The (culinary) king of Rome has returned to the ninth floor of the hotel in the Monte Mario area which changed the gastronomic history of the capital: after seven months of work it has reopened The Pergola And Heinz Beck -61 year old German from Baden-Wuttemberg – returns to the bridge. Arriving in 1994, he not only remained among us but took over the current restaurant Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel to constant, relentless growth. Combining French technique, Teutonic rigor and an increasingly Italic palate: the third Michelin Star, conquered in 2005, remains the only one in Rome but the city’s record goes beyond recognition. Now we start again: the promise made by the chef during the closing time (“Nothing will be as before” he told us) has been kept, starting from the environment which, beyond the general elegance and the sensational view of the Eternal City, needed of a renewal so as not to expire – in the room, let it be clear – in the fané.
Art collection
The project of the ‘new Pergola’ is signed by the prestigious Parisian studio Jouin Manku, founded by Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku. Light and harmonious lines; warm colors inspired by typical Roman materials such as terracotta, travertine, Alcantara, silk; the contribution of the lights, which makes the atmosphere intimate. Pine wood was also used as decoration, blending in with the surrounding landscape. «It was a delicate, simple and conceptual work. We reasoned in a pure way, seeking harmony between what comes from the place itself, the view, the moment we experience. I like to say that we gave a sixties touch to the modern look” explains architect Patrick Jouin. To further embellish the interiors there are the most valuable pieces from the Rome Cavalieri art collection. The transformation also involved the mise en placethanks to a careful selection of elements designed and created exclusively for the La Pergola table.
No waste
The change, however, is not only formal, but also involves the gastronomic offer designed by Heinz Beck, although the fundamental values remain unchanged: health, well-being and circular cuisine. However, during the lockdown period, the chef and his team dedicated themselves to research in order to further minimize waste. «I have changed my cooking style several times in these 30 years, but I have never followed trends. Now we’re going to do a new step towards the nature that surrounds us in a healthy cooking direction. We associate the concept of diet with renunciation but this is not the case, through modern techniques we can provide foods rich in micronutrients, we are increasingly moving towards our body’s needs” underlines the German chef, author of several books on the subject.
0.1%, the new signature dish
So much attention has been paid to the study of natural biological or enzymatic processes for food transformation, as well as the use of new technologies to maximize flavours, especially in the vegetable sector. This is why Heinz Beck’s basket is increasingly rich in spontaneous or sourced raw materials biodynamic and regenerative agricultureto. 0.1% is the name of the dish that best summarizes Beck’s renewed approach. A hymn to the essentiality of nature against the superfluous produced by man: a Sanpietrino, a typical porphyry cube of the paving of the streets of Rome, made with a freeze-dried tomato and charcoal. It is surrounded by spontaneous herbs, which represent nature reconquering the territory occupied by man. «The quality of a meal can be understood the next morning when we wake up in great shape. We have to give a wonderful evening and an even better morning” says Heinz, who has been working on this issue for some time.
Two tastings
He is always at the helm of the 60 thousand bottle cellar Marco Reitano, who has supported Beck for 30 years. Unlike current trends at Pergola there is no pre-matched wine pairing. Better that way if you think about it, the instinct of the moment will make a memorable experience even better. As before, more than before. Also because, considering the location and the brand, the prices are those of the moment, without excesses: the ten-course tasting costs 350 euros, the seven-course one 290, otherwise we proceed with the menu. In Paris or London there would be many, many more.
