From the fall in the eighties to the rebirth of our days. Which can also pass through a perfectly prepared drink. Here are the special recipes of the bartender Roberto Tranchida
The history of Marsala looks like a rock star in every way. Famous throughout the world and with immense talent, of course, but with a career marked by many, many ups and downs. Let's try to retrace it together.
History of Marsala
Born and raised in its own territory of origin, the Western Sicily, our star is discovered by an English talent scout, who suggests new artistic directions and makes it known globally. But we know it well, popularity and quality, often and willingly stop making rhyme in time: and here then that after an explosion of fame in the seventies and eighties – due to somewhat questionable commercial initiatives – the wind changes direction; and with a reputation now partially compromised, the crisis is inevitable. There is nothing left to do, therefore, that we roll up our sleeves, change course completely and start again Aim high, recovering the most authentic spirit of its origins.
This is, in a truly extreme synthesis, the path that the famous Sicilian fortified wine has found itself covering over the last three centuries, from the landfall of the English merchant John Woodhouse in Sicily in 1773 to the boom of the "Marsala al'uovo" and the like of the past decades, up to today's attempts at rehabilitation. Yes, because eradicating the mental association between “Marsala” and “sweet wine to be used more than anything else in the kitchen in the preparation of sauces or desserts” is a long and complex process, which has yet to go through two fundamental stages: that of succeeding in propose and tell a increasingly high quality product; and that of identifying new consumption opportunities, perhaps trying to conquer its own place in the increasingly diverse world of cocktails and mixology. A road that still today is uphill, but that shows great possibilities for tomorrow.
A tradition to re-evaluate
"It is not just a mere ingredient for the kitchen, but neither is it a wine strictly for meditation or to be relegated to dessert: Marsala is a product to be rediscovered, much more versatile than one might think". The speaker is Francesco Intorcia, proud owner of one of the few specialized wineries in Marsala who were able to withstand the darkest years of the crisis. He tells us about market developments and projects aimed at future generations, while he invites us to walk among the casks of his establishment, where we find future wines of superb quality that have been resting in wood for over three decades. Here, intoxicated by patience and the very pleasant scent of oxidized that rises from the glass, we have the opportunity to taste the different labels of the line Francesco Intorcia Heritage, a new project that aims to reconstruct an allure of exclusivity around this great wine of the Sicilian tradition.
Here, then, we find his majesty between the aging and the different blends foreseen by the complex disciplinary of the Doc Marsala Vintage 1980 Dry Virgin Reserve, produced with Grillo grapes and left to rest in oak barrels for over 35 years: a very prestigious, vigorous mineral wine, embellished with persuasive touches of vanilla, toasted almonds and candied orange peel. But also the Marsala Vintage 2004 Superior Amber Sweet, always produced with Grillo grapes, very soft on the palate, with hints of figs, dates, licorice and caramel. Or, again, the Marsala Vintage 2015 Upper Ruby, obtained from the grapes of Nero d’Avola, which presents itself as a highly contemporary proposal, with notes of cherry, wild berries and flint.
Between cocktails and the future
"We would like even the youngest to start getting passionate about Marsala," continues Intorcia. "For us producers it is essential to bet on the new generations: we obviously want Marsala to come back as popular as it used to be, but this time without compromising on quality". So how can we get back on the crest of the wave? Proposing unpublished all-meal pairings that allow you to rediscover the most interesting features of the product, for example. Or, alternatively, focusing on mixology, a young sector, in continuous development and with very wide possibilities. Why not, the use of Marsala within a cocktail it should not be seen as a mortification of the product: a good bartender – just like a good chef – knows how to enhance even the most exclusive of ingredients, discovering all the best combination possibilities.
«The beauty of Marsala is that it brings with it a centuries-old history, but it is also very ready to question and reinvent itself. It is perfect to bring to the table as it is, of course, but it is also very interesting to use to prepare new drinks, "he says Roberto Tranchida, bar manager of the renowned Juparanà of Marsala. "We can try it, for example, as an alternative to the classic Vermouth, playing with its facets, its same color that can go from golden to intense ruby". Here are some interesting proposals that the Sicilian bartender gives us to use creatively the dear old Marsala. For a toast, to be replicated also at home, to the history and the desire for revenge of this pride of the Sicilian tradition.
Elixir of the West
Ingredients
3 cl Marsala Superiore Rubino
3 cl bitters
2 dash aromatic bitter
Red fruit and citrus soda
Technique: build.
Preparation
Insert all the ingredients directly into the low tumbler filled with ice and mix.
Decoration: lemon zest and fresh blackberry.
Southern Gold
Ingredients
5 cl Marsala Superiore Oro
3 cl Rhum agricole
1 cl sugar syrup
2 dash bitters in orange colors
Technique: stir & strain.
Preparation
Pour all the ingredients into a mixing glass, add ice and mix, pour into a very cold cocktail glass.
Decoration: bay leaf.
Elizabeth
Ingredients
3 cl Marsala Vergine
3 cl frangelico
3 cl spiced Rum
1 cl lemon juice
1 cl sugar syrup
Technique: shake & strain
Preparation
Pour the ingredients directly into a shaker, add ice, shake and strain into a low tumbler filled with ice.
Decoration: cinnamon stick.
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