Tag: Stars

Green Stars: a new story for the Michelin Guide? – Italian Cuisine

The new symbol in the Rossa marks a turning point: from now on, the sustainability of a restaurant will make a difference and the cuisine will not be enough. And if in the first thirteen 'shamrocks' there are so many famous names, the future is destined for the brands of young people

For the faithful of the Michelin Guide, 2020 – forgettable in many ways – goes on file with the debut of the Green Stars. It is also a marketing choice, the right attention to a trend that has been evident for some years. But there is no doubt that a different story opens up for the most famous guide in the world: Italy also follows what has already happened in France and in the Nordic countries where the Green Stars debuted at the beginning of the year. «They celebrate and encourage sustainable initiatives in the field of gastronomy. From wherever you look at it, gastronomy is striving to improve its activities in this key, so we want to be a sounding board ", he explains. Gwendall Poullenec, international director of the Michelin Guides. «Chefs have the opportunity to preserve their territory and their community. The criteria assessed in the field by the inspectors are new .

The evaluation fees

Beyond that the first list of thirteen 'verdestellati''includes valid signs, but leaves some perplexity (however, the discourse reflects that on the normal Stars), it should be emphasized that in the assignment we do not look at the kitchen alone, but at the green style through criteria such as the self-production of raw materials, the impact energy, waste disposal, social vision. Attention to the environment alone is not enough for recognition, like the 'nobility' of the career (even if the first round is blue blood, perhaps too much), but the curators have already made it known that the selection of structures is destined to grow significantly from the next edition. "The ideas, techniques and skills developed by chefs in this sense foster awareness of an entire sector and help create an idea of sustainable gastronomy that can be a revolution and a movement tomorrow," says Poullenec. And it is no small statement considering the traditional confidentiality of driving.

The visions of the big names

It was said of the first list. With many heavy names starting with two three-starred: theOsteria Francescana in Modena (in reality, the Star would be for the many merits of Food for Soul created by Massimo Bottura with his wife Lara Gilmore) and the St. Hubertus in San Cassiano (BZ) where Norbert Niederkofler developed the Cook The Mountain vision, which changed the history of mountain cuisine. Then there is Davide Oldani with the new two-star DO, in Cornaredo (MI), attentive to the training of future cooks as well as the working model for those of his restaurant. The other two-star on the list is Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant’Agata dei Due Golfi (NA) with the Iaccarino family, a forerunner of 'organic' for fruit and vegetables – when it was hardly mentioned – in the splendid Punta Campanella company. Concept underlying the work of another southern family, the Ceraudo, which thanks to the owned farm has managed to ensure almost entirely the needs of Type it, the starred restaurant in Strongoli (CR) led by young Caterina, Michelin chef of the year 2017.

Joia, the lighthouse of the vegetable

Another place that (dutifully) received the Green Star is the Milanese Joia: since 1989 Pietro Leemann tells his vision of vegetable cuisine, designed to be in harmony with the earth and its sustainability. Stellato since 1996 is a place of worship for gourmets, even non-vegetarians. Less known, but always worth a stop, it is the closest star to Switzerland: green Lantern in Villa di Chiavenna (SO) that the experienced Tonola family – the chef is the young Roberto – manages to be self-sufficient from an energy point of view, also managing a trout farm. The production of energy, the considerable saving of plastic and two biodynamic gardens (fertilized with organic waste) are the basis of the work of the starry Lazarus 1915 in Pontelongo (PD), by the chef-patron Piergiorgio Siviero. Among the places that will be able to exhibit the double plaque outside there is Gardenia in Caluso (TO): for more than 20 years Mariangela Susigan has been collecting wild herbs and edible flowers in the mountains of the Morainic Amphitheater to use them in recipes, often archaic, which are the architrave of the menu. It also has a large vegetable garden inside the restaurant.

Castles and lofts

To close the group of 'macarons' that have repeated there is Virtuoso Gourmet – Tenuta le Tre Virtù: Antonello Sardi's sign, in San Piero a Sieve (FI), is quite clear on the vision. Since 2014, sustainability has been the cornerstone of the structure, which in the meantime has become self-sufficient for energy and has equipped itself with a certified organic farm with poultry, ancient fruit trees, olives. Tuscany has another Green Star, in that of Suvereto (LI): I ’Ciocio-Osteria di Suvereto where Fabrizio Caponi can count on the production of a farm equipped with a stone mill that grinds only organic grains. From the medieval castle to the most avant-garde structure among the thirteen awarded: House Format in Orbassano (TO) is totally sustainable. The building that houses Igor Macchia's restaurant is made with zero impact, the rural garden measures 2000 m² and recycling inspires the entire production process. The last Green Star is emblematic: it was awarded to a restaurant, formerly Bib Gourmand, much loved by gourmets such as La Crepa coffee, in Isola Dovarese (CR) which overlooks one of the most beautiful Renaissance squares in Lombardy. The garden and the vineyard are open-air pantries and there is no shortage of 'homemade' wines with cabernet and merlot blends. Merit of the Malinverno brothers, competent and passionate like few others: behind most of the Green Stars there are great families. It doesn't surprise us.

three new bistellati and 26 new stars – Italian Cuisine

Edition n. 66 of the guide, which moved more than expected. D'O in Cornaredo, Harry's Piccolo in Trieste and Santa Elisabetta at the Brunelleschi Hotel in Florence are the new bistellati. And in the group of single stars there are many young talents. 13 instead, the new Green Stars in sustainable venues

Kudos to the manager. It's not servility, but it's nice to find that Niko Romito – that has signed the newsstand issue of The Italian kitchen – was one of the protagonists of the Red Michelin n. 66. The most famous guide awarded him the special prize as mentor, for his (meritorious) activity in training which led to the creation of a group of students who have opened restaurants (already successful) or work alongside him. In a particular year – see streaming presentation – it must be acknowledged that the Michelin guide has moved more than expected. Ten clubs left the starred category (not only for a lower rating) and Jasmin in Chiusa dropped from two stars to one. In return, there are three new bistellati: the D'O in Cornaredo, Harry's Piccolo in Trieste and Santa Elisabetta at the Brunelleschi Hotel in Florence. The chefs are very good: respectively Davide Oldani, Matteo Metullio and Rocco De Santis (who made it in just two years). But surely, some illustrious colleague will have been disappointed: let's think of Carlo Cracco, Matteo Baronetto, Riccardo Camanini, Andrea Berton just to name a few.

Old champions and new talents

As many as 26 new single stars, objectively it was not predictable considering the complicated year, but it is clear that Michelin wanted to give a positive signal. How it affects that 14 of the newly starred chefs are under 35, four under 30. From this point of view, the drive for renewal and broader visions cannot be denied: in the list there are old catering foxes such as Alfio Ghezzi (Senso al Mart in Rovereto) or Peter Brunel (Peter Brunel in Arco) and talents already known as Antonio Ziantoni (Aunt of Rome), Riccardo Gaspari (San Brite in Cortina), Giacomo Sacchetti (La Cru di Romagnano, Verona), Pasquale Laera (Borgo Sant'Anna in Monforte di Alba, Cuneo). Note the second star at a Claudio Liu restaurant in Milan with the new one Aalto Part of Iyo (more than ethnic it is of international cuisine) and yet another to the network of Enrico Bartolini conquered by the Poggio Rosso in Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI), led by Juan Carlos Quintero. We are at nine!

The awakening of Liguria

The numbers of the Guide n. 66 say that Italy has ben 371 starred rooms: 323 singles, 37 with two and 11 with three, therefore all confirmed from last year. Lombardy remains the most starred region, with 3 novelties: 59 restaurants (3 with 3 stars 6 with 2 stars 51 with 1 star). Piedmont, with 2 novelties, is always in second position, with 46 restaurants (1 with 3 stars 4 with 2 stars 41 with 1 star), while Campania, with 3 novelties, is in third place on the podium, with 44 restaurants , (6 with 2 stars 38 with 1 star). To follow, the Tuscany is the region richest in news (6) for a total of 43 restaurants (1 with 3 stars 5 with 2 stars 36 with 1 star) and, finally, Veneto, at an altitude of 37, with two novelties (1 with 3 stars 4 with 2 stars 32 with 1 star ). Liguria also woke up and earned two single stars: the Nove in Alassio (SV) and Impronta d’Acqua in Cavi di Lavagna (GE). The other special awards went to Matteo Circella (Brinca di Ne, Genoa) as a sommelier, the aforementioned Antonio Ziantoni as a young chef, Christian Rainer (Peter Brunel) as room manager.

Milan loses positions

Among the provinces, Naples is always at the top with 28 restaurants (6 with 2 stars 22 with 1 star), Rome confirms the second position with 23 (1 with 3 stars 1 with 2 stars 21 with 1 star). Milan slips from third to fifth place with 17 restaurants (1 with 3 stars 4 with 2 stars 12 with 1 star), behind Bolzano with 20 (1 with 3 stars 3 with 2 stars 16 with 1 star) and Cuneo at altitude 19 (1 with 3 stars 2 with 2 stars 16 with 1 star). News in step with the times, the establishment of Green stars, to promote those restaurants that have committed themselves against waste and for green cuisine. 13 winners – from the Divine of blue swimming Federica Pellegrini, Michelin testimonial – with several "provincial" chefs not known by the general public, but also big names such as Davide Oldani (the big one of this edition without a doubt), Pietro Leemann, Norbert Niederkofler, Caterina Ceraudo and Massimo Bottura. Also the section of the Bib Gourmand with 11 novelties that bring to 252 the restaurants offering a pleasant gastronomic experience, with a complete menu for less than 35 euros. Which are the true soul of Michelin.

Michelin: when there were 89 stars (and incredibly one remains) – Italian Cuisine

In 1959, the Rossa awards the first awards in Italy. For the cuisine of our country it is the first turning point. Of that first group of stars, only one has remained such: Arnaldo-Clinica Gastronomica in Rubiera. And others are still alive and well

From the Alps to Siena: this was the subtitle of the first Italian Michelin Guide, published in 1956: the French managers – just 30 years after the publication of the volume dedicated to France – had considered it appropriate to look at the Italian cousins. First by assessing the country just above the Gothic Line and the following year by sending inspectors to the entire peninsula. But the debut in the parlor of international gastronomy dates back to 1959: for the first time, Italy got single stars and not even a few, if we look closely. The 89 Stars of that memorable edition can make you smile thinking about the 374 places with at least one star reported a year ago, but you have to think about what our kitchen was 60 years ago, in a country that has recently discovered the convenience of appliances (but it is still far the time of frozen foods) and looked curiously at the opening of the first Esselunga supermarket in Milan, in 1957 in viale Regina Giovanna, which allows you to find specialties from all over Italy. This was practically impossible at the time, where the products that can be purchased are only seasonal, fresh and local. When you want to eat away from home, you go to a trattoria, where you can taste regional dishes: made at their best, but not so superior to those that the house cooks make every day.

There was also a pizzeria

This is why scrolling through the list of 89 starred stars of 1959, the vast majority of places are of local and almost popular cuisine. Places for rich or bourgeois cuisine are rare: Vittorio al Mare in Genoa; Gatto Nero and Caval 'd Brons in Turin; Savini, 'In Riccione and Giannino in Milan; 12 Apostles in Verona; Locanda Cipriani and Antico Martini in Venice; Parrot in Bologna; Fini in Modena; Sabatini in Florence; Alfredo alla Scrofa in Rome; La Bersagliera and Umberto in Naples. Curiosity: people continue to debate whether or not Michelin should also reward pizzerias. Well, in 1959 Umberto served Neapolitan cuisine and pizzas …

The return of the 12 Apostles

Many of the 89 are still in business, often at normal levels and in any case frequented by those who love classicism or by tourists (primarily foreigners). There have been major exits like Fini, which had reached the double star in 1969, when Michelin decided to award nine in Italy. One of these was Gourmet in Milan, born from a dream of the legendary commendator Alberto Alemagna – precisely that of the panettone brand – and which closed its doors four years later due to the crisis of the confectionery company. Many have changed management. Others, still, although very far from that Star, remain iconic as is the case of the Milanese Bice and Antica Trattoria della Pesa. There is no shortage of venues being relaunched after a long stasis. One of them is working well to get back to where it was: 12 Apostles, always in the hands of the Gioco family, but which has put a hand to the environment and the cuisine, today defined as contemporary Veronese. With a good chef back home after great experiences – such as Mauro Buffo – regained the Star in the 2019 edition. The goal is to repeat it as happened in 1969.

85 years of history

But there is a place that has made an incredible exploit: it was starred in 1959 and still is. Apart from two years at the end of the 1990s, he never lost it, but above all it remained practically the same as the time of the first Red. IS Arnaldo-Gastronomic Clinic in Rubiera, ten minutes from the Modena Nord exit, even if it is in the province of Reggio Emilia. Rustic-elegant style in the environment, authentic vintage in the furnishings, managed by the grandson of mythical founder Arnaldo Degoli, born in 1907 and a musician, who opened the restaurant in 1936. Reading the menu takes you back 60 years: erbazzone and cracklings, cappelletti in broth and tagliatelle, the (mythical) boiled meat cart and Bolognese cutlet, grandmother's pudding and cardinal pears with eggnog. "The real problem, believe me, is finding products that match the recipes," he explains Roberto Bottero, chef and owner together with his wife Romina Astolfi. «Because I continue to prepare the dishes following what the previous cooks taught me, touching them as little as possible. My loyal customers would not forgive me, but the funniest thing is that in the last year in the room I have seen many young, satisfied. I really think it's no coincidence: there is a return to simplicity, tradition and gluttony. At least in the province, you can feel it .

Five tasting

Now, Arnaldo is not the only one among the 374 starred restaurants that holds the taste bar steady. Here and there in Italy there are still oases of mere tradition (well executed) surrounded by the restaurants of career young people and sacred monsters where at least the reinterpretation is in force, but above all one thrives on creativity, contamination, avant-garde. But no one can boast about sixty seasons in which to proudly display the red plaque outside. "But we don't live our commitment in contrast to our colleagues who make a totally different cuisine", continues Bottero. “Everyone must follow their own path, trying to please the customers who are the only wealth. I also like big clubs: I love Dal Pescatore for example. And I respect the greats: Massimo Bottura recently came to us and his compliments for the Sponged (ed, lasagna rich in béchamel, cheeses and morel sauce: a recipe from Degoli) have honored me ". five tasting menus, three – only for groups of over ten people – bear the names of Arnaldo, Anna (the daughter) and Roberto. After all, at Le Calandre there are the Raf and Max menus …

About the doctors

But you will sleep peacefully first of the forthcoming presentation of the Red, on 25 November? “No, for sure. It is normal because it would be a pity to lose it after so many years, but we know we are an exception as a type of venue. Then, I am sure we would not lose our customers: the danger is to cook badly and lose the hospitality that is the basis of our work for us. Arnaldo is a home, so much so that we also have hotel rooms ", continues Bottero. The curiosity remains of the sign that reads alongside the name of the founder Gastronomic Clinic. During the 1960s, the place was very popular with doctors from the Modena Polyclinic. Degoli loved to joke, saying that everyone left their clinic sad, while in his clinic the patients came out happy, because instead of the medicine and IV trolleys there were those of cured meats and boiled meats. From the pun to the addition even in the company name: Clinica Gastronomica Arnaldo srl, registered (still) to Arnaldo Degoli and Figlie. Yup, in Rubiera, time has stopped and we also wish the Red Michelin 2021. A place like this – if it maintains its current level, of course – must be starred for life.