From the Oglio to the Churches going down towards the Po: never as now is a territory rich in good things and interesting places. Among emerging chefs, timeless classics and gourmet taverns. Here is the route
«I have been wandering through my Lombard country and I decided to discover the Lombards in front of the mulch, which is always and invariably a form of civilization. I discovered the Lombards with the eyes of the frank bassaiolo whom I was born and remain. I didn't want to see magnitudes except in authentic humility. In the end I concluded that the most complete kitchen in Italy is theirs. I do not believe in the gilding of imported gastronomes. I don't believe in fairy tales but neither do I neglect the legends, at the origin of which it is often the truth .
Poetry, tradition and innovation
Thus, in 1973, he wrote Gianni Brera in The mulch (binge, scorpacciata), masterpiece of history and cuisine, where the Gran Lombardo was joined by the master Luigi Veronelli, the intellectual who invented food and wine criticism, talking about food and wine in RAI in black and white from the 70s. The Bassa di Brera was a timeless place of the palate and the soul, which – but it is our vision – has a greater charm in the winter period. However, the Bassa Bresciana – well known to him – has brought and continues to make a great contribution to this poem made of tradition, but also of innovation.
Great products
From the casoncelli of the thousand festivals to the magical pizzas of Sirani, from the immortal spit to the revisitations of the Sixteenth Century where a thirty-year-old chef such as Simone Breda – bassaiolo who can't be bassaiolo – has been showing a Michelin star for a year. Bagnolo Mella and Orzinuovi are now famous among Italian gourmets: it was from the time of the Calvisano shrimp, uninterrupted star-studded since 1989 – always in vogue, thanks to the skill of the Gavazzi family – who didn't talk so much about an area full of good products, delicious recipes, passion for the table. Which is not "stuck", as many think, if anything respectful of the past and with the innate desire to improve. This explains the century-old nobility of the Salame Cotto of Quinzano d’Oglio which does not conflict with the Calvisius phenomenon, the Brescia caviar which is now served in the restaurants of Moscow and New York from the great pools of the Agroittica Lombarda.
A promising future
If we were to find a common thread among the rooms selected in our gallery, it is the love for food and wine served as an accompaniment. Certainly easier for those who are children of the Bassa, but almost natural even to those who chose it to write a new story. We allow ourselves a parochial dream, thinking of the three stars assigned in 2017 to Norbert Niederkofler, guru of St. Hubertus in Alta Badia: they did not change much in the culinary history of South Tyrol, but made Italians understand that there was an extraordinary mountain cuisine, well handed down from the past to the present and towards the future. Here, we would like that on the wave of the new star and some good ideas amid the (little) fog that makes everything magical, other enfant du pays – but also imported talents – together with the old cooker guard, committed themselves to exalt the values of the Bassa. In a contemporary key, but never losing history.
Sirani – Bagnolo Mella
Nerio Beghi, patron and character out of the ordinary, has made of a remote farmhouse one of the most complete greedy places in Italy: bar, pastry shop and pizzeria are at the top of the guides, thanks to an incredible passion and a continuous study, especially on the dough . Worth a stop from morning to night, because good ideas abound.
Antica Trattoria La Pergolina – Capriano del Colle
Since 1877 here is made typical cuisine, although in recent years the fish dishes have entered a menu where the meat is historic protagonist, starting from the spit upon reservation. Do not miss the series of hot appetizers and bagels tortelli. The place is suggestive.
Osteria La Villetta – Palazzolo sull'Oglio
Just the fact that the trendissimo magazine Monocle inserts it into the first 100 "real" places in the world to understand that we are in the Osteria, a place of soul and food. Known to all Italian gourmets, it is a place to taste cult dishes such as Tris della Villetta, Iseo fish, gnocchi … You can drink very well, starting with the Franciacorta DOCG selection.
Saur – Orzinuovi
Saur, which in Brescian dialect means "flavor", is the bet of three young people who make contemporary dishes and mix the cards with balance and wisdom. An example? Pig with cauliflower, walnuts and yellow Barco kiwi.
Leon d’Oro – Pralboino
You are always comfortable in the country house of the Martini family, in the town center: warm wooden rooms with fireplace, very classic mise en place, great hospitality. The menu offers regional dishes alongside other more creative, fish-based dishes. Large cellar.
Sixteenth Century – Orzinuovi
The most recent starry of the Bassa is housed within the walls of a 16th century palace in Pudiano. In the kitchen is Simone Breda, a talented young man with important masters such as Gualtiero Marchesi and Moreno Cedroni. Never dull dishes, full taste and attentive service.
Gaudio – Barbariga
In the homeland of casoncelli, a contemporary (and elegant) restaurant led by the Papa brothers who are divided between the kitchen and the dining room. Territory, research and evolution – their words – are the basis of various tasting menus. And seasonality is sacred: now it's time for game.
Shrimp – Calvisano
One of the most loved restaurants by Brescians (and those coming from far away), Michelin-starred since 1989 and run by the Gavazzi family. A rich and articulated paper, where the new dishes are inserted between imperishable signature dishes. Classy ambiance, perfect service and a cellar to take away any satisfaction, especially if you love France.
Dal Dosso – Salamensa – Montichiari
Miracle among the sheds: a multifunctional room, of pure design and with many covers, in which every preparation, from pizza to gastronomy, is carried out on sight. Restaurant, gourmet pizzeria, breakfast and snack bar, bakery. All in the name of quality and with great attention to food intolerances, with themed menus.
Al Fienile – Palazzolo sull'Oglio
A "young" pizzeria for both the years of activity – it has been open since 2013 – and for the vision of the product. But he immediately won over fans for the quality of the dough (even longer than 72 hours) and the selected topping, mostly chosen among Slow Food Presidia. The environment is pleasant.
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