From the Alps to Siena: this was the subtitle of the first Italian Michelin Guide, published in 1956: the French managers – just 30 years after the publication of the volume dedicated to France – had considered it appropriate to look at the Italian cousins. First by assessing the country just above the Gothic Line and the following year by sending inspectors to the entire peninsula. But the debut in the parlor of international gastronomy dates back to 1959: for the first time, Italy got single stars and not even a few, if we look closely. The 89 Stars of that memorable edition can make you smile thinking about the 374 places with at least one star reported a year ago, but you have to think about what our kitchen was 60 years ago, in a country that has recently discovered the convenience of appliances (but it is still far the time of frozen foods) and looked curiously at the opening of the first Esselunga supermarket in Milan, in 1957 in viale Regina Giovanna, which allows you to find specialties from all over Italy. This was practically impossible at the time, where the products that can be purchased are only seasonal, fresh and local. When you want to eat away from home, you go to a trattoria, where you can taste regional dishes: made at their best, but not so superior to those that the house cooks make every day.

There was also a pizzeria

This is why scrolling through the list of 89 starred stars of 1959, the vast majority of places are of local and almost popular cuisine. Places for rich or bourgeois cuisine are rare: Vittorio al Mare in Genoa; Gatto Nero and Caval 'd Brons in Turin; Savini, 'In Riccione and Giannino in Milan; 12 Apostles in Verona; Locanda Cipriani and Antico Martini in Venice; Parrot in Bologna; Fini in Modena; Sabatini in Florence; Alfredo alla Scrofa in Rome; La Bersagliera and Umberto in Naples. Curiosity: people continue to debate whether or not Michelin should also reward pizzerias. Well, in 1959 Umberto served Neapolitan cuisine and pizzas …

The return of the 12 Apostles

Many of the 89 are still in business, often at normal levels and in any case frequented by those who love classicism or by tourists (primarily foreigners). There have been major exits like Fini, which had reached the double star in 1969, when Michelin decided to award nine in Italy. One of these was Gourmet in Milan, born from a dream of the legendary commendator Alberto Alemagna – precisely that of the panettone brand – and which closed its doors four years later due to the crisis of the confectionery company. Many have changed management. Others, still, although very far from that Star, remain iconic as is the case of the Milanese Bice and Antica Trattoria della Pesa. There is no shortage of venues being relaunched after a long stasis. One of them is working well to get back to where it was: 12 Apostles, always in the hands of the Gioco family, but which has put a hand to the environment and the cuisine, today defined as contemporary Veronese. With a good chef back home after great experiences – such as Mauro Buffo – regained the Star in the 2019 edition. The goal is to repeat it as happened in 1969.

85 years of history

But there is a place that has made an incredible exploit: it was starred in 1959 and still is. Apart from two years at the end of the 1990s, he never lost it, but above all it remained practically the same as the time of the first Red. IS Arnaldo-Gastronomic Clinic in Rubiera, ten minutes from the Modena Nord exit, even if it is in the province of Reggio Emilia. Rustic-elegant style in the environment, authentic vintage in the furnishings, managed by the grandson of mythical founder Arnaldo Degoli, born in 1907 and a musician, who opened the restaurant in 1936. Reading the menu takes you back 60 years: erbazzone and cracklings, cappelletti in broth and tagliatelle, the (mythical) boiled meat cart and Bolognese cutlet, grandmother's pudding and cardinal pears with eggnog. "The real problem, believe me, is finding products that match the recipes," he explains Roberto Bottero, chef and owner together with his wife Romina Astolfi. «Because I continue to prepare the dishes following what the previous cooks taught me, touching them as little as possible. My loyal customers would not forgive me, but the funniest thing is that in the last year in the room I have seen many young, satisfied. I really think it's no coincidence: there is a return to simplicity, tradition and gluttony. At least in the province, you can feel it .

Five tasting

Now, Arnaldo is not the only one among the 374 starred restaurants that holds the taste bar steady. Here and there in Italy there are still oases of mere tradition (well executed) surrounded by the restaurants of career young people and sacred monsters where at least the reinterpretation is in force, but above all one thrives on creativity, contamination, avant-garde. But no one can boast about sixty seasons in which to proudly display the red plaque outside. "But we don't live our commitment in contrast to our colleagues who make a totally different cuisine", continues Bottero. “Everyone must follow their own path, trying to please the customers who are the only wealth. I also like big clubs: I love Dal Pescatore for example. And I respect the greats: Massimo Bottura recently came to us and his compliments for the Sponged (ed, lasagna rich in béchamel, cheeses and morel sauce: a recipe from Degoli) have honored me ". five tasting menus, three – only for groups of over ten people – bear the names of Arnaldo, Anna (the daughter) and Roberto. After all, at Le Calandre there are the Raf and Max menus …

About the doctors

But you will sleep peacefully first of the forthcoming presentation of the Red, on 25 November? “No, for sure. It is normal because it would be a pity to lose it after so many years, but we know we are an exception as a type of venue. Then, I am sure we would not lose our customers: the danger is to cook badly and lose the hospitality that is the basis of our work for us. Arnaldo is a home, so much so that we also have hotel rooms ", continues Bottero. The curiosity remains of the sign that reads alongside the name of the founder Gastronomic Clinic. During the 1960s, the place was very popular with doctors from the Modena Polyclinic. Degoli loved to joke, saying that everyone left their clinic sad, while in his clinic the patients came out happy, because instead of the medicine and IV trolleys there were those of cured meats and boiled meats. From the pun to the addition even in the company name: Clinica Gastronomica Arnaldo srl, registered (still) to Arnaldo Degoli and Figlie. Yup, in Rubiera, time has stopped and we also wish the Red Michelin 2021. A place like this – if it maintains its current level, of course – must be starred for life.