Tag: taste

Persimmon: how to choose them and how to taste them – Italian Cuisine

The autumn table has the warm shades of orange and forest green, just the colors of the khaki, certainly among the symbolic fruits of the season and that we find easily in this period at the market. Be careful to call them correctly: in the common parlance they often say "caco" but the correct name, both in the singular and in the plural, is khaki because it is the Italianization of the Japanese name "Kaki no ki", with which the Diospyros kaki, or the persimmon tree. It is a fruit tree native to the Far East, arrived in Europe in the eighteenth century, initially as an ornamental plant and only later cultivated for its fruits, which are rich in sugars, minerals, vitamins (A, B and C) and important amino acids.

Where it is grown
In Italy, persimmon is cultivated mainly in Agro Nocerino (in Campania), in Emilia Romagna, in Veneto and in Sicily. It is harvested in the fall, from the end of October to December and is strictly seasonal because, once ripe, it must be consumed immediately as it deteriorates quickly. Technically it is one berry, has the size of an apple, with peel and flesh of color between yellow and orange very bright, which can be more creamy or compact depending on the different types.

Soft pulp and compact pulp
The most widespread varieties in our country are the Lotus of Romagna, which has a soft and almost gelatinous pulp, and the Vanilla of Campania, from the pulp more firm than that of Lotus and of a more brownish color. Then there is the type of apple persimmon, among which they are particularly appreciated Fuyu, Suruga, O'Gosho and Jiro. Apple persimmons have a thinner skin, lighter color and a very compact and almost crisp pulp, characteristics that make them, as the name suggests, similar to apples. THE apple persimmon they are having a growing success because, thanks to their particular consistency and to a lower sugar content than the soft version; they can also be used in savory preparations. At the supermarket, the different varieties are found at an average price between 2.50 and 3 euros per kilogram.

The right maturation
After harvesting (and even after purchase, if they are not completely ripe), the persimmons must undergo the phase of "Astringency", that is, aging in the box. It is a necessary step because the not perfectly ripe persimmon is rich in tannins that give it a taste between bitter and sour and make it attractive, that is unpleasantly astringent on the palate.
To accelerate the ripening phase, the fruits are placed in wooden boxes or in wicker baskets alternating with apples; the ethylene released by the latter is absorbed by the persimmons, making sure that the tannins are transformed into sugars and, therefore, the pulp becomes softer and pleasantly sweet. Unlike the case of apple persimmons, very poor in tannins, which are consumable even when freshly picked.

How to choose them
At the time of purchase, if you choose khaki already fully ripe, you must check that the fruits are soft to the touch, but completely devoid of dents, and do not have dark spots. This is a very important test because the persimmon tends to deteriorate easily. If, on the other hand, they are lightly unripe, they should be left to mature in a dark and dry place resting on the side with the petiole. In any case, once ready, they must be consumed immediately, or placed in the lower part of the refrigerator, where they are stored for a maximum of three days.

Use in the kitchen
When they are at the right level of ripeness, persimmons are already one dessert perfect to taste simply taking the pulp with a teaspoon directly from the fruit. The particular softness of the persimmons makes them perfect for preparing puddings or sauces to accompany ice cream or desserts like the chestnut mousse with persimmon sauce or the bavarese with persimmon coulis. Less usual but equally delicious cakes is tarts to persimmons. Another classic use of the softer and more gelatinous varieties is the preparation of jams, which require shorter cooking times than those of other fruit. Persimmon persimmon? Why not, try them in the carpaccio of persimmon with spicy gorgonzola, rocket and hazelnuts or in the fontina croquettes with brioche bread and persimmon jam, an explosion of flavor! Apple persimmons are ideal to use to enrich salads; in pastry, however, their consistency makes them ideal for decorations.

Alessandro Gnocchi
October 2016
updated in October 2018 by Claudia Minnella

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the five stages of taste

Città della nebbia, a secret ingredient of coppa, pancetta and salami, is the place to eat tortelli with its tail, pisarei and fasò and anolini in brodo. Here's where to go, for a gastronomic shopping and to try the best trattorias

To understand the gastronomy of a city, it can sometimes be useful to study its geography. Piacenza, Emilia. Border city. Lambita north from the river Po, which separates it from nearby Lombardy. Not far from Piedmont to the west and from Liguria to the south. Projected east towards the Italian Food Valley, of which it is the principle. Beautiful with the sun, even more with the fog, the real secret ingredient of its famous sausages, cup, salami is bacon. Perhaps less known than Parma, in recent years the city of Farnese has always been able to carve out a little more space in the chronicles of taste, thanks to its Tortelli With Tail, ai beans and pasta and to the anolini in broth. A genuine, genuine cuisine that goes well beyond the first three mentioned above. His beauty is that maybe he still has to get out of the stereotypes. Maybe starting with a gastronomic tour of Piacenza.

Coppa, pancetta and salami, three great certainties

For the people of Piacenza, Montanari it is a certainty, whether you go to the municipal market near Palazzo Farnese or to the more peripheral Nuovo Montale shopping center. If you want to buy good meats, those with the drop, that's where you have to go. The delicatessen has more than 50 years of history and three generations have passed behind the counter. Quality, however, is always there. First, for an excellent ability to choose the raw material already stuffed and then for the family cellar, where the cured meats are left to rest. There cup, for example – even if the Dop specification foresees a minimum of six months of maturing – Mr. Eugenio finds it of 11 or 12 months. Almost a rarity now, because to meet the growing demand, many prefer to shorten the production time. Always from him you can buy the salami, lo strolghino, the bacon, the Capitelli's pancetta cotta, and the Parma culatello of Zibello is culaccia of Felino, this seasoned two years, that when you eat a slice you can hear the fog in your mouth. (Salumeria Montanari – Piazza Alessandro Casali 2, Piacenza)

Starting from the fundamentals: fresh pasta

In Piacenza there should be fresh pasta shops at every corner of the street, not just for taste but also for pride. And, instead, find a shop where tortelli, pisarei and anolini are still done by hand, it is not so obvious. Those that are there, do not give too many arias. Like Emiliano Tosca, a Sardinian mother, lively and lively behind the counter, and father from Piacenza. Here we work continuously from the 80s, always with the same suppliers "as long as they are a guarantee of quality". In addition to the fresh pasta department there is also that gastronomy, so who wanted to cook i pisarei but he had not ready the bean sauce, here he finds it, the same as the broth of the anolini. Even the lasagna they are not missing. THE Tortelli With Tail they have a paste so thin and elastic that when they are put in the mouth they are an explosion of flavor. In the recipe, however, there is a small variant. In the stuffing, a bit of sheep's milk is added to the ricotta vaccine (maternal heritage since in Sardinia it is very much used). The result is surprising. For large numbers it is advisable to book in advance. (Pasta Fresca (S.N.C.) – Via Vittorio Veneto 1)

Lunch break with batareu, the rediscovery of Piacenza street food

The batareu (or batarò) it's a typical bread of Valtidone. A mixture of white flour and cornmeal, beaten, pulled and then cooked in a wood oven. A rarity still today, because it is usually found only in the village festivals and in some pizzerias between Borgonovo, Pianello and Nibbiano. For some time, however, this sandwich stuffed normally only with the cup or the gorgonzola e there bacon, has also landed in the center of Piacenza thanks to the initiative of a boy from Crotone, Davide Ancora, and his wife, Maria Luisa Russa. The couple has opened, near Piazza Cavalli, a small place where they prepare it for the moment. Cooking takes place by force of things in an electric oven and the condiments have been enriched with different variations to make it more "light" and therefore more suitable for city life, but we can say that the result is close enough to the original. (Batareu for a walk – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)

Pastry Falicetto, traditional desserts makes them a Piacenza by adoption

The Piacenza cuisine is not only made with meats and pasta dishes, there are also some desserts that deserve to be explored. Among all there is one that is very little known, forged by the hands of a master chocolatier from Cuneo, Aldo Scaglia, who opened his laboratory in Piacenza in 1985. Le cherries from Villanova d'Arda, from the typical red yellow color and the firm pulp, are put in the spirit in a homemade liqueur, a kind of Spicy maraschino. Before they become excessively soaked, they are taken and soaked, one by one, in the chocolate that ends up covering them with a very thin blanket. That's how they are born Sgranfgnòn. Another sweet hardly available in the area but really typical only i buslanein, historical donuts typical of Rottofreno, sold, in "necklaces". Hard but fragrant, once they were eaten dipped in white wine. To try also the pumpkin bread, another Piacenza specialty, which is here in the shape of a snail and sprinkled with sugar on the surface. For the rest of the windows are a riot of chocolate and pastry cakes. Pastry Falicetto (Via IV Novembre 170/172)

At Osteria Santo Stefano the "new" typical Piacenza cuisine

Tradition is better when it is able to regenerate. The meaning of this statement can be grasped well at theOsteria Santo Stefano, the last stop on the gastronomic tour of Piacenza. Open uninterruptedly since 1908, it has always served the dishes of the typical Piacenza cuisine. Wooden tables, as in the past, without a tablecloth, laid with the bare minimum. Elegant. As well as the environment, white walls, exposed beams and, during the hot season, a courtyard covered by a wisteria arbor. Nothing superfluous. Very pleasant. Same principles of order and essentiality they also reign behind the stove. Few fat, a lot of good raw material. And also some surprise borrowed from the neighboring regions, but without exceeding. Appetizer of cured meats and hors d'oeuvres. First, tortelli with a tail stuffed with ricotta and spinach or pumpkin, pisarei and faso, rice bomb and anolini, to name the great classics. Second space al fifth quarter and to the poultry: roast duck, always baked pork head served with the ganassino (cheek) and black cabbage, tripe and veal brains. Since 2012, the management is in the hands of Amelia Fioruzzi who, with her young team, has already managed to conquer the satisfactions, including the reporting in the Osterie d'Italia guide Slow Food from 2013 and from 2018 also the Chiocciola. (Osteria Santo Stefano – Via Santo Stefano 22)

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Fruit Salad with Honey-Citrus Dressing

by Pam on May 30, 2013

I was making s garlic-citrus flank steak for dinner along with a black bean salad and I decided to make a fresh fruit salad with a honey-citrus dressing to go with them. It was quick and easy to make and a great way to use up some fresh fruit that I had on hand. It was a light, refreshing, and delicious salad that paired perfectly with the rest of the meal.

Combine the orange zest, orange juice, lemon juice, lime juice, and honey together in a small bowl. Whisk until well combined. Taste and add more honey if needed.

Combine the pineapple, mango, strawberries, green grapes, blueberries, and blackberries together in a large bowl. Drizzle the fruit salad with the honey citrus dressing, to taste, then toss to coat evenly. Serve and enjoy.

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Fruit Salad with Honey-Citrus Dressing

Yield: 6

Ingredients:

Juice and zest of 1/2 an orange
Juice of 1/2 a lemon
Juice of 1/2 a lime
1 tbsp of honey (more if needed)
1 cup of pineapple, chopped
1 cup of mango, chopped
1 cup of strawberries, hulled and sliced
1 cup of green grapes
1/2 cup of blueberries
1/2 cup of blackberries

Directions:

Combine the orange zest, orange juice, lemon juice, lime juice, and honey together in a small bowl. Whisk until well combined. Taste and add more honey if needed.

Combine the pineapple, mango, strawberries, green grapes, blueberries, and blackberries together in a large bowl. Drizzle the fruit salad with the honey citrus dressing, to taste, then toss to coat evenly. Serve and enjoy.

Recipe and photos by For the Love of Cooking.net

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