Tag: pizza

the pizza with the super cornice is (also) gluten-free – Italian Cuisine

The pizza of the Best Pizzaiolo in Naples according to the newspaper "Il Mattino": a contemporary pizza that does not forget the Neapolitan tradition, even gluten-free. Try it in Naples or Pozzuoli

Promenade of Pozzuoli, a step away from Naples, people in queue patiently waiting for their turn to arrive. From Diego Vitagliano he does not book as tradition dictates, but he does not expect much since his restaurant has 310 seats (250 under the Covid-19 regime) and therefore 700 seats a day "when Napoli does not play" turn serene.

There is the smell of sulfur in the air, the Campli Flegrei are just a few steps away, and once you leave the traffic on the coast road, you look out onto the terraces from which you can admire Capri, Capo Miseno and the Port of Baia in Bacoli. Even the former Sofer industrial area in reality, which as a whole gives a true insight into the reality of the place. You don't hear the waves, but the sound of the train that connects Naples to its outskirts.

Diego Vitagliano, the best according to "Il Mattino"

Diego Vitagliano, born in 1985 from Naples, is a name in the pizza scene. He started young as a pizza chef at the behest of his father, at the age of sixteen, because "it's the only job where you will always find work," he told him. Today it has two pizzerias, one in Naples and one in Pozzuoli, with the queue outside and has already collected numerous awards: 21st position 50 Top Pizza in 2019, pizza maker of the year for "Il Mattino" 2019, 3 pizzas for the " L'Espresso ”2019, 2 slices for the“ Gambero Rosso Pizzerie d'Italia Guide ”2019, Young Pizzaiolo of the Year for the“ Flavors of the Republic Guide ”2018, Top 30 2018 Dissapore.

Since 2013 he has undertaken research on dough, experimenting with the pizza "a canotto", the one with the high cornice, which takes up the pizza from Vomero about 50 years ago, but using different techniques for the preparation (such as those used for bread, indirect doughs with biga or poolish). At the time, all of this was considered a passing fashion destined to disappear in a short time. Today, however, we can say that that would have been the future of Neapolitan pizza.

Diego Vitagliano's pizza is good, light and highly digestible, soft with a little crunchiness, made with an indirect dough with a preference of organic type 1, 36-hour leavening, high hydration and a very low amount of salt. But Diego also dedicates particular attention to gluten free pizza with an entirely gluten-free menu with 11 pizzas and 2 appetizers; processed and cooked in an exposed box with oven and dedicated spaces, to avoid any type of contamination.

Homage to the marinara and pizza with meat sauce

The menu is based on tradition: marinara, margherita, montanara and oven-baked calzone are always present. From these historic pizzas come the revisited ones, such as margherinara or ragù. "I make my pizzas based on my memories, because I was lucky enough to grow up with a grandmother who knew how to cook very well, the recipes of the Neapolitan tradition are all present on the menu, revisited on pizza, such as: ragù, Genoese , sautéed meat, in spring the pasta and peas revisited on pizza and much more . And then the fried, crispy and in generous portions, some are traditional Neapolitan, such as the potato crocchè and the bucatini frittatina (also in the seasonal version of Nerano, with zucchini), others are inspired by the best recipes of Italy, such as the arancino. In combination, they offer you a gin and tonic, and it really suits us.

Obviously, all the products and ingredients are chosen with the utmost care, for a story of the Campania region: fresh meats from the Phlegraean Fields, cold cuts from the Bettella farm, fresh cheeses and dairy products from Campania. The only exceptions are: oil, which is the Apulian extra virgin olive oil from Frantoio Muraglia, and flour, from Molino Grassi in Parma (type 1 bio). The whole line of tomatoes, pesto and dried fruit are under the 10Pizzeria brand and come from Terramagna Lab, a project of small Campania producers.

Wine list and gin and tonics

Since December 2019, an important wine list has been added to the classic beers and cokes, with bottles that come mainly from the Campania region, such as Selva Lacandona, a Falanghina produced from the territories confiscated from the Camorra, Gragnano Otto Uve by Salvatore Martusciello, or the wines of Cavalier Pepe estate like Irpinia Rosato. Space also for Franciacortas and Champagne. There is a sommelier in each location. And for the same beers, a large selection from Campania, in particular Kbirr.

Popular prices

Reasonable prices, because even if researched and with top quality ingredients, pizza remains a popular food: antipastini from 1.50 €, Marinara from 6 to 8 € in different versions, creative pizzas that do not exceed 10 €, including creations such as Baccarina with yellow peppers cream, Agerola mozzarella, black olive powder, orange scent, cod in cooking oil and Neapolitan curly basil. Gluten-free pizzas from € 10 and in many versions, including stuffed ones.

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Antonio Pappalardo, the pizza chef who has fun with great chefs – Italian Cuisine

The owner of the Cascina dei Sapori, one of the most famous pizzerias in the North, enjoys making pizzas in collaboration with the kitchen 'signatures'. He has already done it with Riccardo Camanini and Gaggan Anand: here are the two limited editions. Fabulous

We could call him the "pizza maker of surprises". Antonio Pappalardo, chef-patron of the Cascina dei Sapori in Rezzato, betrays the origins of Castellamare di Stabia from the surname, but the pronunciation is far from that of Campania. Born in 1988, he arrived very young in Brescia, initially in Salò and then following his parents at just 19 years of age, he opened a restaurant that in a few years – dedicating himself only to pizza – not only won critical criticism (see the two segments of the Gambero Rosso), but has found favor with an audience that is not easy, well accustomed: just think that in half an hour by car there is the Branch in Erbusco where there is the brigade of the master Franco Pepe. Pappalardo, however, has certainly not decided to close in the province: in December, he will open a restaurant in Brescia in via Gramsci 22, with 55 seats and many interesting ideas starting from the French bistro style environment. "To conquer an exceptional city that doesn't know it is," says Pappalardo.

Pizzas of all types

Cascina dei Sapori is a fun, bright place divided into three rooms. With a well-articulated offer, supplemented by the delicacies prepared by the mother Giusi Pappalardo and by the desserts. A small card for Roman-style slices; one for the fifteen pizzas on the plate (thin in the center and well pronounced cornice, cooked over high heat), composed of wholemeal and semi-wholemeal flours or 80% monococcal and semi-wholemeal spelled or with barley 'mixture; a third for tasting pizzas (compared to the previous one, undergo a further leavening of 4 hours and are cooked over low heat) with wholemeal and semi-wholemeal or semi-wholemeal flour. There is no shortage also on topping, where fine ingredients such as the Iberian paleta and red prawn make their appearance, alongside the classic, flawless ones. The idea of making people appreciate thediversity of the doughs in a 30 euro tasting which rises to 50 with the pairing of wine, instead of the beers which also have a very interesting menu, based on artisans.

The first was Camanini

Pappalardo has a peculiarity: he manages to involve the great chefs in the conception of "limited edition". During the lockdown, he first found collaboration with Riccardo Camanini – chef-patron of Lido 84 and talent of the moment – who added mozzarella fiordilatte, asparagus from the Palli woods, Bagòss and Ras el Hanout, a mixture of spices, plants and Moroccan herbs to his monocoque spelled dough. «I chose to use these ingredients – Riccardo Camanini says – since the presence of summer Bagòss holds up the intense flavor of this type of asparagus very well. Instead the Ras el Hanout spice dazzled me for its history and its taste, with strong aromatic notes and a particular citric freshness . The second "limited edition" was international with the intervention of Gaggan Anand, the Indian chef who won fourth place in the latest The World's 50 Best with the restaurant that bears his name in Bangkok, as well as being the best of the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants from 2015 to 2018, four times in a row and obtaining the recognition of the two Michelin stars.

Indirect dough

"I went to his restaurant in Bangkok six years ago and I have always admired his idea of cooking, but unfortunately I have not had the opportunity to meet him in person – explains Pappalardo – so I wrote to him and over the years he always answered me, until during the lockdown he gave me his availability for this initiative. Gaggan loves pizza, has made himself very proactive, giving inputs for raw materials and how to make the most of them. My job was to make his vision feasible and create a perfect balance for a round pizza between the topping and the indirect dough that I prepared with biga, whole wheat flour and type1 ".

Anand style emoticons

The card was presented in perfect Anand style, inserting the emoticons of the ingredients instead of the names of the ingredients, as the Indian chef does in his menu: fiordilatte mozzarella, yellow peach, fresh anchovies, pine nuts, rosemary, chilli pepper, sweet Gorgonzola, potatoes. "In addition to being something I really cared about as a professional, because we are talking about one of the most influential and revolutionary figures in world cuisine, I also wanted to give a gift to my loyal clientele, who supported us in the lockdown and returned to the club as soon as we reopened – he continues – it seemed nice to let my customers travel a little far at least with the imagination, since it will not be possible to do it again in the coming months . Here is the recipe, for those who want to try to imitate Pappalardo within the walls of the house.

Method

Put extra virgin olive oil and two sprigs of rosemary in a bottle for at least one night. Cut the potatoes into squares of about 1 cm, soak them in cold water for at least 4 hours, dry and fry them in peanut oil. Aside prepare a salad with a brunoise of yellow peaches, pine nuts previously toasted at 180 degrees for six minutes and delicate anchovies marinated overnight in white wine vinegar and then drained from the vinegar and seasoned with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley and chilli pepper .

Roll out the pizza dough and fill it with 80 grams of Agerola fiordilatte mozzarella cut into julienne strips and bake at maximum power in the home oven. Remove from the oven and stuff with the crispy potatoes, the peaches, anchovies and pine nuts salad, fresh chilli pepper, the rosemary infused oil and the sweet Gorgonzola which must be heated in a separate saucepan until it is creamy and poured directly to the table in order to maintain its creaminess, which would be lost if it were baked in the oven.

The stray pizza chef who put the sea on the pizza – Italian Cuisine

Enrico Chambertin's itinerant pizza project stopped at a seafood restaurant in Rome, where the challenge was to study a seafood pizza menu

His name is Enrico Cappuccini, but everyone knows him as Enrico Chambertin, his alter ego social. He was born as a computer consultant, but at some point in his life he was enlightened on the Damascus street of pizza. Which then in Rome is via Ozanam, where the Gatta Mangiona by Giancarlo Casa, his mentor with dough and flour mixes. The project Wandering Pizzas he was therefore born with the advice of the latter and with the complicity of an engineer friend, Carmine Piano, who helped Enrico modify an F1 oven and who accompanies him in the production of pizzas. This is a semi-professional electric oven created for true pizza enthusiasts, but which in the case of Enrico has been made more performing, to reach higher temperatures in less time and get closer to Neapolitan cooking.

Style and pizzas

In conclusion, a kind of dismantled motor like in the eighties, on the saddle to which Enrico goes to the restaurants that host him, even to the houses, bringing his dough and his style. At the base, in fact, there is a blend of organic flours, on which the Sicilian tumminia prevails. The rest does it there long leavening, at least 48 hours, and rapid cooking at very high temperature, in the Neapolitan style. There are classic pizzas, such as margherita, but also those that take their cue from the place where Enrico is at that moment, because the value of Pizze Vaganti is also that of knowing how to adapt to the "culture" of the place.

The last stage of the pilgrimage is almost on the sea route, in via Tiberio Imperatore, in the Eur / Ostiense area: turn the corner and you are on Colombo, where you can run straight on the Pontina and arrive at least in Ostia. But if you stop there is a surprise: the da Michele restaurant, where Enrico is with his pizzas from Thursday to Sunday. In the hall Marco Pignotta, son of the patron who gave the name to this place. Not the classic fish restaurant as it is meant in Rome, we are head and shoulders, because the fish is very fresh, well-worked, with an unpredictable menu and fair prices. Outside the neighborhood almost nobody knew him, until Enrico arrived, with whom shortly after the lockdown they also started delivering the pizzas.

Mussels and pizza and other crazy pizzas

The prolonged stop by Michele gave Enrico the opportunity to multiply the tests, for adapt Michele's workhorses to Enrico's dough. More than successful experiment: if the idea of mussels on pizza gives you the chills it is because you have not tasted stray pizzas and in particular Michele, dedicated to the owner of the restaurant and his workhorse: fior di latte, mussels, pecorino cheese, wild pepper and parsley. In practice it is a reinterpretation of a dish that has always been a cult in Roman fish restaurants: spaghetti with mussels and pecorino.

Then there is the variant with potatoes, mussels, pesto, which is a real treat. P.A.M is a divertissement: provola, smoked herring and apples. But there are also apparently classic pizzas like the Naples, on which the anchovies are raw and cooked very quickly thanks to the heat of the oven, or tuna and ciponne, which is trivially like tuna and onions, but here the onions are from Tropea and are caramelized and the quality of the tuna used, in fillets, is excellent.

Just a note: you have to understand that the oven that Enrico uses is small and allows you to make one pizza at a time, so don't expect everyone to order his pizza and see it appear at the table. The real game of such a menu is to unite a few friends for a nice tasting. Enrico will be with Michele at least until September, even if there is still no precise plan. His pilgrimages can be followed on the Facebook page of the Pizze Vaganti.

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