vegetarians, diabetics and those who must be careful about the diet, without wanting to deprive themselves of taste and fun.

Temakinho: the masters of the format
We must acknowledge one thing: the Temakinho chain (which now has restaurants in London, Ibiza and Formentera) has made Brazilian sushi known to the Milanese on a large scale – and now thanks to the injection of capital from investment funds, to the rest of the world. Founded in 2013 by three Italian entrepreneurs in just 5 years Temakinho has grown and has become one of the most innovative European models of Japanese-Brazilian cuisine, as well as a machine to make money. And he did it with beautiful, colorful rooms, amusing, that after many years are still the favorite of the Influencers. Before them the "temaki", the cone of nori seaweed stuffed with rice and raw fish, was still unknown, keeping up with the times and now they also offer breakfast, always in fusion sauce.

Y-not: aperisushi
Local in the Brera area, Milanese furniture and property, serving Japanese-Brazilian style sushi in a crowded urban mood. So in addition to business lunch you can also stop for an aperitif with a saucer paired with wine or cocktails. Among the specialties, chimeras like uramaki with venus rice or Mexican ones with jalapenos and nachos, the exotic fruit replaces the local one, like the apple combined with tuna and Philadelphia and the tempura is also of pumpkin flowers and shrimp. A handful of hot dishes.

Bomaki: without borders
Casual, the Bomaki of chef Jeric Bautista, is a "uramakery", that is, it focuses on the thousand creative versions of uramaki – but over the years has developed Japanese-Brazilian tacos and jap-style burritos. Inside the uramaki we end up with everything: avocado, parmesan, cheddar, jalapenos, spreadable cheese, mango, pistachios, … are stuffed, rolled up, topped, flambéed, rolled in chips. Fun, a (fairly) healthy junk-food in the form of sushi where it abounds with mayonnaise and sauces. Opened in 2013 in full swing, in Corso Sempione, now the premises are 6, colorful, with tropical wallpaper and background music.

Japan Square
Last arrived among the openings of nippo-brasiliani, it is of Neapolitan property. From the name it might seem a new super-colored venue, instead they focused on a more "adult" environment. The menu is more or less the same, made of creative rolls, temaki etc. New in the industry, they also make sandwiches, a couple of hot rolls and offer a € 15 single-course lunch with raw fish, rice and roll. Even here, Italy enters in arrogance as for the Carpaccio of Salmon seasoned with oil and basil.

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5 perfect beers for sushi – Italian Cuisine

A small selection of beers that will make your next feast of sushi unforgettable among great classics, Japanese goodies and Italian surprises

This evening sushi?
If you have said it at least three times in the last month, you are part of that big slice of Italian population that has embraced the Japanese gastronomy without hesitation. Parties with the ordering sushi and sashimi mixed to avoid mistakes, we ended up knowing every corner of the menu and remembering the names of the most complex dishes.

But also for the most hardcore lover sushi dilemma on perfect drinks to accompany the meal is something that is repeated from time to time. Water? Wine? Green tea? Sake?
They are all excellent ideas, but even beer is not bad. Rather. In some ways it is the perfect idea to enhance raw, marinated, fried and sauces. A smart and perfect choice to toast with friends without betraying the most authentic spirit of Japan.

What you drink in Japan

The wine is for the Japanese an acquired habit in more recent times and often linked to proposals imported mainly from South America. Although our labels are very popular, they represent an expensive and accessible niche for a few. Local wines are instead produced mainly by companies Mann's, Mercian and Suntory and a bottle is sold at the modest sum of about 1000 Yen (just under 8 euros).

The history of the sake, the Japanese traditional alcoholic beverage obtained from the fermentation of rice. During meals it is usually served in a dry version, that is karakuchi, but also the sweet called "amacuchi" is very popular. With 20% alcohol content, however, it is quite challenging during meals and comes traditionally served in a small glass before starting to eat. The drink for the whole meal known to tradition is in fact the you green, but it is also very popular in the English version, a black tea that is called kocha.

And the beer?

Yes to tea, sake, soups and some wine tasting. But today's Japanese people drink beer and produce excellent ones. Apparently the first production dates back to 1853 when the Dutch medical doctor Kōmin Kawamoto prepared it following the Dutch recipe found in a book. From then on, things began to move with great speed: in 1870 at Yamate in Yokohama veins founded by the American William Copeland the Spring Valley brewery. In the same year, the Dutch started to import one of their flagship products in Japan, meeting the taste of traders and fishermen.

We have to wait only two years to witness the first Japanese brewing of beer. In 1872 in fact Shozaburo Shibutani began to produce beer in Osaka. In Sapporo instead, in 1876, Kaitakushi was opened: the first government-run brewery. It will take ten years for local production to exceed the quantities of imported beer and continue to grow to experience a moment of arrest during the Second World War. But that between the Japanese and the beer is a love story that still goes on well today. If you go from Tokyo you can not do without visiting the Bakushu Club Popeye, one of the most famous pubs in the city with 70 spines ready to tap 70 beers.

The sushi and the glass

Letting us be inspired by the love of the Japanese for beer, all that remains is to find the perfect ones to accompany the sushi, or our obsession made in Japan. In the gallery below 5 very different choices for each source and style, to try and try again between a mouthful and the other.

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Sushi for obsessives

This is why you need to wipe your knife between roll cuts. Notice how I have focused on the only clean one

Up until very recently I laughed at people who made their own sushi. There are some things that are best left to the experts, is my view – and sushi is one of them.

Then my raging pregnancy craving for sushi got quite out of control. It’s all I want to eat, ever. It’s all I can really stomach eating. I don’t really mean actual raw fish, although that will do, I really mean cut rolls, maki rolls – California rolls, spicy tuna rolls – even vegetarian rolls. I don’t care. I’m not fussy. I just want fucking sushi. I am an addict.

Even my Japanophile husband is getting a bit alarmed by it all, especially when we went out to a robata (a Japanese grill, where they cook tiny things on skewers – really delicious) and refused to eat anything except sushi.

But I can only squeeze a trip out for sushi out of him about once a fortnight or he starts getting bored with it, so I’ve had to come up with ways of filling in the gaps between my professional sushi hits. I stopped short at the Japanese sundries section of Waitrose the other day, dithered for a moment, then held out my arms, and swept the whole lot off the shelves and into my trolley: sushi mat, nori paper, wasabi, sushi rice, sushi rice seasoning. Then I wheeled back to the vegetable aisle and bought a cucumber, then I wheeled over to the fish section and bought some cooked, peeled prawns.

And I will say this: homemade sushi is actually pretty good. It’s not that hard to do and doesn’t make much of a mess – all you need to cook is the rice and everything else is just an assembly job – I can see if you did it reasonably often you’d get very good at all that rolling.

My problem is with the rice – although I’ve never been good at cooking rice, I’m hoping that results will come with practice. The two times I’ve cooked it now it comes out a bit overcooked and means a slight mushiness in the resultant roll. I now wonder if this might not be because of actual overcooking but allowing the rice to soak for more than the advised 30 minutes prior to boiling.

If you are going to make homemade sushi, then obviously the thing to do is look up a tutorial on YouTube, that is the only way to see properly how to do it, but I also offer the following additional notes:

1 When you cover your sushi mat with cling film, tuck the ends of the film in under the mat, to stop the film ending up getting rolled up inside the sushi, which is not the idea at all.

2 Sushi rice is like fucking concrete. Do not allow it, as I did, to sit in sieves, pots, on knives or sushi mats for more than a few minutes because it wil lliterally superglue itself to any unguarded thing – it’s mental.

3 Do wipe your knife on a wet cloth inbetween cuts of your sushi roll as it will make it all look so nice; if you don’t, little bastard grains of rice will stick to the knife and then stick to the next roll of sushi and look all messy (see photo above).

4 Be generous with your sushi rice seasoning. Plain old rice is awfully boring and I have found that the directions on the back of the seasoning bottle don’t allow for enough.