Tag: Martino

Martino Ruggieri from Puglia wins two stars in Paris – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

La Cucina Italiana


MR: «The goal was to reach the top since we opened and we are happy: we are already thinking not only about how to maintain the second star, but also about how to improve. This is a stage in my career, and it is important that it has arrived for me, for the team (ten people in the kitchen and five in the dining room for around twenty seats), for the future, but having always cooked in large restaurants, including the three stars, allow me to say that if the recognition doesn’t arrive, either you worked badly or you didn’t learn anything. Having said that, immediately after celebrating we started asking ourselves questions about the location and our type of cuisine because we always have to question ourselves in order to improve.”

You worked alongside Yannick Alléno for eight years: do you owe him much?

MR: «Yes. I owe Alléno everything and on stage, during the awards ceremony, I thanked him by telling him “Merci chef”. He replied: “C’est bien, well done, celebrate with dignity”. And then he added: “Yes, I helped you, but you took the two stars.” Alléno taught me a lot, on a technical, professional and human level and also helped me to have the right people at my side in this entrepreneurial adventure. I am one chef patron (owner chef), I don’t have the money of big restaurants, no investors behind it, if the restaurant is full profit, otherwise not. And this recognition was also important for the speed with which we achieved it: it doesn’t happen so often and my colleagues in Tours also pointed this out to me.”

Do you miss not working alongside Alléno anymore?

MR: «I miss the daily comparison, yes, but I’m happy to have a place of my own. I think I took this step at the right time with the correct maturity, experience and age. In this journey it was important to find an identity different from that of Alléno because when you create a cuisine for many years alongside a chef like him you need to differentiate yourself.”

What is the identity of your cuisine?

MR: «It is certainly very creative: I use bitters a lot, I like contrasts, I create a cuisine based on technique and sauces. When you come to eat with us you eat from a chef and by this I mean that there is substance, nothing is superfluous, you don’t find trends. My Italian side is pushed into memories, not in the dishes, I could say in the Mediterranean to summarize the concept of a cuisine that is nevertheless French, courageous, powerful, strong. I’m proud to be Italian, but I don’t seek Italianness at all costs.”

Horse of San Martino – Italian Cuisine

»Horse of San Martino


First, download the PDF image that I inserted in the introduction of the recipe, print it and cut it out, so you can use it to make your cookies.
Prepare the shortcrust pastry: combine all the ingredients (flour, sugar, eggs, cold butter into chunks, lemon peel) in a bowl and work quickly, until you get a homogeneous dough, then wrap it with cling film and let it rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface into a thin sheet (5-6 mm).

Place the paper shapes on the pastry and cut out the contours with a knife with a smooth and sharp blade.
Transfer the biscuits to the oven tray lined with parchment paper and bake for 15-20 minutes (it took me about 17) at 180 ° C, in a preheated convection oven, then let it cool.

When the biscuits are cold, prepare the icing: start whipping the egg white, then add the sugar and lemon and mix.

Decorate the biscuit with the icing, outlining its contours and details, and then covering the icing with the sprinkles of sugar, then let it solidify.

The San Martino horse is ready, you just have to eat it!

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San Martino biscuits – Italian Cuisine

»San Martino biscuits


Put all the dry ingredients (flour, sugar, cinnamon, aniseed, yeast) in a bowl and mix, then add the butter into chunks and start to mix, finally gradually incorporate the lukewarm water.

Once you have a compact dough, divide it into 20 equal pieces (about 45-50 g of weight) and, taking one at a time, create a cord and wrap it on itself in a slightly oblique way to create a swivel that is a little domed. .

As they are ready, place the biscuits on the baking sheet lined with parchment paper, slightly spaced apart, and let them grow for 1 hour or until doubled in a warm place, then bake in a preheated static oven at 200 ° C and bake. for 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 160 ° C and cook for another 20 minutes.

San Martino biscuits are ready: let them cool before serving.

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