Traveling by bicycle does not just mean sweating and sweating. The important thing is to choose the right itinerary, or in any case the most suitable one for us. This, for example, will take you to pedal between the medieval villages and the timeless landscapes of Central Italy, without suffering too much and with great satisfaction. Culinary too
When you think of the bicycle trips, inexorably climbs, sweat and cramps come to mind, and the desire to leave is less. But there is nothing more wrong, because the secret lies in choosing the right route, or in any case more suitable for us. In addition – of course – to a comfortable bicycle e robust, which allows you to ride even on dirt roads. If you are looking for ideas, the new guide pedal Italy (edited by Albano Marcarini, ediciclo editor, € 14), collects twenty itineraries on two wheels among the most beautiful in Italy and, above all, suitable for everyone, including children.
Among the most interesting tours proposed in the book is the one that runs through the Marmore cycle path, the first long cycle path in Central Italy, and the Via Salaria from San Benedetto del Tronto to Rome, which we will "break" here to complete a unique itinerary, from Assisi and San Benedetto del Tronto in 9-10 days. Let's start!
1st stage Assisi – Bevagna
It is a very short section, just 28.6 km long, and takes place mainly on asphalted country roads and some stretch of cycle path, very useful for running in the estate on the saddle. If you arrive in Assisi the day before or early in the morning, visit the Basilica of San Francesco and its extraordinary frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue and Simone Martini is indispensable. Access to the cycle path is from the Santa Maria degli Angeli station towards Cannara and, along the way, more or less halfway, we recommend a detour with a stop at Spello, a medieval jewel with the splendid Villa Fidelia and the alleys of flowered vases. First night in Bevagna (to sleep: The Monastery of Bevagna, in the heart of the medieval village, a former convent of the sixteenth century used as a hotel in the early twentieth century; in addition to a large park, it also houses the ancient church of Santa Maria de ponte lapidum. Tel: 0742 361636/320 6779 656).
To eat: At La Locanda del Postiglione (Spello) you can taste some picchirilli with broad beans, bacon and fabulous pecorino, as well as tagliolini with cheese, pepper and truffle (tel: 0742301164). From Oscar's trattoria … and so on (Bevagna), chef Filippo Artioli awaits you with his strictly seasonal menu, which he prepares with products from local farms (tel: 0742 361107/373 7694483).
2nd stage Bevagna – Spoleto
Here too, just 25 km and all flat. Before Spoleto a stop must be made at Sources of Clitunno, a spring area with ponds, islets and poplars, also evoked by Carducci and Lord Byron, and considered sacred by the Romans. In Spoleto, visit the Duomo, one of the treasures of the Umbrian Middle Ages. Even if here, between uphill and steep descents, there will be some effort. To sleep: Hotel Charleston, located just minutes from all the main attractions of the city (tel: 0743-220052). To eat: The temple of taste with the best of the Umbrian tradition appropriately revisited (tel 074347121).
3rd stage Spoleto – Sant’Anatolia di Narco
The former Spoleto-Norcia railway is today a fun cycle path like "a roller coaster, He swears in Ride Italy Alberto Marcarini. Which also guarantees its accessibility and "little effort". Along the way prepare to cross (with the front light on, I recommend) the gallery of Caprareccia pass, 3 km reserved only for cyclists and pedestrians and whose descent at the exit, "from 617 to 290 meters in height", writes Marcarini, "is nothing short of amazing". To sleep: B&B dell’Osteria, located behind a historic abbey of 1200 and built entirely of stone (tel: 347 136-9077). To eat: The Abbey, in the inner courtyard of the abbey, serves excellent Norcia ham, first courses with truffles and other delicacies.
4th stage Sant'Anatolia – Terni
Instead of heading to Norcia continuing on the Nera Cycle Route, head towards the descent of the river and walk along its banks, crossing naturalistic oases and historic centers, some very special and worthy of a stop. In Ferrentillo, for example, the Museum of mummies in the crypt of the church of Santo Stefano it collects bodies of the dead of ancient times. But there are even less "strong" attractions (in Scheggino, Ceselli, Arrone and in San Pietro in Valle). Terni can be reached in 35 km and 255 meters in altitude, and from here – after an excursion to Marmore waterfalls – the next day you can take the train to Cittaducale (42 minutes, 4.5 €), from which to start the second part of the cycle tour. To sleep: Residence Bizzoni, a stone's throw from the historic center but surrounded by greenery (tel: 0744 44241); to eat: Umami restaurant, with chef Diego's seasonal menus, from tagliatelle with cream of black garlic, licorice, mozzarella and mint to crispy pork in oriental sauce and sesame with steamed bread (tel: 0744 427629).
5th stage Terni – Cittaducale (with visit to the Marmore)
Admired by San Francesco, designed by Leonardo Da Vinci, even mentioned by Dante The divine Comedy and then celebrated by the greatest English poets of the nineteenth century, Lord Byron primarily, the Marmore Falls are one of the natural wonders of our country. If you are in Terni, that is, just 7 km away, you cannot miss them. For info on guided excursions, timetables and reservations, visit the website here. Wonder is assured. On the way back, take the train and arrive at Cittaducale in the province of Rieti: founded in 1308 by King Charles II of Anjou, it belonged to the province of Aquila for more than six centuries, until its passage into Lazio in 1927. To sleep: Casa Vacanze Bianca, a charming recently renovated apartment in the heart of the medieval city, which can accommodate up to 5 people (tel: 347 6064559). To eat: La tagliata, a butchery that makes excellent burgers with homemade rustic sandwich and first courses of fresh pasta.
6th stage Cittaducale – Cittareale
Travel on the bike continues along the spectacular Gorges of the Velino, very deep ravines dug by the Velino river and interspersed with waterfalls, precipitous walls and very scenic caves (of San Quirico, Oscura, Romualdo, Strambo del Paladino and Fosso di Portella). Continue along the state road and some abandoned sections, carefully avoiding the tunnels and arriving in Cittareale, also in the province of Rieti, after stopping at Antrodoco, home of the first battle of the Italian Risorgimento. Curiosity: Antrodoco is one of the municipalities that is proclaimed Central Italy, in competition with its capital Rieti (Umbilicus Italiae), Urbino (Center of the world) and Foligno (At the center of the world). To sleep: Agriturismo Lu Ceppe, family atmosphere in close contact with nature, with simple but accurate cuisine (tel: 0746 947085).
7th Cittareale stage – Arquata del Tronto
The Torrita pass, at an altitude of 1017 meters, marks the border between the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic sides. The climb is a bit steep, but after skirting the Scandarello lake you can stop at Accumoli, a mountain village of 1100 painfully hit by the 2016 earthquake. Following the route of the old Via Salaria you arrive in the Marche and continue towards Tufo and, subsequently, Arquata. To sleep: B&B Trisungo (tel: 0736 803901). To eat: Typical mountain cuisine with grilled meat, porcini mushrooms and truffles, at the Il Ponticello Restaurant Pizzeria (tel: 0736809728).
8th stage Arquata del Tronto – Ascoli Piceno
After Acquasanta Terme you will pass on the other side of the Tronto, arriving at Ponte d’Arlì, in the heart of Sibillini Mountains National Park. Follow the old Salaria route passing through the narrowest gorges of the Tronto valley, up to Mozzano (to eat: Pizza in the square, via don Rossi). Then, following the Franciscan Way of the Marca, you will arrive in Ascoli, where there will be a coffee and priest's hat with rum at the historic Caffè Meletti in Piazza del Popolo. To sleep: Hotel Sant’Emidio, historic 18th century building in the heart of the historic center (tel: 0736 258626). To eat: At La Locanda del Medioevo the atmosphere of the 1300s is found in the menu with Ascoli specialties and typical dishes of the time (tel: 0736250695).
Last stop: San Benedetto del Tronto
Head towards Pagliare, a locality of the Oasis immersed in the countryside with renaturalised lakes obtained from former quarries. Then follow the cycle path that runs along the bank of the Tronto (you will be right on the border between Marche and Abruzzo) until you reach Porto d'Ascoli and the mouths of the Bilge nature reserve. From here take the Adriatic Cycle Route for 4km, which will take you to the San Benedetto del Tronto coast, the arrival point of your trip. To sleep: B&B La Casa Sulla Spiaggia, where the name doesn't lie (tel: 338 713 5040); to eat: I Perdigiorno, whose menu is prepared every day depending on the availability of the gardener and the butcher (tel: 0735 586113). «Few dishes to remember, says the claim of the room. A bit like the spirit of this itinerary on the road.
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