La Ciuìga is a symbol of the extreme poverty of these lands, far from the most classic and famous iconography of Trentino. But what exactly is it? And where is it?
That of Ciuìga is a delicate matter, one must be careful to talk about it. It grips the spirits because for centuries it has fed them, creating seemingly indissoluble dramas. The hot topic is, as often happens, belonging, since from the area of Banale the only and only origin is claimed, now also protected by the Slow Food Presidium; but similar voices also come from the nearby Bleggio. But in the end this product has a great belonging to the territory of the Giudicarie Valleys, due to its external precision, which includes both areas. Here the families have produced Ciuìga for years, as a symbol of the extreme poverty of these lands, far from the most classic and famous iconography of Trentino. Today it has become more of a souvenir, something to try and take home from outside, they say: "At home we will eat them at most twice a year …".
What is the Ciuìga
La Ciuìga is a salami that is so called because it recalls the shape of the pine cone, which in local dialect is called ciuìga. But el par na ciuìga! In the past it was prepared with the less noble parts of the pig, such as lungs, liver, head, heart and other various offal, since the best cuts were sold. Today the Ciuìga has been "innobilita" with other parts and is prepared with throat, shoulder, pancetta and coppa, with the addition of which it distinguishes it from all the other salamis and that makes it a unique salami in Italy: the turnip, very common in Trentino, which makes volume by deceiving eye and stomach; this is cooked, minced, then squeezed to eliminate water and put under vacuum waiting for the preparation of the salami. Over time, the proportions were reversed and from about 80% turnip to 30%, with a greater quantity of meat. In the past it was also much redder due to the presence of blood, now completely absent. The other ingredients are salt, pepper, garlic, spices and white wine. Once stuffed and tied, it is smoked in a room without a fireplace with a fire fed with juniper branches, whose aromas characterize the final product. The production period goes from October, when the turnips are ready and there is starting to be a colder climate favorable to the preparation of cold cuts, until April.
How it is consumed
La Ciuìga is eaten boiled (for about fifteen minutes, after piercing it), sliced and served with boiled potatoes, better if from the nearby Lomaso and with the peel. This is the traditional recipe, that of the grandparents who have traditionally been preparing for ever. Alternatively, when more seasoned, it can also be eaten raw, without needing to be cooked, just like any other salami that will be recognizable by the strong smell and taste of smoking.
Over time, other more original combinations have been born, such as the umzotto alla ciuìga, the polenta and porcini timbale, the gnocchi with gorgonzola, the tagliatelle with walnuts, or the accompaniment with the classic canederli. One of the most original and interesting dishes is the ciuìga in brioche bread with walnuts, where the salami is rolled into the dough, brushed with egg yolk and baked in the oven.
La Ciuìga Del Banale and the Brenta Cooperative Family
La Ciuìga has always been Banale's snack. Just take a trip to some taverns in San Lorenzo in Banale, the heart of the production, to find it again with bread, potatoes and a glass of wine as a classic snack. According to the stories of the oldest in the country, it was invented here in the late nineteenth century by a local butcher, Palmo Donati, who then passed the baton to that Eugenio Baldassari in exchange for a supply of 2 grams of meat per day. Today the families that produce it privately have remained in a few, as the owner of the Brenta Dolomites Restaurant; the only producers that can market it are those of the Cooperative Family, of which Martino is the most pulsating soul. In this regard it is interesting to know that the Cooperation in Trentino was born precisely in the Giudicarie Es myself, in 1890, thanks to Don Guetti and Antonio Prudel who founded mutual aid cooperatives, in which those who had money available could invest for the benefit of the less well off. Among these, the Brenta Cooperative Family, still active, organizes every November for about 14 years the Festival in honor of this product, with which more than any other in the Banale, they identify themselves; in recent years it has also become a Slow Food Presidium with the aim of increasing production while maintaining the traditional technique. And always in San Lorenzo there is also a wonderful path in his honor.
La Ciuìga del Bleggio
To tell the truth, it will not be the original or the Presidium, but also in the neighboring area of Bleggio, better known for its nuts, Ciuìga is produced: it is more delicate, less spicy and smoked, and because, according to its producers, they prefer to enhance the flavor of turnip; both because they tend to consume it more immediately after preparation, therefore not needing smoking to preserve it over time.
Where to find them (in peace)
There are some places that have decided to bring together the two versions of Ciuìga, such as the Osteria Fiore by Poia di Comano, where the chef Silvio proposes both in a dish, served with boiled potatoes. At the Don Pedro restaurant instead we find the Ciuìga del Banale in a pizza that is a hymn to the products of the Giudicarie area: the De Val, with Lomaso potatoes and Bleggio nuts.
"Stickers that must always be found in the suburbs venghino should be dear avantors sentiré boni saori tut prodoti de la nosa tera" (Bruna Orlandi, 90 years).