La Cucina Italiana, March 2024: the Director’s Editorial – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay


On the number of March now on newsstands you can choose from many recipes all easy and tastyexperiment i traditional spring sweetsa signature Easter lunch and the creations by Sal De Riso. Meanwhile, let’s give the floor to the Director, Maddalena Fossati Dondero.

The Director’s Editorial

«Years ago I went to Sicily to visit the legendary chef Ciccio Sultano; he took me to a cheesemaker who produced delicious ricottas with the milk of his Modica cows. We sat around a table to taste his warm, reassuring, honest-tasting cheese. And with him was his wife. The couple were almost two centuries old together and had been married all their lives, an eternity. The lady clearly brandished obvious leadership, he accepted the
his command in a natural way. «The important thing is not to send your husband to the gym, he said as a formula for arriving untouched at the diamond wedding. A decidedly modern couple despite the context. I recently came across an article by Rina Simonetta which appeared in La Cucina Italiana in 1939 entitled «The woman in her house. There was the celebration of the housewife within the home, of “women who feel their mission as mothers and housewives, not of those ladies who spend their lives in tea rooms, game rooms and dance halls”, I quote verbatim. Now, things have changed a little (fortunately and definitely not enough), and the kitchen is an emblematic and important scenario when we talk about us, girls, women, mothers, friends, sisters. We were segregated there for centuries, then we partly left without entering the kitchens of large restaurants where we are few. At the moment. In any case, today cooking is an act of freedom additional to the more classic one of love: I cook breakfast and dinner every day and I am “a woman in her own house” but I go to tea rooms and the gym and I also drink aperitif (I leave out the gambling houses). Where do I want to go? We still have a long way to go, but many things have changed since 1939, including how and why we cook.

Maddalena Fossati Dondero

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