Not everything does broth, rather. One who agrees with us is definitely one Eugenio Boer, chef-patron of the Bu: r restaurant in Milan who has always had a passion for broth comme il faut even in previous experiences. “I was lucky: my grandmother did it carefully even when it wasn't Sunday and it made me happy. Never experienced the sensation of broth as something banal or hospital-like. I have always experienced it as a dish, enriched with pasta or rice. And I carried within the memory of the gesture , says the chef born in Rapallo, but with a Dutch surname. From good family habits to the profession, which he began at a very young age around Europe. With clear ideas when the gelling and deconstruction of the 2000s they seemed to relegate the classic broths – France and the East aside, with their centuries-old traditions – to culinary antiques. Instead, for five years, there has been a return to the topic.
Beware of impurities
«As we go more and more towards a light and natural cuisine, I think there is ample room for broths, as long as they are well prepared, continues the chef. “That's why I want the clear broths, crystalline aesthetically perfect and with a clean taste: makes the difference compared to a normal or poorly prepared preparation. Even during the service in the dining room, all the broths are served at the last to have the right temperature according to the accompaniment ". Boer puts theory into practice, starting with clarified broth, the consommé as the French call it: decidedly tasty and concentrated in aromas and nuances. He gave us the recipe: it is not complicated, but it requires attention ("you must always remove impurities during cooking") and the right time. But it's worth it, thinking about the advantage of stocking up on broth to freeze – ice bags are fine – for later use.
The Morozzo Capon
A broth that goes very well with stuffed pasta. We mention two, above average. The first, historical, behind the name (coincidentally) of Capon of Morozzo hides a miscellany of cappelletti in broth, which brings together the whole bird (for the record, the first Slow Food Presidium) and its ideal preparations under sheets of pasta. There are four fillings: the breast at low temperature, the thigh with the skin dried in cooking oil, the wings stewed with mushrooms and the Tuscan giblets with red wine, capers and anchovies. While the bones end up in a flavored broth (with anise, cognac and flavorings), clarified with the meat and beaded with extra virgin, which is poured from a teapot. Pure enjoyment.
An author's reinterpretation
Instead, the Boiled in its own broth: five cappelletti, each with a different filling of a specific cut of the boiled meat (biancostat, tongue, head, cotechino and hen) and covered with green pasta obtained with a cold extract of parsley. The cappelletti – dipped in capon broth – are seasoned with parsley oil, capers and anchovies, aimed at recalling the classic green sauce. Boer added a red ravioli made with tomato flour and peppers, with Cremona mustard inside. A greedy reinterpretation of the Italian tradition, which requires a high level hand like that of Boer. But the his broth is also the perfect companion to meat tortellini: this is proved by the success of the dish that is part of the (successful) delivery managed by the chef with his partner Carlotta Perilli. It must be said that in every city there are excellent pasta factories as in homes there is no shortage of Italians (or Italians) who know how to prepare stuffed pasta. The problem is the broth: so study the recipe.
For the broth
1 Morozzo capon, 3 carrots, 3 celery sticks, 3 onions, 8 Sawarak black peppercorns, 2 cloves, 5 juniper berries.
500 g minced beef, 4 egg whites, 5 black Sawarak peppercorns, 2 cloves, 5 juniper berries, 4 cl of dried marsala, 4 cl of brandy, 100 g of carrot cut into mirepoix, 100 g of celery cut into mirepoix, 100 g of copper onion cut into mirepoix.
The recipe told by Boer
«After having washed all the vegetables well, cut the onions in half and roast them in a non-stick pan until they are toasted only on one side. Then the other vegetables provided for the broth are coarsely cut and the breasts of the capon are taken and set aside. The vegetables and the capon are placed cold in a large pot, covered with about 5 liters of water and ignited over a moderate flame. When it comes to a boil, the impurities are removed with a skimmer and the heat is reduced. After four hours of cooking, filter everything and cool it (preferably in a blast chiller) to eliminate any fat. In the meantime, the clarification is being prepared by combining all the ingredients required plus the minced capon breasts with a knife in a meatloaf. Once this is done, put the cooled broth and the mixture into a saucepan: light it over moderate heat, making sure to always mix so that the meatloaf does not stick to the bottom of the pot. When the broth is about to come to a boil and the mixture has hardened on the surface (it must never break) with a ladle make a hole in the center so that it can simmer, slowly venting and taking an intense amber color. Turn off the heat, waiting for the solid mixture to settle on the bottom and filter gently, always without breaking the meatloaf. Remember to adjust each liter of clarified broth with 8 g of salt and that when it is heated – after defrosting it – it must never come to a boil .