Tag: Bassa

The pears (and apples) of the Bassa Friulana – Italian Cuisine

The pears (and apples) of the Bassa Friulana


The story of a pioneer family: the Geremia family, who, believing very much in what they were doing, transformed the Bassa Friulana into a land of pears and apples

Did you know that pears are produced in the Bassa Friulana, particularly in the Latisanese area? And over time, apple production has also been added. But if this has been possible it is thanks to Jeremiah family, which after numerous studies on its land, was far-sighted and first undertook these crops, followed by many others. "We really believed it." And in doing so they managed to transform this territory into a small oasis of fruit, harvested and hand-processed one by one directly from them.

The pears

It all started with David Jeremiah, son of Antonio. Family of sharecroppers for generations, in their lands they had always grown vegetables such as asparagus, potatoes, radicchio, mostly on behalf of third parties. But pears and apples never: in Latisana they had practically never seen each other. Until in the nineties Davide's brilliant intuition: to carry out soil analyzes to understand which could be the most suitable type of cultivation, the one that would allow to use even less pesticides. And so the verdict: the Latin, that is the area that goes from Latisana to the coast of Lignano, turns out to be suited to fruit growing, in particular pears, having the right acidity that these fruits need. In 1991 the Geremia family planted their first pear trees on 10 hectares: Abbot, Conference, William Bianco and Rosso, to which over time other varieties such as Carmen (perfect for juice!) e Saint Mary. And just think that they have invested everything in a fruit like the pear, which has never had and continues to not have the same success as the apple, if not abroad, where the Italian one in particular is slightly more sought after. After collecting them in the coming period from July to September, are washed, selected and checked one by one manually; then most of it is sent in a few hours to a Cooperative in Emilia Romagna (the largest producer of these fruits in Italy) which deals with marketing. Only a small percentage, in particular of the smaller pears, considered less interesting on the market, are handcrafted in their laboratory, where they produce jams is 100% pear juices, without sugar or chemical additives. Absolutely recommended tasting in their delightful little shop!

Apples

Over the years the company has passed into the hands of the children: Marco, aerospace engineer, Michela, today the backbone, and your husband Andrea Businaro. She was employed for years, then she decided to continue the family business also in the hope of spending more time with her children Antonio is Ines. "In the end, of course, I work more, but at least I stay at home with them, who live and breathe the air of the company". In 2008, with the idea of ​​diversifying production, they decided to do a second analysis of the soil, which this time is also suitable for apples. In a short time their plots are filled with Golden, Pink, Fuji and especially Modì which, as Michela explains, "is an underrated apple, very juicy and fibrous, ideal for both table and cake, but never properly advertised". The success is incredible: other companies in the area begin to follow in their footsteps and the Latisanese is increasingly identified with the production of these fruits. But remember that this would not have been possible if it had not been for this family, which in the years in which the market, especially fruit, looked abroad, have staked everything and not without difficulty, on a 100% Italian product. . Again, after the harvest takes place from July to December depending on climate and variety, they send most of the apples to Emilia Romagna, alongside a small production of juices and jams and since 2012 also of dried apples directly from them. Alternatively, if you want to try them fresh, just a stone's throw from the company, there is Alessandro Businaro, brother of Andrea, chef of one of the best restaurants in the region: From Boschet, where in addition to his various specialties based on strictly local fresh fish (certainly not lacking in the area!), he also prepares dishes with the fruits grown by his brother, especially in the small pastry shop. But only when available, because the whole family agrees on this: "We must learn to follow seasonality and availability, to eat the fruits when they are there and to do without them when it is not the season". Yet, those who work in the countryside know this well: there is little that can really be foreseen, as what happened last year teaches us.

The Asian marble bug

Much has been said about the olive fly, while much less has been said about the bug that attacked and destroyed the production of apples and pears. It is a parasite of Asian origin, the marble, which has deformed the fruits, causing necrosis inside them and thus making it impossible to consume them. This tragedy has also affected other areas of Italy, but the Friuli was by far the most affected region: just think that last year for the Geremia family, the loss was almost total, almost 100%, on an annual production of about 2500-3000 quintals. This year the problem has only been partially solved: still many pears and apples have been affected by the marble and studies continue to try to understand how to definitively resolve the issue. "But let's go ahead, because we believe very much in what we do". In fact they continue to use a integrated pest management system, that is, to eradicate other harmful insects in their orchards with a targeted settlement of their natural enemies, thus minimizing the use of chemicals. Because the Geremia family are a team, they are one of those beautiful families to know, who dedicate their entire life to doing something good, both at the table and for the land, and for which we must thank.

Not only casoncelli: the greedy awakening of the Bassa – Italian Cuisine

Not only casoncelli: the greedy awakening of the Bassa


From the Oglio to the Churches going down towards the Po: never as now is a territory rich in good things and interesting places. Among emerging chefs, timeless classics and gourmet taverns. Here is the route

«I have been wandering through my Lombard country and I decided to discover the Lombards in front of the mulch, which is always and invariably a form of civilization. I discovered the Lombards with the eyes of the frank bassaiolo whom I was born and remain. I didn't want to see magnitudes except in authentic humility. In the end I concluded that the most complete kitchen in Italy is theirs. I do not believe in the gilding of imported gastronomes. I don't believe in fairy tales but neither do I neglect the legends, at the origin of which it is often the truth .

Poetry, tradition and innovation

Thus, in 1973, he wrote Gianni Brera in The mulch (binge, scorpacciata), masterpiece of history and cuisine, where the Gran Lombardo was joined by the master Luigi Veronelli, the intellectual who invented food and wine criticism, talking about food and wine in RAI in black and white from the 70s. The Bassa di Brera was a timeless place of the palate and the soul, which – but it is our vision – has a greater charm in the winter period. However, the Bassa Bresciana – well known to him – has brought and continues to make a great contribution to this poem made of tradition, but also of innovation.

From the casoncelli of the thousand festivals to the magical pizzas of Sirani, from the immortal spit to the revisitations of the Sixteenth Century where a thirty-year-old chef such as Simone Breda – bassaiolo who can't be bassaiolo – has been showing a Michelin star for a year. Bagnolo Mella and Orzinuovi are now famous among Italian gourmets: it was from the time of the Calvisano shrimp, uninterrupted star-studded since 1989 – always in vogue, thanks to the skill of the Gavazzi family – who didn't talk so much about an area full of good products, delicious recipes, passion for the table. Which is not "stuck", as many think, if anything respectful of the past and with the innate desire to improve. This explains the century-old nobility of the Salame Cotto of Quinzano d’Oglio which does not conflict with the Calvisius phenomenon, the Brescia caviar which is now served in the restaurants of Moscow and New York from the great pools of the Agroittica Lombarda.

A promising future

If we were to find a common thread among the rooms selected in our gallery, it is the love for food and wine served as an accompaniment. Certainly easier for those who are children of the Bassa, but almost natural even to those who chose it to write a new story. We allow ourselves a parochial dream, thinking of the three stars assigned in 2017 to Norbert Niederkofler, guru of St. Hubertus in Alta Badia: they did not change much in the culinary history of South Tyrol, but made Italians understand that there was an extraordinary mountain cuisine, well handed down from the past to the present and towards the future. Here, we would like that on the wave of the new star and some good ideas amid the (little) fog that makes everything magical, other enfant du pays – but also imported talents – together with the old cooker guard, committed themselves to exalt the values ​​of the Bassa. In a contemporary key, but never losing history.

Sirani – Bagnolo Mella

Nerio Beghi, patron and character out of the ordinary, has made of a remote farmhouse one of the most complete greedy places in Italy: bar, pastry shop and pizzeria are at the top of the guides, thanks to an incredible passion and a continuous study, especially on the dough . Worth a stop from morning to night, because good ideas abound.

Antica Trattoria La Pergolina – Capriano del Colle

Since 1877 here is made typical cuisine, although in recent years the fish dishes have entered a menu where the meat is historic protagonist, starting from the spit upon reservation. Do not miss the series of hot appetizers and bagels tortelli. The place is suggestive.

Osteria La Villetta – Palazzolo sull'Oglio

Just the fact that the trendissimo magazine Monocle inserts it into the first 100 "real" places in the world to understand that we are in the Osteria, a place of soul and food. Known to all Italian gourmets, it is a place to taste cult dishes such as Tris della Villetta, Iseo fish, gnocchi … You can drink very well, starting with the Franciacorta DOCG selection.

Saur – Orzinuovi

Saur, which in Brescian dialect means "flavor", is the bet of three young people who make contemporary dishes and mix the cards with balance and wisdom. An example? Pig with cauliflower, walnuts and yellow Barco kiwi.

Leon d’Oro – Pralboino

You are always comfortable in the country house of the Martini family, in the town center: warm wooden rooms with fireplace, very classic mise en place, great hospitality. The menu offers regional dishes alongside other more creative, fish-based dishes. Large cellar.

Sixteenth Century – Orzinuovi

The most recent starry of the Bassa is housed within the walls of a 16th century palace in Pudiano. In the kitchen is Simone Breda, a talented young man with important masters such as Gualtiero Marchesi and Moreno Cedroni. Never dull dishes, full taste and attentive service.

Gaudio – Barbariga

In the homeland of casoncelli, a contemporary (and elegant) restaurant led by the Papa brothers who are divided between the kitchen and the dining room. Territory, research and evolution – their words – are the basis of various tasting menus. And seasonality is sacred: now it's time for game.

Shrimp – Calvisano

One of the most loved restaurants by Brescians (and those coming from far away), Michelin-starred since 1989 and run by the Gavazzi family. A rich and articulated paper, where the new dishes are inserted between imperishable signature dishes. Classy ambiance, perfect service and a cellar to take away any satisfaction, especially if you love France.

Dal Dosso – Salamensa – Montichiari

Miracle among the sheds: a multifunctional room, of pure design and with many covers, in which every preparation, from pizza to gastronomy, is carried out on sight. Restaurant, gourmet pizzeria, breakfast and snack bar, bakery. All in the name of quality and with great attention to food intolerances, with themed menus.

Al Fienile – Palazzolo sull'Oglio

A "young" pizzeria for both the years of activity – it has been open since 2013 – and for the vision of the product. But he immediately won over fans for the quality of the dough (even longer than 72 hours) and the selected topping, mostly chosen among Slow Food Presidia. The environment is pleasant.

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