Smiles, humility, technique and a team of close-knit young people: the announced success of Antonio Ziantoni, Ida Proietti and Christian Marasca, who have conquered the only new star in Rome with their restaurant in Trastevere
When a couple of years ago he opened this beautiful restaurant in the heart of Trastevere, a stone's throw from Piazza San Cosimato, we had already had the opportunity to talk about a gourmet revolution that was experiencing that somewhat secluded side of a tourist district, but also definitely alive in the capital. Immediately Antonio Ziantoni and the delightful Ida Proietti, his partner in work and in life, had made it clear that they wanted to aim high.
And if at the beginning everyone was talking about the fact that he was one of the "Genovese boys", the boys who grew up professionally in the kitchens of Pagliaccio (the only two-star restaurant in Rome), it soon became clear that not only Antonio Ziantoni was one of the best, but also that his project was probably the one that best suited Michelin's ethical and aesthetic standards. A creative and technically flawless cuisine, a room managed with grace by Ida, who set it all up an informal elegance, with a nice equipment e a cellar more than at the height. Youth and smiles to season everything, with a healthy competitive attitude (they never hid that the goal was the star), but with humility. All sweetened by the pastry shop by Christian Marasca, which alone has earned a delivery and take-away line in the darkest moments of the pandemic.
From here to star, complete with an honorable mention as Young Chef 2021, it took too long, because those who live and attend restaurants in Rome had already had this group of young talents under their lens for some time. After 2019 of understandable caution, in the last edition many had said: "Too bad, it will be for next year". In between there was a pandemic, the fear that the projects of enterprising young people like Antonio and Ida could go up in smoke, between one lockdown and another.
Finally the recognition they were waiting for has arrived, to give a well-deserved breath of fresh air, because you can bet that Zia will be sold out at the evening reopening. Those who have already been there will certainly go and seek out the sensations of very successful dishes such as veal sweetbread, three milks and tomato, or the oyster that goes with cucumber and gin in summer and goes well with cabbage and nerves in winter. In the first courses the pasta is strictly homemade and a risotto can never be missing (now the one with buffalo, lemon and gentian is on the menu), while among the latter the choice falls easily on the the civet pigeon, which is now a signature dish. The desserts, as mentioned, deserve a separate mention: an ups and downs of memories, from babà to millefeuille, where however the technique of another great young professional prevails, Christian Marasca.
Last but not least, here you have a starry experience a more than competitive prices, even low for the capital. The five-course tasting menu is € 55, the seven-course menu is € 75. It is hoped that they will manage to maintain these near-crisis prices. For now only for lunch, from Wednesday to Sunday, hopefully soon also for dinner.