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Gambero Rosso restaurants: no marks but excellence does not change – Italian Cuisine

Gambero Rosso restaurants: no marks but excellence does not change


The guide (rightly) suspends scores in cents for the 2021 edition, but continues to report excellence in each category. Four new Three Forks and particular attention to the premises engaged in delivery and take away

It is a particular year, unfortunately. Very hard for the entire restaurant. Exactly as Slow Food decided for its guide to taverns (with the abolition of snails), also the Red shrimp has seen fit to review the rating system of The Restaurants of Italy, presented in Rome in live streaming. No scores but bands. It is a vision that is as constructive and non-punitive as possible. «We tried as much as possible to limit the failures, but with equal attention a beacon was lit on who managed to reinvent himself, who put new formulas into play. And for this reason the votes were put aside for a year, keeping the forks, globes, bottles, casseroles – one, two or three depending on the degree of excellence -, but we did not want to play on the extra penny or in less than in the past ", explains the director Laura Mantovano. A sensible choice: the spring lockdown and in some cases the summer break prevented an assessment similar to what normally happened. On the other hand, in the more than 2,500 cards appear – where there were and still are – the new take-away and delivery services, indicated with special symbols. Mirror of very, very complicated times.

The four climbed to the top

That said, the 2021 edition is not free from changes within the individual categories, starting with Three Forks. Faced with the impossibility of judging it, Idylio by Francesco Apreda – The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel comes out (but we are sure that for the Neapolitan chef it is only a break) and four places enter. Two in the capital: Glass Hostaria by Cristina Bowermann and theImago of the Hotel Hassler where until spring 2019 there was Apreda, replaced by Andrea Antonini. Andrea Aprea, "director" since 2011, finally conquers the Three Forks Vun which is the restaurant inside the Hotel Park Hyatt Milan, with two Michelin stars. The fourth new entry is represented by The little Prince of the Gran Hotel Principe di Piemonte in Viareggio with executive chef Giuseppe Mancino, also two-star. In the other categories, the changes from the previous guide are minimal.

The East is the protagonist

The special prizes are interesting. The one for the emerging chef in memory of Alessandro Narducci went to Emanuele Lecce della Tavernetta in Spezzano della Sila (CS) while the novelty of the year is (rightly, for us) Peter Brunel in Arco (TN) which has created an evocative restaurant with great cuisine. Not surprisingly, it is an important signal on the path to contamination the award for the restaurateur of the year, assigned to Liu family: Claudio, Marco and Giulia (Italian by birth, but Chinese by origin) are increasingly expanding the perimeter of their network in Milan where they are well known. From the first Iyo – the only ethnic one with the Michelin Star – they reached six places. In this sense, the award for the best proposal by the glass that went to is even more sensational Mu Dim Sum, one of the best Chinese cuisine restaurants, also in Milan, and whose sommelier is Egidio Giovannini. Unthinkable until a few years ago.

Romito and Bottura ex aequo

Two other highly coveted awards are those as pastry chef of the year (Fabrizio Fiorani of Il Duomo in Ragusa) and for the best room service that ended in Calabria – another not secondary signal – al Qafiz of Santa Cristina di Aspromonte(RC). The tasting of the year? The 2020 del Reale in Castel di Sangro (AQ) e With a little help from my friends of the Osteria Francescana in Modena. The menus respectively of Niko Romito and Massimo Bottura in fact are both formidable.

The best pizzerias of Gambero Rosso: Campania always queen – Italian Cuisine

The best pizzerias of Gambero Rosso: Campania always queen


Honor to the pizza chefs, in this difficult season: this is what the specialized guide who indicated the best of 650 addresses in Italy wanted to do. 93 winners, all on the same level, with the leading region of pizza threatened by Tuscany

The pizzerias live (and fight with us) in the most difficult season of the new century. If we want to go beyond the technical aspect, this is the message that comes from Gambero Rosso 2021 Guide to Italian Pizzerias which was presented in streaming. A different guide, of course, from the seven that preceded it: Gambero has chosen to indicate the best among the 650 addresses he mapped throughout Italy. It has them distinguished as always according to the degree of excellence – by marking them with one, two or three segments and wheels – thus putting aside, for once, the nuances of merit and therefore the numerical score. The reason? Recognize the difficulties that all pizza makers, together with the rest of the catering sector, have experienced in recent months, but also their skill, because they have been able to reinvent themselves in the face of an emergency, showing resourcefulness and team spirit.

From here, a guide that also this year tells how the world of pizza is evolving, and all the nuances of the Italian dish par excellence, dividing them by categories: Neapolitan, Italian (in regional variants), gourmet, by the slice. The winners are 93, with 13 new entries, but also many confirmations at the top starting from Francesco Martucci of I Masanielli di Caserta (who is also number one in the ranking for the best pizzas of 50 Top Pizza), also awarded as "master of the dough" like Simone Lombardi, patron of the small but beloved Crosta in Milan. But at the top there are also Franco Pepe, Gabriele Bonci, Enzo Coccia, Renato Bosco, Simone Padoan, Antonio Sorbillo, Ciro Salvo: all cult names for fans.
Campania remains at the top with 19 award-winning clubs, followed by Tuscany with 18, Lazio with 17, Veneto with 8; Piedmont with 7; Lombardy with 6; Sicily with 4; Abruzzo, Sardinia, and Emilia – Romagna with 3; Liguria, Basilicata, Marche, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Calabria with 1. Naples and Rome are certainly the capitals of good pizza, respectively with 9 and 12 reports at the top. In the gallery the places that have received special recognition from the guide.

The best Italian restaurants in the world for Gambero Rosso – Italian Cuisine

The best Italian restaurants in the world for Gambero Rosso


The best of Italian cuisine in a guide that examines 80 cities on five continents: large premises, but also bistros and pizzerias where we do not parody our recipes, on the contrary. Here are the certainties when traveling abroad and you don't want to make mistakes

The locals are loved by foreign gourmets who find Italian flavors and recipes, well interpreted. But they are also the landing places when we are abroad and the (legitimate) desire to eat a dish or a pizza to find home air comes. One of the most interesting of the Gambero Rosso guides is undoubtedly Top Italian Restaurants which reviews the best tricolor addresses abroad, now in its third year. In the 2020 edition they are reported 600 local selected restaurants, trattorias, pizzerias and wine bars located in more than 80 cities in the 5 continents. The selection is carried out with criteria that reward both the quality of the dishes offered and the attention to wines and products made in Italy. The guide, edited by journalist Lorenzo Ruggeri, is in its third year of life.

Famous names also from us

The Three Forks There are 25 tricolor of this edition. Many carry well-known signatures even in their homeland: Luca Fantin and Niko Romito in the restaurants of the Bulgari Hotel in Tokyo and Dubai; the judge of MasterChef Giorgio Locatelli with his Locanda in London; Ciccio Sultano with Pastamara in Vienna; Heinz Beck in Tokyo Carlo Cracco with the Ovo in Moscow, where the executive chef is Emanuele Pollini. And you can't miss The king of white truffle – Emanuele Bombana from Bergamo, seven Michelin stars in total – which is present with two of its premises: 8th and a half of Macao and 8 and 1/2 of Hong Kong . THE Tre Gamberi, or the best bistros and trattorias, are 15, just like the pizzerias that hit the mark with i Three wedges; finally 20 le Three Bottles, amazing collections of Italian wine in the world. The most awarded cities? A front row poker: Tokyo, Paris, New York and Copenhagen. Now we see the locals and chefs of the year.

Luca Fantin Restaurant – Tokyo

From 10 years on the tenth floor of the Bulgari Ginza Tower, the chef from Treviso has gradually built the best creative Italian cuisine in Asia, dosing the exceptional local raw materials, the rhythm of the seasons and a background matured at the service of great masters. The icon dish: Spaghetti Monograno Felicetti with sea urchins. Discounted write it, but the Restaurant of the Year is of a total class.

Giando – Honk Kong

There Wine list of the year awarded the work of Gianni Caprioli, very active in promoting the best Italian products also through his trattoria. Already, in addition to a network of niche stores. Emanuele Berselli is responsible for drawing up the wine list, with vintages also in the 50s, great expert who trained in the legendary La Ciau del Tornavento winery. From Giando, of course, you eat well.

Mancini – Stockholm

Active since 1978, for its constancy it has won the prize of Guardian of Tradition. In fact, thanks to the patron Claudio Mancini, one feels in Italy between homemade sausages served in a saucepan, two "right" slices of ham, the well-followed pastas and the true truffle in season. Excellent selection of oils and cheeses. About 2000 labels in the deep and rich cellar followed by Giancarlo Clark.

Tèrra – Copenhagen

A really interesting little place: Organic Urban Trattoria between innovation and contamination, halfway between Rome and Copenhagen. At the base there are a maniacal research of the ingredient – of the best organic producers – and the imaginative vein of Valerio Serino which is highlighted in dishes such as Spaghettone butter, anchovies and boreal bottarga. And the wine list is also original, curated by the companion Lucia De Luca. For the Gambero Rosso it is the Emerging Restaurant of the Year.

Emanuele Pollini – Ovo in Moscow

The protagonist of the TV series docu Italian taste on the Food Network he does very well even when he cooks and does not judge his colleagues. It's him Chef of the Year for the guide: talent made in Cesena, he had carte blanche from maestro Carlo Cracco in managing the restaurant of the Lotte Hotel in the Russian capital. The menu is made of very technical dishes, the right essential and very Italian in substance. And it can still improve.

Fierce Restaurant – New York

For theOpening of the Year you have to move to Chelsea, the signature is by the Roman Francesco Panella, also popular in Italy for his television programs: Little Big Italy on Nine or the previous one Brooklyn Man. Ferocious, evocative concept, with three rooms inside the new Moxy boutique hotel, in a few months it is already a cult among VIPs and simple gourmets for its authentically Italian cuisine and hospitality.

Futura – Berlin

The sign honors Lucia Dalla's song. The local awarded as Pizzeria of the Year it is located in East Berlin, in the heart of Friedrichshain, created by a good Neapolitan pizza maker such as Alessandro Leonardi who found a famous partner like the Planet Funk musician, Alex Uhlmann. All the ingredients are imported from Italy, the dough is fabulous, the masterpiece is Montanarine's initial series.

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