I recently changed my way to go to work. I leave the Milan hinterland behind me, I also overtake the mist of the Niemeyer palace, headquarters Mondadori, and continue to the center. Through Città Studi, a Milanese district full of university faculties and I walk a road that I did many years ago. Then I stopped by "little heart", a very young bartender who every morning drew a heart on my cappuccino with cocoa and what is now a frequent gesture in Milanese bars thirty years ago seemed wonderful to me. The bar is still there but he is not. I continue and arrive right in the center, facing the Central Station, here resides the our new publishing house Stile Italia Edizioni, directed by Maurizio Belpietro. From my window a new panorama.
Accustomed to the muffled silence of the Mondadorian headquarters, I see trams, cars, endless passers-by, hotels, offices. In short, to put it in the words of Giorgio Gaber I see "The city alive, large, full of streets and shops and windows full of light, with many people working and many people producing." I see Milan "to drink" and also a lot "to eat", given the explosion of catering in the city.
And it seemed clear to me that this month's editorial should be dedicated to Milan, the city which is a reference for the food culture. As demonstrated by some chefs who, thinking of the Milanese center, have created a dish: from the starry Davide Oldani, inventor of the Pop kitchen, with his "Saffron and Milanese rice D’O" (Lombard rice and saffron of three young farmers from Varedo) presented at Expo 2015, at the "Golden Raviolo" of Gong (innovative Chinese restaurant), a dumpling of saffron pasta stuffed with ossobuco and Milanese risotto cream, up to "Marrow and saffron", a curious dessert of Davide Caranchini, a Michelin star at the Materia restaurant in Cernobbio.
Then recently I tasted the "Spaghetto Milano" of Andrea Ribaldone, a Michelin star at Osteria Arborina in the Langhe and responsible for catering since 2018 at Identità Golose Milano, the first international catering hub. The characteristic of this dish is given by the particular creaming of the pasta with a Milanese risotto cream, which I propose in the Salt & Pepper version of our food stylist Claudia Compagni.
A way to share the news and the beauty of a craft that allows the editorial staff and me to make food culture through the texts, images and recipes of a magazine over thirty years old and to communicate it on Facebook and Instagram, on the website or in more pragmatic with the courses of the Salt & Pepper Cooking School. Growing hand in hand with Milan.
Laura Maragliano
on Sale & Pepe of March 2020
portrait of Gianmarco Folcolini,
photo of Francesca Moscheni's plate
RECIPE:
Spaghetto Milan
400 g of spaghetti – 2 shanks of veal cut thick – 30 g of tomato paste – 50 g of ossobuco brown background (in artisan butchers) – 1 celery stick – 1 carrot – 1 blonde onion green – 1 bay leaf – oil extra virgin olive oil – salt
for the rice cream 120 g of Carnaroli rice – 1 liter of vegetable broth – 30 g of grated PDO Grana Padano cheese – 1 sachet of saffron in stigmas – 20 g of butter – salt
for the gremolada 1 untreated lemon – 1 bunch of parsley – extra virgin olive oil
1 Cut the edges of the ossobuchi in various places with a small knife so that they do not curl in the cooking, salt them and put them in a vacuum bag with bay leaf and a few tablespoons of oil. bake with the roner (a special machine for cooking at controlled temperature) at 71 ° for 10 hours (or scroll and see the alternative).
2 Clean and wash celery, carrot and onion and dice them. Chop the meat of the ossibuchi, combine it in a pan with the diced of vegetables, the concentrate of tomato and the brown bottom and cook the ragù for 20 minutes.
3 Heat the broth. Toast the rice in a saucepan without dressing, wet it with a ladle of broth, add the saffron and continue cooking for 20 minutes adding a ladle of broth every time it dries. Off the heat stir in the butter and parmesan. Adjust salt if necessary and whisk all with cream: if it is too thick, add a little broth; keep aside what is left.
4 Wash the lemon and leaves of parsley, make the grated rind of the first one and mince the latter. Put them in a bowl and cover them with oil. Bake spaghetti in abundant salted water, drain and stir in the rice cream and a little broth. Spread them on the plates, place a little ragù on each one and season with the wire gremolada. If you like, complete with the marrow.
The alternative with the oven
If you don't the car of the vacuum and the roner, cook the ossibuchi (after cutting them the edges) like this: salt them and brown them with 4 tablespoons of oil in a pan that can go into the oven. Add the bay leaf and 3 dl of boiling broth, cover them and cook them in a preheated oven at 160 ° for 2 hours. Then proceed as indicated in the recipe.
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