Tag: Marche

Cycling between Umbria, Lazio and Marche: an itinerary for everyone – Italian Cuisine

Traveling by bicycle does not just mean sweating and sweating. The important thing is to choose the right itinerary, or in any case the most suitable one for us. This, for example, will take you to pedal between the medieval villages and the timeless landscapes of Central Italy, without suffering too much and with great satisfaction. Culinary too

When you think of the bicycle trips, inexorably climbs, sweat and cramps come to mind, and the desire to leave is less. But there is nothing more wrong, because the secret lies in choosing the right route, or in any case more suitable for us. In addition – of course – to a comfortable bicycle e robust, which allows you to ride even on dirt roads. If you are looking for ideas, the new guide pedal Italy (edited by Albano Marcarini, ediciclo editor, € 14), collects twenty itineraries on two wheels among the most beautiful in Italy and, above all, suitable for everyone, including children.

Among the most interesting tours proposed in the book is the one that runs through the Marmore cycle path, the first long cycle path in Central Italy, and the Via Salaria from San Benedetto del Tronto to Rome, which we will "break" here to complete a unique itinerary, from Assisi and San Benedetto del Tronto in 9-10 days. Let's start!

1st stage Assisi – Bevagna
It is a very short section, just 28.6 km long, and takes place mainly on asphalted country roads and some stretch of cycle path, very useful for running in the estate on the saddle. If you arrive in Assisi the day before or early in the morning, visit the Basilica of San Francesco and its extraordinary frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue and Simone Martini is indispensable. Access to the cycle path is from the Santa Maria degli Angeli station towards Cannara and, along the way, more or less halfway, we recommend a detour with a stop at Spello, a medieval jewel with the splendid Villa Fidelia and the alleys of flowered vases. First night in Bevagna (to sleep: The Monastery of Bevagna, in the heart of the medieval village, a former convent of the sixteenth century used as a hotel in the early twentieth century; in addition to a large park, it also houses the ancient church of Santa Maria de ponte lapidum. Tel: 0742 361636/320 6779 656).

To eat: At La Locanda del Postiglione (Spello) you can taste some picchirilli with broad beans, bacon and fabulous pecorino, as well as tagliolini with cheese, pepper and truffle (tel: 0742301164). From Oscar's trattoria … and so on (Bevagna), chef Filippo Artioli awaits you with his strictly seasonal menu, which he prepares with products from local farms (tel: 0742 361107/373 7694483).

2nd stage Bevagna – Spoleto
Here too, just 25 km and all flat. Before Spoleto a stop must be made at Sources of Clitunno, a spring area with ponds, islets and poplars, also evoked by Carducci and Lord Byron, and considered sacred by the Romans. In Spoleto, visit the Duomo, one of the treasures of the Umbrian Middle Ages. Even if here, between uphill and steep descents, there will be some effort. To sleep: Hotel Charleston, located just minutes from all the main attractions of the city (tel: 0743-220052). To eat: The temple of taste with the best of the Umbrian tradition appropriately revisited (tel 074347121).

3rd stage Spoleto – Sant’Anatolia di Narco
The former Spoleto-Norcia railway is today a fun cycle path like "a roller coaster, He swears in Ride Italy Alberto Marcarini. Which also guarantees its accessibility and "little effort". Along the way prepare to cross (with the front light on, I recommend) the gallery of Caprareccia pass, 3 km reserved only for cyclists and pedestrians and whose descent at the exit, "from 617 to 290 meters in height", writes Marcarini, "is nothing short of amazing". To sleep: B&B dell’Osteria, located behind a historic abbey of 1200 and built entirely of stone (tel: 347 136-9077). To eat: The Abbey, in the inner courtyard of the abbey, serves excellent Norcia ham, first courses with truffles and other delicacies.

4th stage Sant'Anatolia – Terni
Instead of heading to Norcia continuing on the Nera Cycle Route, head towards the descent of the river and walk along its banks, crossing naturalistic oases and historic centers, some very special and worthy of a stop. In Ferrentillo, for example, the Museum of mummies in the crypt of the church of Santo Stefano it collects bodies of the dead of ancient times. But there are even less "strong" attractions (in Scheggino, Ceselli, Arrone and in San Pietro in Valle). Terni can be reached in 35 km and 255 meters in altitude, and from here – after an excursion to Marmore waterfalls – the next day you can take the train to Cittaducale (42 minutes, 4.5 €), from which to start the second part of the cycle tour. To sleep: Residence Bizzoni, a stone's throw from the historic center but surrounded by greenery (tel: 0744 44241); to eat: Umami restaurant, with chef Diego's seasonal menus, from tagliatelle with cream of black garlic, licorice, mozzarella and mint to crispy pork in oriental sauce and sesame with steamed bread (tel: 0744 427629).

5th stage Terni – Cittaducale (with visit to the Marmore)
Admired by San Francesco, designed by Leonardo Da Vinci, even mentioned by Dante The divine Comedy and then celebrated by the greatest English poets of the nineteenth century, Lord Byron primarily, the Marmore Falls are one of the natural wonders of our country. If you are in Terni, that is, just 7 km away, you cannot miss them. For info on guided excursions, timetables and reservations, visit the website here. Wonder is assured. On the way back, take the train and arrive at Cittaducale in the province of Rieti: founded in 1308 by King Charles II of Anjou, it belonged to the province of Aquila for more than six centuries, until its passage into Lazio in 1927. To sleep: Casa Vacanze Bianca, a charming recently renovated apartment in the heart of the medieval city, which can accommodate up to 5 people (tel: 347 6064559). To eat: La tagliata, a butchery that makes excellent burgers with homemade rustic sandwich and first courses of fresh pasta.

6th stage Cittaducale – Cittareale
Travel on the bike continues along the spectacular Gorges of the Velino, very deep ravines dug by the Velino river and interspersed with waterfalls, precipitous walls and very scenic caves (of San Quirico, Oscura, Romualdo, Strambo del Paladino and Fosso di Portella). Continue along the state road and some abandoned sections, carefully avoiding the tunnels and arriving in Cittareale, also in the province of Rieti, after stopping at Antrodoco, home of the first battle of the Italian Risorgimento. Curiosity: Antrodoco is one of the municipalities that is proclaimed Central Italy, in competition with its capital Rieti (Umbilicus Italiae), Urbino (Center of the world) and Foligno (At the center of the world). To sleep: Agriturismo Lu Ceppe, family atmosphere in close contact with nature, with simple but accurate cuisine (tel: 0746 947085).

7th Cittareale stage – Arquata del Tronto
The Torrita pass, at an altitude of 1017 meters, marks the border between the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic sides. The climb is a bit steep, but after skirting the Scandarello lake you can stop at Accumoli, a mountain village of 1100 painfully hit by the 2016 earthquake. Following the route of the old Via Salaria you arrive in the Marche and continue towards Tufo and, subsequently, Arquata. To sleep: B&B Trisungo (tel: 0736 803901). To eat: Typical mountain cuisine with grilled meat, porcini mushrooms and truffles, at the Il Ponticello Restaurant Pizzeria (tel: 0736809728).

8th stage Arquata del Tronto – Ascoli Piceno
After Acquasanta Terme you will pass on the other side of the Tronto, arriving at Ponte d’Arlì, in the heart of Sibillini Mountains National Park. Follow the old Salaria route passing through the narrowest gorges of the Tronto valley, up to Mozzano (to eat: Pizza in the square, via don Rossi). Then, following the Franciscan Way of the Marca, you will arrive in Ascoli, where there will be a coffee and priest's hat with rum at the historic Caffè Meletti in Piazza del Popolo. To sleep: Hotel Sant’Emidio, historic 18th century building in the heart of the historic center (tel: 0736 258626). To eat: At La Locanda del Medioevo the atmosphere of the 1300s is found in the menu with Ascoli specialties and typical dishes of the time (tel: 0736250695).

Last stop: San Benedetto del Tronto
Head towards Pagliare, a locality of the Oasis immersed in the countryside with renaturalised lakes obtained from former quarries. Then follow the cycle path that runs along the bank of the Tronto (you will be right on the border between Marche and Abruzzo) until you reach Porto d'Ascoli and the mouths of the Bilge nature reserve. From here take the Adriatic Cycle Route for 4km, which will take you to the San Benedetto del Tronto coast, the arrival point of your trip. To sleep: B&B La Casa Sulla Spiaggia, where the name doesn't lie (tel: 338 713 5040); to eat: I Perdigiorno, whose menu is prepared every day depending on the availability of the gardener and the butcher (tel: 0735 586113). «Few dishes to remember, says the claim of the room. A bit like the spirit of this itinerary on the road.

Go through villages in the Marche – Italian Cuisine

The Caves of Frasassi, Urbino, Camerino, Ascoli Piceno … There are many wonders that make the Marche the only Italian destination included among the places not to be missed in the "Top Regions – Best in Travel" ranking for 2020 by the Lonely Planet . But here we reveal the other brands, those of small hidden villages, enchanting, out of time

Being able to range from the sea to the hills and reach the mountains within a few kilometers. In Marche central the holiday seems made on purpose to satisfy the whole family. From outdoor activities to art, up to cooking and wine, under the lowest common denominator of small villages. Agritourisms, bed and breakfasts for tourism spread in one of the regions with the lowest population density where you can find relaxation and attractions. Here are some itineraries not to be missed including day excursions, cycle paths and comfortable walks with a surprise ending.

From the Conero Riviera to the villages of the Infinite

Recanati is the Borgo Antico of Giacomo Leopardi. A hill town that together with Urbino is the cultural capital of the Marche region. Just in these days Giacomo Leopardi's private rooms were opened to the public for the first time, the places of the most intimate memories, of his first loves and of his daily life. The garden that inspired the immortal verses of The memories and the sitting room where the Leopardi brothers entertained, Giacomo's private rooms can be used upon reservation. In Recanati many cultural events have been confirmed, including the Leopardian celebrations on the Colle dell'Infinito, a magical place where the natural light of the moon is reproduced in the evening thanks to the work of the famous scenographer Dante Ferretti. Beniamino Gigli has a dedicated museum, and in summer music festivals and poetry readings are held. Do not miss the walk through the center in the footsteps of the places that inspired Giacomo's poems and a visit to the museum rooms of Villa Colloredo Mells which also contains numerous masterpieces by Lorenzo Lotto.

Spirituality, history and art in the Holy House of Loreto

Spirituality and culture for sight a Loreto, in which this year is celebrated on Lauretan Jubilee and where you can visit the museum annexed to the Holy House with Lotto canvases and the Sala del Pomarancio a rare example of painting, stucco sculpture and cabinet making from the Mannerist era. According to tradition, the Holy House of Loreto it is part of the house of the Virgin, which consisted of a cave carved into the rock and a room in front. The latter was transported in 1291, according to tradition for "angelic mystery" from Nazareth, first in ancient Illyria and then reached the Lauretan hill during the night of December 10, 1294 and placed on a public road where it is still kept.

Above and behind the sea there are the villages of the Conero

There is a few kilometers away Offagna, orange flag and one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, dominated by the Medieval fortress. Built in the mid-fifteenth century. on the ruins of a previous castle, it is one of the most beautiful defensive constructions in the Marche; The quadrangular keep of the five-storey keep still intact, in which the Museum of Ancient Weapons is set up. Along the walls edged with dovetail battlements, the patrol path runs.

An "open air" excursion to the neighbor is worthwhile Selva di Gallignano, a forest that is also a biodiversity laboratory so much that it contains experimental crops from the Doric University. Hazel groves, cerrete and Mediterranean forest scents with educational posters along the walkways that illustrate the characteristics of the forest ecosystem. But the villages are also close to the sea and the promontory of Mount Conero: to visit the villages of Sirolo, with its panoramic terrace, then Numana with the Costarella, the staircase that leads from the town to the port and the beautiful caves under the town of Camerano, which is then home to Rosso Conero.

The Castles of Jesi: wine, culture and day trips

Jesi it is definitely one of the cities from which to start looking for medieval villages. Here he was born Frederick II of Swabia, Stupor Mundi, and eighteen are the castles that crown it. There is always room for an aperitif in the center based on typical products. The search for good wines and gastronomic culture pass through Morro d'Alba, where you can walk in the ancient round of the walls (called the Scarpa) sipping a fragrant red (Lacrima), or for Montecarotto, on the Rive Gauche dell'Esino where there is the largest cellar in the region, which can be visited and with the possibility of tasting. Anyone looking for extra virgin olive oil should know that Venetian merchants attributed a higher price to "Marca oil" by virtue of its quality. To find the best extra virgin olive oil and maybe walk among the centuries-old olive groves, you will have to visit Monsano, San Marcello, Monte San Vito, and Scapezzano di Senigallia, between countryside that looks like mosaics and medieval centers overlooking the sea.

TO Cupramontanainstead, it rises slightly higher, and in addition to Verdicchio and good typical Marche cuisine, there is one of the most evocative excursions between spirituality and nature. About fifteen minutes of a road suitable for everyone. A path that winds through an ancient wet forest, today a protected floristic area where, thanks to its particular microclimate, rare tree species are preserved. At the end of the path the hermitage of the White Friars appears, with the caves dug into the tuff by the hermits. A place of penance and prayer since the 11th century, inhabited by the Camaldolese, called the White Friars, the hermitage is famous for having been the home of blessed and saints. In town, however, woe to miss a visit to the Abbey of Blessed Angelo da Massaccio, a Camaldolese monastic complex built in 1180 with a splendid balcony and a small cloister collected. Not to be missed for wine lovers is the International Museum of Wine Label, the Caves of Santa Caterina and the Horto de I Semplici, which contains a collection of herbs and medicinal plants for educational purposes. Verdicchio can be tasted at the municipal wine shop. Excellent cycling through the hills, or on the bottom of the valley, on the long cycle path that runs alongside the river Esino. A visit to Cupramontana is a must tracks, called The Balcony of the Marche. Here culture, art, the splendid noble palaces and outdoor life offer relaxation and large spaces in an old-fashioned atmosphere reminiscent of the holidays of the last century.

Small villages on the Apennines: the nine castles of Arcevia

Set among the Apennines there is Arcevia, one of the most beautiful villages in the province of Ancona, from which you can enjoy a wonderful panorama down to the sea. Nine castles surround it, ancient fortified villages: Caudino, Palazzo, San Pietro in Musio, the nearby Sanctuary of the Madonna di Montevago, with the Marian fresco signed by Venanzio da Camerino and Piergentile da Matelica. Then there are Nidastore, so called because it is almost as unreachable as the birds of prey nest; Loretello, with the walls still practicable; Montale, which boasts a nice walkway, and Piticchio, which stands out for its peculiar covered street with a panoramic view. Castiglioni it guards, among other beauties, the church of Santa Maria della Piana. The tour ends in the thirteenth century village of Avacelli with its mighty ramparts that stand out over verdant woods. Here ask for the specialties with wild asparagus, which abound in the area. Finally a walk to Arcevia: the botanical garden is worth visiting, and the must-have is cicerchia and calcioni stuffed with cheese at the table. Going down to the sea, in the valley of the Misa river, the village of Corinaldo with its enchanting paths.

From Arcevia the tour continues to the neighbor Serra San Quirico, whose historic center looks like a ship lying on the hill. To the north of the historic center, take a dirt road and path that leads to the summit of Monte Murano, in the Parco della Red throat, which offers an enchanting panoramic view of the Vallesina and where there is the possibility of grilling in the equipped barbeques. Once back in the village, you will be fascinated by the glitter of the baroque decorations of the church of Santa Lucia and the characteristic Copertelle, covered areas along the walkway around the walls.

I tacconi, the fresh pasta from the Marche made with bean curd – Italian Cuisine

Tacconi are a fresh pasta of peasant origin and typical of the Marche region which has bean flour as its special ingredient

In an era in which, in Italy, we are witnessing the rediscovery of simple flavors, ancient recipes and the "poor kitchen”, Also on the front of dry and fresh pasta, alternatives to the usual soft wheat flour, once considered less valuable, are sought. The so-called above all arouse interest and curiosity special flours, and in particular those of cicerchie and legumes, appreciated because they are tasty, rustic, gluten-free and rich in nutrients. A traditional fresh pasta Italian that fits perfectly in this type of recipes are i tacconi, typical of Marche and famous for being made from bean curd.

Origins, history and characteristics of big heels

Directly from the enchanting hills of the Marche region and from the countryside comes the special raw material at the base of this regional recipe, or the bean curd. In particular, the most famous and prized beans of the Marche are the "beans", A type of native bean from Fratte Rosa, a small hill village in the province of Pesaro and Urbino. The type of flour that is obtained from it is not very easy to find on the market, but it can be made at home by buying fresh beans harvested in May-June, drying them, dehulling them and grinding them with a mixer, so as to obtain a powder. Low in carbohydrates and fats and rich in proteins, fibers, vitamins and mineral salts (above all iron and phosphorus), bean curd gives this fresh pasta from the Marche region a brownish color, a flavor and a pleasant rough texture. The big heels are a dish of poor origin; at one time, in fact, farmers who had to find a way to ensure the livelihood of the family despite the shortage of wheat, devised the system of mixing wheat flour with cheaper "alternative flours", including that of broad beans.

Traditional local preparation and recipes

To cook the tacconi, 200 grams of dried fava bean flour, 200 of soft wheat flour and four eggs are mixed together. The procedure and format are very similar to those of tagliatelle and tagliolini; once ready, the mixture is pulled with a rolling pin until it becomes about 20 centimeters long and less than half a centimeter thick, to be then rolled up and cut into strips about one centimeter wide. The pasta obtained is compact, collects the sauce well and has a particular flavor, sweet and slightly savory, which goes mostly with light seasonings. In the original peasant version, the tacconi were eaten in white, with a drizzle of oil and a little grated Parmesan, while more recently it ranges from a classic fresh tomato sauce to other more sophisticated and complex ones with fish, meat sauce, mushrooms and various vegetables.

Given the simplicity of the recipe, once the bean curd has been found or prepared, anyone can juggle a homemade and personalized version of the tacconi, perhaps trying to replace the white flour with the whole one and experimenting with new fresh and seasonal seasonings.

For info: Fratterosa
Photo: Fava_di_Fratte_Rosa_Farina_Tacconi_Wikipedia.jpg