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Select, the Venetian aperitif par excellence turns 100 – Italian Cuisine


The iconic bitter by the Pilla brothers, an integral part of the original Venetian Spritz, celebrates its first centenary, paying homage to its beloved lagoon city as always. And the original Spritz recipe

It was 1920. In one Venice animated by the excitement of the first post-war period, two young Bolognese entrepreneurs, Mario and Vittorio Pilla, officially registered the brand of a new product, destined to become a true icon of the lagoon city: Select, an aperitif with a lively red color. A name of great impact, solemn and modern at the same time, which according to some would have been coined by Gabriele D'Annunzio himself using a contraction of the Latin word Selectus, or "chosen", "selected". In fact, as evidenced by some documents of the time, Select would be more simply the acronym of «Liqueurs And Tartar Cream Wine Plant, the San Donà di Piave factory where the bitter in question was initially produced. Beyond the baptismal disputes, in any case, this glorious aperitif blows out its first 100 candles in these months: an important birthday, celebrated with the certainty of having been able to preserve not only the rigor of its original recipe, but also everything the charm of those roots so blatantly lagoon.

The secrets of an iconic aperitif

What we drink & co. we can find inside the iconic bottle of Select is the result of a production process that lasts a total of 9 months. In fact, it starts with a slow maceration of botanicals in a very fine mixture of water and alcohol, we proceed with hot boiling to obtain the extract of the aromatic herbs and finally we move on to distillation in purity to extract the most aromatic part of the herbs. From these three steps, 8 extracts are obtained which, mixed according to the secret recipe, make up the Select formula, whose heart contains the complexity and the many facets of the bitter. The juniper berries, with their fresh and resinous notes, and the rhizome of rhubarb, the part of the plant richest in aromatic components, complete the whole, making Select particularly suitable for mixing.

The Venetian Spritz recipe

The origin of Spritz is lost in the twists and turns of the nineteenth century, when the Austro-Hungarian soldiers on duty in Veneto used to lengthen their glass of wine with a pinch of sparkling water, to make everything slightly lighter. The spread of this habit, however, has led the various Venetian provinces to gradually develop their own personal version of the Spritz, complete with various additions and coded recipes in the following: and yes, as regards the authentic Venetian Spritz we find Select among the official ingredients. Here's what the recipe says.

Venetian Spritz

7.5 cl of Prosecco
5 cl of Select
2,5 cl of Soda / Seltz
1 Green Olive

Fill a wine glass with ice, pour in the Prosecco and add Select. Fill with soda or soda water and garnish with a large green olive.

Between glass art and architecture

The link between Select and the city of Venice, however, goes far beyond the simple toast of 6pm. Marco Ferrari, CEO of Montenegro Group of which Select is an integral part. Thus on the one hand we find the collaboration with the historian Salviati glassworks, who created a collection of 100 limited edition glasses, sold exclusively at the Fondaco dei Tedeschi. On the other hand, however, the decision was announced to want to bring at least a part of Select's production back to the center of Venice itself, within a new experiential space that will be named precisely Ca 'Select. The headquarters will be in a former industrial laboratory in the Cannaregio district, and will extend over an area of ​​650 square meters: the project, signed by the Marcante-Testa studio, provides for the recovery of an industrial building that will reflect – both in architecture and in setting – the unmistakable style of the Venetian aperitif par excellence.

The ciauredda, the dish par excellence of the summer in Cilento – Italian Cuisine

The ciauredda, the dish par excellence of the summer in Cilento


A dish with vegetables from the garden, which has all the flavors and aromas of a summer in Cilento. Tasty, quick and easy to prepare

There is a dish that more than any other contains the essence of a summer in Cilento: the ciauredda. Finding it the same from one house or country to another is practically impossible, since everyone has their own way of preparing it (and calling it). Basically, however, it is a dish always based on seasonal summer vegetables, usually from one's own garden, now in their full flavor.

The origin according to Renato De Falco

Renato De Falco has reconstructed the origin and history of ciauredda in an exemplary way, as well as many other culinary traditions from Campania. Great Neapolitan writer and philologist, he is the author of numerous texts, including Cu ’Na Bona Salute. 10 curious names of Neapolitan dishes, in which he talks about this dish. There cianfotta, he writes, is a delicious rural dish, very rooted in the south, based on peppers, aubergines, potatoes and tomatoes (and, ad libitum, also carrots and zucchini), flavored with garlic, onion, oregano, basil, parsley, salt and pepper. There is a cianfotta from Faicchio and Morcone, in the Benventano area; one in Procida, where it is called bobba; and then the Cilento one. However, it should not be forgotten, he continues, that the home of cianfotta is southern France, in particular Provence, where it takes the name of ratatouille, or potage aux légumes. Today it is also called ciambotta, confirming that its exact étimo is that of champ potage, as endorsed by the Modern Etymological neapolitan Vocabulary, compiled in 2009 by Dale Erwin and Pierino Bello. Furthermore, adds De Falco, it is unfortunate that none of the last thirty-five compilers of Neapolitan dictionaries have reported this word. Only eleven southern gastronomic manuals, out of about 200 written by qualified professionals from 1976 to 2003, speak of cianfotta, ciambotta or ciauredda.

So what is ciauredda?

Ciauredda is a dish based on vegetables, especially the summer ones found in the garden. Let's not forget that in Cilento a subsistence economy still reigns, where much of what is consumed at the table comes from their land or from the animals that are raised during the year. This is precisely what makes it the undisputed homeland of the Mediterranean diet. And in the summer, when the garden is luxuriant with all its seasonal fruits, such as tomatoes, peppers or aubergines, the ciauredda is prepared. It can be done in many different ways, so much so that it is difficult to eat exactly the same identical dish in two houses, even in the same country. But even the name changes after a few kilometers: at the gates of Cilento between Eboli and Battaglia, for example, it is called ciauliello, while from Agropoli to Casalvelino and Ascea we talk about ciambotta. Further east, in towns like Sapri or Vibonati, we will find ourselves facing the ciaurella, while going inland, to Torre Orsaia, it will be the turn of the donut. In the hinterland further north, between Campora, Felitto, Roscigno and Bellosguardo, ciambotta returns, while in Caselle in Pittari, where our recipe comes from, it is called ciauredda. What never changes is the way we eat traditionally: between two slices of bread, in the country side.

The recipe of Filomena Marcieddu di Caselle in Pittari

As you may have understood by now, there are countless versions of this dish, also depending on the vegetables available. Basically there are almost always aubergines, peppers and tomatoes, but then there are those who also add potatoes, green beans, courgettes, friggitelli, as well as garlic or onion. The one that the lady prepares Filomena Marcieddu of Caselle in Pittari remains one of the best ever tried, which is why we asked her for her precious recipe.

Ingredients

2 eggplants
5 peppers
500 g tomatoes
to taste basil and salt
to taste extra virgin olive oil

Method

Cut aubergines, peppers and tomatoes into the desired shape, whether it is into cubes, slices or strips.
Heat a little oil in a pan (in Cilento there is plenty, you can opt for a lighter version) and start cooking the vegetables, preferably separately. Alternatively, better in order of cooking: first the aubergines, then the peppers and finally the tomatoes. Then add them together and sauté everything in the pan for a few minutes.
Add a few basil leaves for an extra summer touch, mix and serve warm or even cold.
Alternatively, place the ciauredda between two slices of bread: the longer you wait, the better it will be because it will have absorbed all the flavor of the vegetables. Ask a few farmers in Cilento for a bit comi sapi u pani 'ciauredda wave!

Pirlo, the brescian aperitif par excellence (don't call it spritz) – Italian Cuisine

Pirlo, the brescian aperitif par excellence (don't call it spritz)


If you are in Brescia and you feel like having a drink, the watchword is Pirlo. Do not be afraid: it is not a dirty word, but the symbolic drink of the city of the Lioness

For me Pirlo equivalent to vagabond evenings with high school friends, in the center of Brescia running from Carmine neighborhood to Piazza Duomo, up to generous evenings with pocket money in the pocket, the rich area of ​​Piazzale Arnaldo.

The best Pirli in my life

The appetizers the most enjoyable were not the evening ones, but those sipped during strategic school burnings, and in those moments we felt we were the champions of the world, free and carefree. Not to mention strikes and demonstrations, which turned into happy hours justified and of duty as well as of law.

And if you have said "gnari * at least once in your life, do we have a Pirlo?" Otherwise rejected or at most sent back to the next trip to Brescia, when you have learned this refrain:

If you are from Brescia and you know it, pass a pirlo
If you are from Brescia and you know it go to pirlone
If you are from Brescia and you know how to prove it you will know
If you are from Brescia and you know it you can * vecio * another pirlo

* For those who have stumbled upon reading in unfamiliar words, here is a brief guide to basic Brescia dialect, which could be useful for a pleasant and highly recommended visit to the city, in order of appearance we find:
Bruciate (voice of the verb burn school) = bigiare, jump, jump, marinate lessons;
Gnari = boys in jargon;
Pota = typical intercalary from Brescia that doesn't mean anything but that goes well with everything;
Vecio = boys in a rough way;

In short, I have had a few aperitif evenings and my faithful fellow drinkers know that I was not doing too badly, once … but now if I decide to take a Pirlone I risk a few slips. However returning to us on Pirlone is nothing more than the jig format of the classic Pirlo, designed for those clever and aware that they already know that a Pirlo alone will never be enough, and so it might as well optimize orders and enjoy aperitif snacks with a nice Pirlone.

Origin of the name

But now let's talk about him, the Pirlo, which has nothing to do either with the footballer (to underline Brescia) or with ugly bad words. The nice name of the Brescia cocktail has its origins in dialect, the term "pirlo" comes from verb pirlare which in Brescia means fall, overturn. In this case it is the sweet fall of Campari (or Aperol) in white wine, although, according to tradition, a local bitter similar to Vermouth was used in the past, to be added to white wine, not always of great quality, which is so it turned into a pleasant drink.

Pirlo Brescian recipe

Inredienti
1 part of Campari, 2 or 3 of still white wine, sparkling mineral water, 1 lemon or orange rind

Preparation
In a glass (baloon, tulip or bar tumbler) pour a part of Campari (for those who wanted it lighter, Aperol is allowed, although the classic recipe requires Campari) and two or three parts of still white wine, usually the Lugana, typical of Lake Garda, precisely in the area between Lombardy and Veneto, between the countries of Desenzano and Peschiera. Add a splash of carbonated water or soda water, a lemon or orange peel and drink in company.

Pirlo VS Spritz

The difference is not immediate, in fact the two cocktails are very similar, very close relatives to whom it is not easy to attribute the degree of kinship. There dispute between Brescia and Venice about who invented it first is a bit like asking, "was the chicken or the egg born first?" But fortunately the international classification of Iba cocktails came to our rescue by closing the diatribe and declaring the Pirlo father of the Veneto spritz, the Venetian spritz, from which it stands out only for the use of wine, in the Brescia version use the still wine and in that one Venetian the prosecco.

In 2017 it was even declared drink of the year by the New York Times and the unknown Pirlo from Brescia managed to become famous in the big apple, almost more than in Italy.

For this time I will not give you any recommended address, I prefer you live in Brescia as you please, each bar is good for taking a Pirlo stop and teasing two chips and more (rich buffet aperitifs and aperitifs in effect). You will hardly be disappointed by the barman or preparation because the cocktail is really very simple. But if you really need two tips to go without fail, you can't miss the Carmine district, which from an infamous place to avoid on foot has in recent years turned into an area of ​​Brescia's nightlife, where you can spend epic evenings with friends, going from one place to another with ease and between a chat and a pirlo, a pirlo and a chat to make late night arrive.

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