The 2022 edition of the guide confirms the primacy of the Reale in Castel di Sangro among Italian restaurants. 41 clubs that have obtained the highest recognition, four are new. To Carlo Cracco the award as restaurateur of the year
It will not be original, but the introduction to the 2022 edition of the Gambero Rosso's Italian Restaurant Guide is "the great restart". Albeit with some fears for the next few months, the volume celebrates the return to normality, in the sense that not only the scores of the premises are reviewed, without prejudice to the classification in forks, globes, bottles, casseroles – one, two or three depending on the degree of excellence – but the prizes were awarded in presence at the Rome Marriott Park Hotel of the capital. It is not a small thing, considering what happened last year, starting from the streaming ceremony but also from the difficulties of an accurate evaluation as in past editions. This year has gone better, from the end of May the restaurants have reopened (and it was a great season) but – perhaps also to exorcise fears – the symbols of delivery and take away have remained on the cards of the places that continue to do so.
An exceptional podium
The 2022 edition is not free from changes within the categories, starting with Three Forks. Once the scores are back, Gambero Rosso confirms – as in the 2020 edition – that the best restaurant in Italy is Real (opening photo) in Castel di Sangro (AQ) with 96 cents ahead of theOsteria Francescana of Modena and to Pergola of the Hotel Rome Cavalieri, both at 95 cents. Translated, it means a podium composed respectively of Niko Romito, Massimo Bottura and Heinz Beck. In total, there are 41 Three Forks: three more than in the 2021 edition, but the news (or returns) are four because for the renovation of the Park Hyatt Milan, Andrea Aprea left the Vun to create a new venue in the city. Among the elite, there has been the return of two restaurants in Rome: theIdylio by Francesco Apreda – The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel and the tried and tested La Torre wine shop in Villa Laetitia. Then here it is Dani Maison, in Ischia, where one of the best cooks in the South, Nino Di Costanzo, works. The fourth new entry – certainly the most original of the group – is represented by Andreina, in Loreto: Errico Recanati has conquered the good parlor of critics and is attracting enthusiasts for a kitchen where fire is the fundamental element.
King Charles
Note that for the first time, there is a small list of Two Red Forks with the greatest potential to join the elite: Piccolo Lago in Verbania (VB), Casa Perbellini in Verona, Antica Osteria Cera in Campagna Lupia (VE) , Arnolfo in Colle Val d'Elsa (SI) and Signum in Salina (ME). If Niko Romito earns the cover again, the back cover is definitely for Carlo Cracco: he was awarded the prestigious as Restaurateur of the year, by virtue of the excellent time of Cracco in the Galleria (for Gambero Rosso it is the best venue in Milan), of the new offices (on the Naviglio and Portofino) and also of the television success of the Dinner Club program. To another ace of our restaurant , Mauro Uliassi, the award for the Menu of the Year: the fantastic Lab 2021, obviously in his restaurant in Senigallia (AN). Curiously, the award for the best Italian dining room ended just 7 km to the south, at the Madonnina del Pescatore of the lifelong friend-rival Moreno Cedroni.
The new Three Globes
Among the liveliest categories, there is that of ethnic restaurants: Casa Ramen Super left the scene, here they conquered Three Globes The bad habit And Gong Oriental Attitude in Milan. The novelty of the year is From the Mona Lisa, in Gabicce Mare (PU), led by Davide Di Fabio, former right-hand man of Massimo Bottura, and created by the Bizzari family. The special prizes are interesting. The one for the emerging cook in memory of Alessandro Narducci went to Luigi Salomone of King Saints and Lions in Nola (NA). The number one sommelier has been working at Reale – for sixteen years, by the way – and he is the Apulian Gianni Sinesi while the success of Piazza Duomo in Alba (CN) as the best restaurant as a proposal for wines by the glass. And still the pastry chef of the year is Tommaso Foglia who takes care of the desserts of the famous Don Alfonso 1890 and of the San Barbato Resort Spa & Golf in Lavello. We were also convinced by the award for innovation in the kitchen that went to Bu: r, Eugenio Boer's Milanese restaurant who is very good at making it starting from very strong regional and classic roots. When creativity is not just technique and exercise of style but gastronomic culture and respect for the past it becomes more innovative than any new idea. An important sign.
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