Tag: South

Michelin Guide 2022: the new stars of the South – Italian Cuisine


The 2022 Michelin Guide has announced the new stars and Southern Italy is the winner. Lots of news, including the only woman – and also very young

The Michelin Guide 2022 has announced its new stars. Among the novelties of the “Rossa” 2022, the southern Italy today shines more than ever. From Campania to Calabria, these are the southern chefs who have conquered a space in the Olympus of haute cuisine.

What a beautiful fresh air

Just 6 months after opening, Aria Restaurant to Naples got his first Michelin Star with the chef Paolo Barrale: «Such recognition is a source of immense joy but at the same time represents a gauntlet: we must always give our best to make a difference. A bit like it happens with children: there is a specific responsibility to follow them in everything and make them grow in a healthy and diligent way ", commented the young Sicilian chef. The Aria project, signed by the JCo Group, is a goal that Barrale shares with his entire team, from the brigade to the staff in the dining room (and in the family): "From Mario Stellato, my sous chef, to Giacomo who introduced me to the splendid family that is the J co Group, to Ilaria and Maurizio, to Letizia, Danilo, Angelo, Mario R., Luigi and Gianluigi. Thanks to Serena De Vita, our restaurant manager, to Mattia, Marcello, Chiara, Andrea, Mirko and Camilla. Finally, thanks to my friends and customers of all time but above all I want to say thanks to Marina, my only and irreplaceable life partner .

And there are those who doubles

We always stay in Campania, this time with the restaurant Krèsios from Telese Terme, in the Benevento area, which wins its second Michelin star. After the first obtained in 2013, always reconfirmed, the chef and patron Giuseppe Iannotti doubles and consolidates Krèsios among the most interesting gastronomic realities of the moment. “I'm also happy for my kids, whom I let down and who knew nothing. Perhaps this was the hardest thing for me: looking them in the eye and not being able to share all this, ”commented the chef. And he added: "We never stopped, even in the most difficult moments, we never got scared. Rather we have continued with our heads down, with the awareness of having responsibilities and we have continued to do what we know, to create new paths and invent solutions. This is the strength of Krèsios: to undertake unexplored paths and create new routes, when the known and comforting ones have closed. It is the strength of a group that for me is my family. We have cleared customs for a method: finally in Italy you can only do one tasting itinerary, ours is in the dark .

The twist

Surprisingly, the double star arrives without going through the route (i.e. without any mention) also for Giovanni Solofra of the restaurant Three Olives from Paestum (SA) that with tears in his eyes the first person he thanked is Roberta, his wife. Awarded for its sensorial and territorial gastronomic interpretation, for its proposals hyenas of surprises, the fine technique and the minuteness and precision of the combinations, often intriguing.

My Calabria

Going further south, the recognition of the prestigious guide also goes to Antonio Biafora for his Hyle, to San Giovanni in Fiore (CS) which wins its first star. And to think that the young chef has begun his adventure first in the kitchen of the family restaurant, "where I performed the first service during a graduation party, and the second in Caserta, at the kitchens of the Grand Hotel Vanvitelli. As soon as I got there I asked to start immediately, in front of me I had: parsley, potatoes and tomatoes . When the quality is recognized by the basic ingredients and by the skill with which to know how to combine them harmoniously, the rest is only a matter of time.

Fresh from the star too Luigi Lepore of the restaurant of the same name in Lamezia Terme (CZ) which, after the important experiences at the Trussardi alla Scala in Milan, at the Caino in Tuscany, at Il Comandante in Naples, among others, in 2019 began to write a new e, to do so, he chose his home, his Calabria. But with an innovative format, with broad horizons and, at the same time, with firm roots in the material cultures that characterize the territory's identity. Despite the "hiatus" of 2020, he is today celebrating his "coronation".

All the new 2022 Michelin stars in Southern Italy

Luigi Lepore – Luigi Lepore Restaurant

Hyle – Antonio Antonio Biafora

Aria – Paolo Barrale

Giuseppe Molaro – Contaminations Restaurant

Savio Perna – Li Galli

Francesco Franzese – Rear Restaurant

Nicola Somma – Cannavacciuolo Countryside

Fabio Verrelli D’Amico – Marter1aPr1ma

Alessandro Bellingeri – Osteria Acquarol

Stephan Zippl – 1908

Graziano Cacciappoli – San Giorgio

Jorg Giubbani – Orto by Jorg Giubbani

Sergeev Nikita – The Arcade

Richard Abouzaki and Pierpaolo Ferracuti – Background

Emanuele Petrosino – Bianca on the Lake

Fabrizio Molteni – La Speranzina Restaurant & Relais

Alex and Vittorio Manzoni – Osteria degli Assonica

Salvatore Camedda – Somu

Claudio Sadler – Gusto by Sadler

* Young of the Year Award to Solaika Marrocco del Primo, from Lecce

Congratulations!

Opening photo Krèsios (ph Marco Varoli)

South Tyrolean breads: ancient recipes and flours for timeless flavors – Italian Cuisine

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We went on a journey through the valleys of South Tyrol to discover traditional bakeries, their most typical products and the millenary history that intertwines agriculture and white art




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Enclosed by majestic mountains, theSouth Tyrol jealously guards gastronomic traditions whose origin is lost in the mists of time. One of the most fascinating is that of bread and of flours rustic with which, in the area of South Tyrol, has been kneaded for millennia.

Traces of Emmer were found among the mummified remains of Ötzi, the shepherd who lived in these areas more than five thousand years ago. While of the rye We have news since 800 BC, when it seems to have come from distant Asia Minor, only to find fertile ground in these areas and become one of the most used cereals for white art, as bread making is called.

Even today, rye is widely cultivated, often by the same bakers who collect and grind it in their mills. Some even use machinery dating back to the late nineteenth century, such as the svecciatoio in the photo, which is still in operation on the farm today Roatnocker from Georg Weiss, high Val di Non, which separates the beans according to shape and size.

Among the specialties baked daily in South Tyrolean bakeries are the Paarl, loaves kneaded with rye and spelled that change according to the mix of flours that compose them. So, for example, they are called Vollkotnpaarl those entirely of wholemeal rye.

They are called instead Urpaarl the breads of pure rye typical of Val Venosta, the "granary" of Tyrol. The prefix "Ur" recalls the ancient city of Mesopotamia, the cradle of cereal. There eight shape, obtained from the union of two rounded loaves, symbolizes the union of marriage (in the photo, the offer to the bakery of Peter Schuster in Laudes, in Val Monastero).

The technique with which the thin discs of the Schüttelbrot: the dough is placed on one circular shovel which is made to rotate, by the skilled hands of the baker, until it widens and thins at the right point.

The result is round, low, toasted and very crunchy bread, the emblem of South Tyrol and typical of every production.

The distinctive taste of Schüttelbrot, Paarl and other specialties is given by the trigonella, an aromatic herb that grows in the mountains and produces pale blue flowers.

After the harvest, the trigonella comes dried and ground. The scent is halfway between anise and cumin: the latter, moreover, is also part of the bouquet used in typical recipes.

Among the seeds that enrich the preparations, those of pumpkin and those of sunflower, used for large loaves, small rolls, crunchy cracker (in the photo, those of Furnaria Seppi, in Val Badia). The seeds of poppy.

There puccia is a characteristic specialty of Ladin community, settled in the valleys surrounding the Sella dolomitic group. The traditional loaf of these areas is mixed with 70 percent rye flour and 30 percent wheat and there is also a dry and flat version.

Not just rye: also the wheat flour finds greedy application. For example in the Laugenbrot which, like the classic German and Austrian pretzels, are immersed in a soda bath which makes the crust brown and shiny.

They are light in color and quite soft, again due to the presence of wheat flour, even i Puschtra Breatl, round and low loaves. In the photo, one of the loaves baked in the bakery laboratory Feichter to Dobbiaco, high Val Pusteria.

In short, the doughs and shapes of the loaves change from valley to valley and from village to village. And there is no shortage of contaminations such as the use of flours that come from afar (in the photo, a spelled bread and Sicilian Timilia flour from Merano Ivo de Pellegrin).

To enrich the proposal of South Tyrolean bakeries, even one pastry shop simple but delicious. How to resist the Biscuits double, stuffed with jam?

When it is season, here comes the raisin bread. Less sweet than you might think, it is suitable for breakfasts and snacks also, why not, in combination with salty ingredients.

Finally, it is inevitable apple strudel, symbolic delight of South Tyrol. According to the traditional recipe, the delicious filling is wrapped in a casket of shortcrust pastry crumbly. One bite is enough, and the oven is served.

The addresses
Roatnocker farm, Weiss family, Obere Innere 12, Senale San Felice (BZ), telephone 3487686627
Bäckerei Schuster, Laudes 139, Malles Venosta (BZ), phone 473831340
Furnaria Seppi, Strada Col Alt 34, Corvara in Badia (BZ), telephone 0471 836 863
Bauernhof Familie Feichter, Zipfanger 1, Dobbiaco (BZ), telephone 0474972324
Ivo De Pellegrin oven, Via delle Corse 141 °, Merano (BZ), telephone 3338593629

Photo by Felice Scoccimarro for the reportage made for Sale & Pepe by Riccardo Lagorio
September 2021

Posted on 09/28/2021

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The 10 best panettone of the Central South – Italian Cuisine

The 10 best panettone of the Central South


From Rome down, the panettone becomes creative and anchored to the territory in the ingredients and recipes, which are often mixed with traditional local sweets. There are also some virtuous examples of pandoro

When they hear that the panettone, the doc Milanese still twist their noses a little. Yet, in an era of globalization, it is not so strange that under the Rubicon there are fine confectioners who prepare great Christmas leavened products. And many of these have received awards that have rewarded their commitment to reproducing the traditional Christmas dessert. All in a strictly artisanal way, sometimes in a philological way, other times with more creative recipes. We have selected a few. It does not want to be a ranking, but only a suggestion for the tastings of the holidays, also because never as in this case the taste is subjective and is also based on the style you prefer. And there is no shortage of pandori for those who prefer the Veronese star dessert.
All the panettone selected can be easily purchased, as well as in the respective stores, even in the online shops, which have become increasingly efficient in delivering. In the main cities of Italy, most of these panettone are also present in the catalog of What I bring and they can be ordered regardless of origin, with guarantees on the shelf life, making sure that production is as close as possible.

The Roman “leaveners”

In Rome, a tough fight has been fought for several years for the perfect panettone. In the Capitoline area there are both confectioners and bakers of great respect: all experts in leavening, test after test have refined the technique. In the team of bakers there are certainly two most illustrious representatives: the Roscioli brothers on one side and Gabriele Bonci on the other.
From their bakery in via dei Chiavari, i Roscioli brothers they defend themselves both with the classic panettone and with pears and chocolate, while to order they tease true gourmets with a sweet / savory version with walnuts and truffles. Traditional and almond: the "Pizza hero" Gabriele Bonci instead, he tries his hand only with the great classic of Christmas pastry, bringing all his experience of perfect leavening into the dough.
There are also two pastry chefs "competing" to win the prize for the best panettone in the city. From Crane Five different varieties are available: there is the classic and there are the "creative" ones, including Italian Espresso, Gianduioso, Pecan, Pear and Chocolate. To make them special, soft, fragrant and highly digestible, there are two main factors: the slow and natural leavening thanks to the use of mother yeast, treated by Marta Boccanera and Felice Venanzi day after day, and the raw materials, all of the highest quality.
From Manfredi house the months of lockdown were an opportunity for Giorgia Proia to improve herself, with the collaboration of pastry chef Andrea Tortora, who helped her refine the recipes in time for Christmas. Not only panettone, both classic (with Avola almonds, made with French butter and high quality candied fruit) and Cubo chocolate (double dark and milk chocolate inside, cocoa glaze with cocoa grit and Piedmont IGP hazelnuts , and cocoa dough), but also pandoro, to please those of the pandoro team with a buttery cuddle flavored with Bourboun vanilla from Madagascar.

A gem outside Rome

Not in the city, but not too far away because we are in Ciociaria, there is Dolcemascolo pastry shop in Frosinone, which has just celebrated thirty years of activity. It offers five references: the classic version that enriches the traditional Milanese recipe with home made candied orange and citron; the dark chocolate flavor with Valrhona chocolate chips or its chocolate and pear variant that balances the irresistible combination of the bitterness of cocoa and the sweetness of pears; the panettone with red fruits from Ciociaria, which enhances the territory, the only one available even in summer; finally the pandoro with an intense yellow color.

The kings of panettone in Campania

Also in Campania there is no shortage of pastry chefs who have been trying their hand at Milanese dessert for years, often reworking it and creating hybrids. This is the case with the lamentation Alfonso Pepe, whose pastry of Salerno, despite the disappearance of the progenitor, continues to churn out panettone nonstop. Here the references are innumerable and especially in the creative versions reflect in the ingredients the strengths of the territory: white figs from Cilento, cream and buffalo milk, apricots from Vesuvius, limoncello. Particularly the version that mixed the panettone dough with the filling of the pastiera: the result is an even tastier leavened product than the panettone that brings Christmas and Easter together.
Extremely linked to the territory too Pietro Macellaro, which with its Cilento agricultural pastry brings to everything the heart of its land does. Suffice it to say that all its Christmas leavened products have a fundamental ingredient that characterizes them and makes them particularly enveloping: buffalo butter. In fact, even in the classic panettone, Pietro Macellaro's signature is the use of this ingredient, to which other typical Cilento products and recipes are added in the creative versions. The Aubergine, pistachio and chocolate panettone is exemplary, in which we find the taste of a classic Campania dessert, the aubergines with chocolate.
Always from Salerno, but this time from the Amalfi Coast, he arrives Sal De Riso, with its famous super creative panettone. The Cilento panettone is prepared with buffalo butter and stuffed with dried white figs infused with rum, walnuts, candied orange and wild fennel; one of its classics is ricotta and pears, where you can find a mix with the famous cake of the pastry chef from Minori, who celebrated his 20 years; also characteristic is the limoncello one, stuffed and glazed with a delicious limoncello cream and lemon peel from the Amalfi coast.
Deviation in the Avellino area (but we are on the border with the province of Salerno) to taste the panettone of Raffaele Vignola of the patisserie of the same name, which this year won the selection of King Panettone with its Milanese classic. For those with a sweet tooth, it also has a couple of versions with chocolate and a more “territorial” version with PGI annurca apple and cinnamon. For those who prefer salty, Vignola has also created a Gastronomico Irpino panettone with pancetta, capocollo, stretched and soppressata and Irpinia caciocavallo.

From Puglia to Basilicata

In San Marco in Lamis, a municipality in the province of Foggia, for several years Antonio Cera and his team of splendid deans, the two aunts plus his mother, are teaching their Panterrone, which this year was also chosen by the starred chef Viviana Varese for a Christmas collaboration on the San Marco-Milan axis. The Panterrone of Sammarco oven was created to enhance the products of the Apulian territory and is a conceptually poorer version, because it starts from peasant ingredients such as burnt wheat, but very rich in taste and the result of painstaking work in the choice of raw materials and combinations, sometimes daring. To give a few examples, there is the one with Celline di Nardò olives, Podolica cow butter and chocolate; King Lampascione, precisely with candied lampascioni; that of burnt wheat with figs. The candied fruits are strictly home made and the citrus fruits are from Gargano, then there is also Panterrolio, which is the vegan version, in which butter and eggs have been replaced with extra virgin olive oil.
Another pastry chef is instead in Potenza and he is Vincenzo Tiri. His traditional panettone has received an avalanche of prizes, probably thanks to the innovation of the process that from two mixing phases was brought to three, for 72 hours of leavening. Added to this are the taste of Diamante cedar and Lucanian staccia orange, whose candying takes place directly in the laboratory in open-air tanks. Only three “creative” versions, whose basic recipe is still that of the traditional panettone: coffee and white chocolate; apricot and gianduia; salted caramel.

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