The autumn table has the warm shades of orange and forest green, just the colors of the khaki, certainly among the symbolic fruits of the season and that we find easily in this period at the market. Be careful to call them correctly: in the common parlance they often say "caco" but the correct name, both in the singular and in the plural, is khaki because it is the Italianization of the Japanese name "Kaki no ki", with which the Diospyros kaki, or the persimmon tree. It is a fruit tree native to the Far East, arrived in Europe in the eighteenth century, initially as an ornamental plant and only later cultivated for its fruits, which are rich in sugars, minerals, vitamins (A, B and C) and important amino acids.
Where it is grown
In Italy, persimmon is cultivated mainly in Agro Nocerino (in Campania), in Emilia Romagna, in Veneto and in Sicily. It is harvested in the fall, from the end of October to December and is strictly seasonal because, once ripe, it must be consumed immediately as it deteriorates quickly. Technically it is one berry, has the size of an apple, with peel and flesh of color between yellow and orange very bright, which can be more creamy or compact depending on the different types.
Soft pulp and compact pulp
The most widespread varieties in our country are the Lotus of Romagna, which has a soft and almost gelatinous pulp, and the Vanilla of Campania, from the pulp more firm than that of Lotus and of a more brownish color. Then there is the type of apple persimmon, among which they are particularly appreciated Fuyu, Suruga, O'Gosho and Jiro. Apple persimmons have a thinner skin, lighter color and a very compact and almost crisp pulp, characteristics that make them, as the name suggests, similar to apples. THE apple persimmon they are having a growing success because, thanks to their particular consistency and to a lower sugar content than the soft version; they can also be used in savory preparations. At the supermarket, the different varieties are found at an average price between 2.50 and 3 euros per kilogram.
The right maturation
After harvesting (and even after purchase, if they are not completely ripe), the persimmons must undergo the phase of "Astringency", that is, aging in the box. It is a necessary step because the not perfectly ripe persimmon is rich in tannins that give it a taste between bitter and sour and make it attractive, that is unpleasantly astringent on the palate.
To accelerate the ripening phase, the fruits are placed in wooden boxes or in wicker baskets alternating with apples; the ethylene released by the latter is absorbed by the persimmons, making sure that the tannins are transformed into sugars and, therefore, the pulp becomes softer and pleasantly sweet. Unlike the case of apple persimmons, very poor in tannins, which are consumable even when freshly picked.
How to choose them
At the time of purchase, if you choose khaki already fully ripe, you must check that the fruits are soft to the touch, but completely devoid of dents, and do not have dark spots. This is a very important test because the persimmon tends to deteriorate easily. If, on the other hand, they are lightly unripe, they should be left to mature in a dark and dry place resting on the side with the petiole. In any case, once ready, they must be consumed immediately, or placed in the lower part of the refrigerator, where they are stored for a maximum of three days.
Use in the kitchen
When they are at the right level of ripeness, persimmons are already one dessert perfect to taste simply taking the pulp with a teaspoon directly from the fruit. The particular softness of the persimmons makes them perfect for preparing puddings or sauces to accompany ice cream or desserts like the chestnut mousse with persimmon sauce or the bavarese with persimmon coulis. Less usual but equally delicious cakes is tarts to persimmons. Another classic use of the softer and more gelatinous varieties is the preparation of jams, which require shorter cooking times than those of other fruit. Persimmon persimmon? Why not, try them in the carpaccio of persimmon with spicy gorgonzola, rocket and hazelnuts or in the fontina croquettes with brioche bread and persimmon jam, an explosion of flavor! Apple persimmons are ideal to use to enrich salads; in pastry, however, their consistency makes them ideal for decorations.
Alessandro Gnocchi
October 2016
updated in October 2018 by Claudia Minnella
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