Tag: pizza

Seven-sheet pizza – Italian cuisine – Italian Cuisine

The stories under the tree. We all have a secret memory of the holidays from when we were children. Maybe like this one, made up of cooking smells, hands-on and chatty aunts. Here is for you one of the stories of our editorial staff taken from the December issue

"Your palms are too hot to make pasta!" If there was a phrase that could offend me during the holidays it was this.

The fact is that when I was a child there was a recipe that stirred the family more than any other and this was the seven-sheet pizza. "Pizza" was mentioned in all phone calls and pre-Christmas family gatherings: "… and who makes pizza this year?".
Because the seven-sheet pizza was "the dessert" of the grandmother's tradition and the grandmother had been missing for a few years and nobody knew the real recipe, with the correct doses and procedure. And maybe no one really wanted to do it, except me.
Of course, a little support was needed, because pizza was, is, really complicated, especially for an elementary school girl. It took the mother, to remember the dough, "But perhaps grandma Rosaria also put a little white wine in it", "No, but this year we add more oil, otherwise it is dry", and dad needed to shell it walnuts, almonds and hazelnuts, to choose raisins, but the big one, the Malaga grape. And then came the advice – not always requested – from the aunts. And that sentence came from them too, while I was kneading with all my strength as a child: "Your palms are too hot to make pasta!"
But in the end each year the pizza was made up, seven layers of nuts, chocolate and spices. Always a little too sweet, or perhaps this year a little dry, and probably a little different from grandmother's each time, but always the stubborn protagonist of our Christmases.

Despite my warm palms.

Pizza di Scarola: a delicious appetizer, a Campanian specialty on Christmas Eve – Italian Cuisine

Solidly anchored to tradition and reassuring in its annual repetition that does not tire, but rather is expected, the escarole pizza is one of the essential specialties of Christmas' Eve, in Naples as in all of Campania. A plate of lean, as is customary, to be enjoyed as a treat while waiting for the dinner that starts late, as an appetizer the same evening or for lunch the next day and so on for all holidays, until New Year's Eve.

In the family they prepared at least two, always available on the sideboard, because the escarole pizza it is also good cold.

A bit of history

The first written documentation of this traditional preparation dates back to the nineteenth century, when it was published in the practical theoretical cooking manual by Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino. The literary aristocrat and gastronome told in Neapolitan dialect the courses of the sumptuous Christmas Eve menu "that if only we use our de 'Napule". A "vruoccoli", vermicelli and fried eels followed the "cod mpasticcio", a sort of shortcrust pastry filled with escarole flavored with garlic, black olives and capers, alternating with layers of fried fish with anchovies and finally baked in the oven in the tiesto (the terracotta casserole also used for meat sauce). Over time, the use of cod has been lost and shortcrust pastry has given way to leavened dough, the same that forms the basis of common round-shaped pizzas. This version (proposed on the following page) is described by Jeanne Carola Francesconi in La cucina napoletana (1965), considered the bible of authentic Neapolitan cuisine after Cavalcanti's recipe book.

The predilection for escarole

It has remained essential and faithful to the original recipe escarole, a winter vegetable with a use so rooted in Campania cuisine (as well as in all southern cuisine) that it gives rise to colorful expressions commonly used in the dialect. Escarole are curly-haired girls, with reference to the curly variety, while "dicere escarole" means talking nonsense, perhaps due to the amount of water they release in cooking. Not surprisingly, the Neapolitans until the eighteenth century, or before the invention of the die and the massive appearance of pasta on their tables, were known as "leaf eaters", due to the prevalence of vegetables in their diet. In confirmation of this predilection, in the seventeenth century the Neapolitan dialectal poet Giulio Cesare Cortese wrote: "My Napoleon, tell whoever wants / don't Napoleon cchiù, yes not aie leaf" Naples, if you have no leaf). Three centuries later, we find the curly endive in broth among Eduardo De Filippo's favorite dishes in the collection of recipes Si cucine cumme vogli'i ', told by his wife by the Neapolitan master. The predilection for escarole The endive, a winter vegetable with a use so deeply rooted in Campania cuisine (as well as in all southern cuisine) has remained essential and faithful to the original recipe as to give rise to colorful expressions commonly used in the dialect. Escarole are curly-haired girls, with reference to the curly variety, while "dicere escarole" means talking nonsense, perhaps due to the amount of water they release in cooking. Not surprisingly, the Neapolitans until the eighteenth century, or before the invention of the die and the massive appearance of pasta on their tables, were known as "leaf eaters", due to the prevalence of vegetables in their diet. In confirmation of this predilection, in the seventeenth century the Neapolitan dialectal poet Giulio Cesare Cortese wrote: "My Napoleon, tell whoever wants / don't Napoleon cchiù, yes not aie leaf" Naples, if you have no leaf). Three centuries later, we find the curly endive in broth among Eduardo De Filippo's favorite dishes in the collection of recipes Si cucine cumme vogli'i '…, told by his wife by the Neapolitan master.

Pizza with lard and tarallo – Italian Cuisine

First of all, prepare the dough: put the flour, sugar and yeast in a bowl, add the water and start working, then add the salt and oil and knead until you get a smooth and homogeneous dough.

Let it rise in a warm place away from currents for at least 2 hours or until doubled.

In the meantime, prepare the fiordilatte by cutting it into thin slices (so that it begins to lose a bit of whey) and coarsely crumble the taralli.

Take the dough back, roll it out into a disc, then place it in a pan lined with parchment paper or lightly greased.
Season with thin slices of lard, a pinch of salt, the fiordilatte and a drizzle of oil.

Bake in a preheated convection oven at 250 ° and cook for about 13 minutes.
When it is almost done, take the pizza out of the oven and add the crumbled tarallo, then cook it for another couple of minutes.

The lard and tarallo pizza is ready, you just have to serve it.

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