How to make the pissaladière of Nice (and its Ligurian version) – Italian Cuisine


A French anchovy focaccia that has all the flavors of the Mediterranean. Excellent hot for the aperitif, but also as cold as a schiscetta to take to the office

This recipe was born in Nice and is famous throughout the south of France. The origin of the name comes from pissalat that is salted fish because in its original version there was one salted fish based cream.
Today the pissaladière is the focaccia prepared with one salted anchovy filling cooked with onions and aromatic herbs. The extra touch is given by the black olives which are used as a final decoration.
The best ones are typically French, but you can also use good Italian Taggiasca olives.

The pissaladière recipe

First prepare the base, which is a classic bread dough.
work 320 g of 00 flour with 2 g of dry brewer's yeast, 180 ml of water at room temperature e 15 g of extra virgin olive oil. Also add a teaspoon of malt or honey and work the dough well.
Only at the end add a pinch of salt and let it rise for a couple of hours.
Meanwhile, wash well 400 g of anchovies in salt eliminating the head and the central bone.
In a pan, cook with extra virgin olive oil and a dash of water a kilo of onions finely chop, keeping the medium-low heat.
Add half-cooked desalted capers and a mixture of thyme and bay leaves and, after having made the onions flavor well, add also 50 g of pureed anchovies or chopped with a knife (a part of those previously washed).
Be careful, the onions must not take too much color, but only soften and blend with the other ingredients.
Once the dough has risen, roll it out with your hands inside a well-oiled baking pan.
Season with the cream of onions and then decorate the pissaladière with the remaining anchovies, creating a reticulate similar to that of a classic tart. You can also arrange the anchovies in a different way, the important thing is that they are one beautiful decoration for the focaccia. Also add some desiccated caper and the black olives and bake in 200 ° for about 25 minutes.

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Puff pastry, yes or no?

If you do not want to prepare the base of the pissaladière you can use puff pastry or brisé ready, but let's be honest, the result will not be the same.
The particularity of this focaccia is also the consistency which must be more or less than a pizza.
Pizza
dough already ready? Yes, but only if you really don't have time.

The Ligurian version: the sardenaira

There is an all-Italian version of the pissaladière.
It is typical of Liguria, precisely of Sanremo And his name is sardenaira.
To prepare it, you must first add more yeast in the dough which will be high and soft just like that of the Ligurian fugassa.
For 500 g of flour, 12 g of yeast, 250 g of water, 60 g of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt are required.
Once the base is prepared and left to rise for a few hours, roll it out and season it with tomato pulp, capers, desalted olives, anchovies in very clean salt, abundant oregano and cloves of garlic in shirt. And this is precisely the peculiarity of this recipe. Not one or two segments, but at least a dozen scattered over the entire surface.
Then cook the focaccia after seasoning it with extra virgin olive oil at 230 ° for about 25 minutes.

Italian cuisine according to the Muscovite inspiration of Nikita Sergeev – Italian Cuisine

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Born in Moscow in 89, just when, with the fall of the Berlin wall, the season of gourmand cooking was also opened, Nikita Sergeev he has been enchanted since he was a child by the art of good food. At home she helped Grandma Tamara in her culinary works. In restaurants around the world, along with parents, travelers and gourmets, he tasted sensational dishes. This left him with the desire to make it his own.

178156After graduating in Political Science in Moscow, when he had already elected Porto San Giorgio his home of election (after a thousand holidays he had moved there) fate gave him a hand. The degree in Italy was not valid, it had to change country or profession. In a few weeks the turning point: he looked for a haute cuisine school, he found Alma and in 2103 he had already opened L’Arcade. Only 7 tables for 9 people between kitchen and dining room where you can enjoy pink prawns with fermented vegetable extract, shrimps cooked in the whey, tortina tortelli in broth of baby octopus or grilled eel with sour cream. Fascinated by Italian cuisine that he defines as "balanced and democratic, good for the rich and for the poor", Nikita interprets it with the curiosity of the foreigner who takes nothing for granted, exalting the best of our tradition, without denying small incursions into the native culture: fermented, smoked, macerated and many berries, turnips and mushrooms combined with its magical dishes. Niitidi and decided like him.

178162Gourmet elegance
The restaurantArcade of Porto San Giorgio it is a small temple of good taste, not just palatial. The environment and the furnishings are essential, classic and dreamy, played on cream tones, with white tablecloths, spatulated walls and parquet. On paper, many fresh and typical fish dishes from the Marche, vincisgrassi and moscioli (wild mussels) included (ristorantelarcade.it).

A volcano of ideas
After an internship at the Al Tramezzo restaurant in Parma, Nikita opened her restaurant in 2013 with a very close-knit brigade, an eclectic menu and a wine list of the highest order. Much effort and exceptional talent have brought him into Jre in 2018 and the opening of the new Banco_12 restaurant inside the Porto San Giorgio market. It's a bit of a bistro, a bit of a shop: you can even find the stuffing for fresh pasta and you can have breakfast there. A more informal place to let people know about their kitchen idea by reviving the old city market and giving more taste to socializing.

Click here for his recipe of Wild salmon, pears and Tropea onion

by Silvia Bombelli, photo by Michele Tabozzi
on Sale & Pepe in September 2019

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