Tag: cone

The 70 euro ice cream cone is eaten in Ruvo di Puglia – Italian Cuisine

For those who travel in search of luxury food (from the beginning of June you can go back to doing it), the Mokambo ice cream shop is an essential stop. Here you can taste the King's Scepter, a 70 euro cone made only with Iranian saffron ice cream

Feeling real at the table is possible. Gualtiero Marchesi taught it to us with his Rice, gold and saffron. But a gold leaf alone, without exceptional raw materials, is nothing. Franco, Giuliana and Vincenzo Paparella know that well in their ice cream shop Mokambo, to Ruvo di Puglia, in the province of Bari, they created the King's Scepter, a 70 euro cone made with saffron ice cream, cream and edible gold. And it is not the latter, the most expensive ingredient.

Mokambo ice cream shop: from the Bourbons to the fourth generation of Paparella

The history of Gelateria Mokambo begins in 1910, when Luigi Marseglia, first apprentice, then head of pastry of the Caffè Gambrinus of Naples, moved to Ruvo di Puglia, to follow his Apulian bride. "He is the madman who infected us with this disease," says Franco Paparella. " Here he opens his Caffè Gambrinus, one of the symbolic bars of the last century in the city, and takes under his wing Vincenzo Paparella senior. Just him, on November 8, 1967, in Corso Carafa 56, opened the Bar Mokambo, where the recipes of the white art of Marseglia live. Franco and Antonio, Vincenzo's two sons, work in the restaurant. At his death, the brothers split: Antonio remains in the Bar Mokambo and Franco embarks on an adventure in the world of catering. In the nineties the bar closes, but the shared nostalgia for that exceptional ice cream does not subside. Galeotto was Facebook. A user publishes a post in which she remembers that place and its delights. The message falls under the eyes of the brothers Giuliana and Vincenzo Paparella, Antonio's sons, who began to fantasize about reopening the family ice cream shop. But the key was to convince Uncle Franco, passionate about women and engines, but above all a skilled ice cream master, to get back on track. They make it and reopen at the end of summer 2016, "a winning business choice!", Jokes Giuliana. Vincenzo takes care of marketing, his sister "steals" the profession from the long-time master and takes care of the service and production, while still today Uncle Franco – as anyone who enters the world of Mokambo calls him – shies away from photographers and does not like limelight. But he makes an ice cream that marks the taste buds on fire.

Eight "other times" ice creams and ingredients

In the wells there are eight flavors (listed by Giuliana strictly in chromatic order): Crema del Re 1840 (the recipe of 1840 handed down by Luigi Marseglia and awarded by King Ferdinando II of Bourbon), Crunchy almond nougat (with local fruits, «Ruvo it has always been a territory suited for the cultivation of almonds ", explains Giuliana), Pistachio di Bronte DOP, Hazelnut of the Langhe PGI, Gianduia PGI, Pure Chocolate (obtained from twenty different cocoa beans, selected around the world; it is proposed the single origin taste or created with a blend of beans), Truffle (i.e. the spiced variant of chocolate). Some flavors revolve throughout the year: there is the superior Coffee, the Granita di Limoni di Sorrento PGI (available from May to September), the Gelato di Gelsi rossi, the one with quince, and Nonna Lena, made with dried figs , almond flakes and 100 percent pure chocolate nuggets). Each cone is garnished with cream («rigorously fresh, of animal origin), almond grains, Pistachio di Bronte DOP, home made Meringues and cocoa beans in combination with those used for the chocolate flavor available in the cockpit in that moment.

From the Recipes of Marseille to the Book of Ciocca passing to Iranian Saffron

In the early years of the century, Luigi Marseilles himself collaborated with the sending of some of his recipes to the drafting of the volume The modern confectioner and confectioner, written by Giovanni Ciocca, probably one of the most famous pastry chefs of the 20th century. Some of these recipes included the use of exclusive ingredients such as saffron, in fact, in that period common only in the kitchens of the most important families. The diffusion of this ingredient "to the general public" dates back to 1860 thanks to the introduction by the cavalier Giuseppe Alberti of the Strega liqueur. It is in fact this spice that gives the characteristic chicken color to the Benevento liqueur.

Because this is the best saffron

Saffron is evaluated on the basis of 3 parameters: the coloring power, given by the crocina, the odorous one, given by the safranal, and the bittering one, given by the picrocrocina. The comparative values of saffron grown in Italy and that used at the Mokambo ice cream parlor are clear. The Iranian saffron chosen by the Paparella team contains 233 nm of crocin, therefore it has a more intense color than what is known as cat 1. in ISO3632, which has 190 nm. The amount of safranel in saffron of 1 cat. in ISO3632 it is 70 nm; the Iranian one used by Mokambo reaches 100 nm. So it has a more intense scent. The saffron picrocrocina of 1 cat. in ISO3632 it is between 20 and 50 nm, while the Iranian one reaches 35 nm. "The main difference between made in Italy saffron and what we use is the bitter note, very marked, that metallic flavor of the spice", explains Giuliana Paparella. «The first taste of our saffron ice cream is slightly metallic, but then immediately begins to release citrus and floral notes. If the Italian saffron costs a third compared to the Iranian saffron there is a reason ". The price of the Italian spice stands at around 20 euros per gram, compared to 60-70 euros for that coming from Iran.

A precious friendship

The arrival of the current Iranian saffron in the hands of Uncle Franco and Giuliana is thanks to Giuseppe Ladisa and Yuki D'Innocenzo, two glocal adventurers from Bari, who in their spare time hunt for gourmet and not. During a Sunday in the Murgian hills, Yuki finds the Mokambo ice cream shop on TripAdvisor. "At the time, it only had 15 reviews," recalls the girl of Italian-Japanese origins. «I have read them all, carefully, and I have said to Giuseppe" Why don't we make a jump to Ruvo? ". Fighting skepticism, the two head towards the town of the North Bari area and fall in love with ice cream, the sympathy of the Paparella bros and the sagacity of Uncle Franco. They come back many more times. During one of their tastings, they say they are about to leave for Iran. Giuliana does not miss the opportunity and asks these two customers, now friends, to bring her some "real" saffron. During the trip Yuki and Giuseppe inquire about the production area and keep in touch with the ice cream shop. Having found the right product («because in Iran the level of counterfeiting is very high, explains Yuki), they buy it and deliver it to the ice cream makers, who obtain a truly unique taste. "In Iran they make saffron ice cream with pieces of pistachio or rose water. But they bring in a lot of guar gum, which makes it kind of like a chewing gum, "says Giuliana, who has done much better.

The ingredients

To do it King's Scepter they serve freshly milked milk (from the Altamura area, more precisely from the Santa Maria dell’Assunta farm in the Alta Murgia National Park), eggs, sugar and, of course, saffron. To taste it, you have to book the taste three days in advance, necessary to organize the processing. The infusion of saffron alone is around four hours. "We use the upper part, more noble than the highest pistil (each crocus has three, ed.), The sargol", explains Giuliana. In addition, saffron must be used at a not too high temperature. After a 15-minute freezing in the historic Carpigiani SED L20c of 1972, the saffron ice cream is ready to be mounted on the cone. After filling the bottom of the waffle with cream and three Pistachios from Bronte DOP, add the ice cream and a layer of fresh cream. It would not be a real royal scepter without a little precious metal: in fact, the composition closes with a sheet of edible gold and some flakes of caramelized sugar. The King's Scepter it costs 70 euros per cone. It can be purchased only on order and for a minimum of two cones. An entire bowlishalf a kilo costs between 450 and 500 euros. As with all other flavors, you can also receive it at home. The tasting is elegant, velvety. On contact with the palate, the citrus scents free the imagination: we are in the A thousand and one nights and the Orient can almost be touched, even from a small town in Puglia.

Text Stefania Leo

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The ice cream cone with 24 carat gold – Italian Cuisine

Gold to eat … on ice cream!

It is not the first time that gold is used in the kitchen, but for some time there has been an ice cream that is driving all New Yorkers crazy.

Matcha N ’More is a tiny Manhattan ice cream shop specializing in matcha tea: ice cream, drinks and confectionery based on the famous Japanese green tea. In addition to its unmistakable taste, the matcha is also very rich in antioxidants and beneficial properties for the body. But this ice cream is certainly not famous for its healthy properties: the cone is embellished with one edible gold leaf of 24 carats, a trend already widespread in Japan for some years.

Apparently the gold leaf it has no taste: it's just beautiful to photograph and post on Instagram. All in all, eating gold is not too expensive: 9 dollars.

Ice cream shops in Rome: cone or cup in 10 top addresses – Italian Cuisine

Artisans, attentive to intolerances and gourmet, Rome's ice cream parlors are a fresh discovery based on fruit, creams and savory flavors. Here's where to go for a really good ice cream

When the temperature rises, the craving for ice cream shoots forcefully and you can't help but listen to it. However, it is difficult to navigate in Rome, a city where ice-cream parlors in recent years have more or less opened up to the rhythm of electronic cigarette shops. Among historic ice-cream parlors, brands that have established themselves as synonymous with good products and small artisan businesses that work well, here is a small guide to find the tastiest cone and satisfy the freshest summer desire.

Mirage

Finally a woman, Maria Agnese Spagnuolo, at the head of an ice cream parlor that has conquered Rome with good reason: seven sales points, a few tastes but simple, with a few peaks of creativity like Baklava and great warhorses like the cheesecake taste and the Kiss of the prince (kiss and hazelnut) together). Some might complain that ice creams are not large, but to make up for it, the taste gains, along with the quality of the strictly natural raw material. The wafer used for cones is also very good.

Ice cream shop of the Gracchi

Everything starts in via dei Gracchi, even if we then report the openings of viale Regina Margherita, via di Ripetta and via San Pantaleo. Soul of this ice cream shop is Alberto Manassei, master ice cream maker who loves simple but well made things. Few peaks of creativity, therefore, but solid foundations for an ice cream that does not leave disappointed. Attention to the colors for the intolerant: white with milk, blue without, yellow with eggs. Don't miss the Bronte pistachio (there are those who think it is the best in the city), but also the gianduia with whole hazelnuts has its say.

Claudio Torcè

Claudio Torcè puts the name and even the face on it. On the other hand he is recognized as one of the Capitoline ice cream artists, as well as a teacher of other colleagues scattered around the streets of the capital. The most suitable place to taste his creations is via dell'Aeronautica, in Laurentina area, where the main laboratory is located, from which the tastes for the sales point of avenue Aventino. Resized after opening 8 stores (declared in an interview with Gambero Rosso that "ice cream cannot be replicated indefinitely"), Torcè has just faced an important restyling, both of the logo and of the contents and in particular of the ice cream, who had to rebalance to respond to his choice of field to replace sugar with fructose and milk and cream only with highly digestible products, to meet everyone.

La Gourmandise

We are in the Monteverde area, neighborhood that reserves not a few gastronomic goodies. Among these the ice cream of this Pesaro moved to Rome, Dario Benelli, who likes to invent innovative tastes and makes intelligent use of spices like saffron, fennel or nutmeg, to give an original and classic touch at the same time. To meet the intolerant, goat's milk is used or alternatively there are tastes without milk, and most tastes are gluten free.

Snow of Milk

The novelty is that it has opened the second store to Prati, near Piazza Cavour, while the headquarters a stone's throw from Maxxi remains a reference point for those wishing to combine art and food. The craftsmanship and the refinement of the ingredients, possibly certified organic, Dop and Igp, unrefined sugars, but also the water of the sorbets that comes from the mountains. The ice cream that bears the name of the ice cream shop, Neve di Latte, is basically a fiordilatte with a strong presence of vanilla.

Tedesco and Hauser

She is the German, but he is Roman, who evidently hid a destiny in the surname. Together they created a small neighborhood in via di Santa Maria Ausiliatrice, not far from the Happio shopping center. Teutonic rigor in the search for the raw material and in the balance of the ice creams, among which we highlight the salted pistachio, the hazelnut of Viterbo, the ginger. The used pod is also excellent.

Otaleg!

For those who did not understand it, the name is ice cream written backwards, but it is perhaps the only strangeness of this solid ice cream parlor that recently closed the original lab in Viale dei Colli Portuensi to focus on Marco Radicioni's second creature , the one of piazza San Cosimato. Even if the laboratory has shrunk, the ambitions to produce high quality ice cream have not been reduced at all and Marco Radicioni it is confirmed a "nerd" of ice cream, which does not use semi-finished products, but starts from the raw raw material to make it become ice cream or sorbet.

Punto Gelato & The Taste Gelato

Two names, a single ice cream maker that quickly won the hearts of Roman gourmets. His name is Günther Rohregger and it comes from Bolzano, as well as the water that it uses for its sorbets comes strictly from the Dolomites (Acqua Plose), as well as its raw materials are selected in order to always have fresh products, without taking anything away from the seasonality. The main selling point is its own behind the Pantheon, in piazza Sant’Eustachio, but you can also find his ice creams in via dei due Macelli and via dei Pettinari.

At the Seventh Frost

He has just completed twenty years of activity, but he always remains one reference point for the Delle Vittorie district in which it is located. The ice cream of Mirella Fiumanò in very difficult times he already preached about craftsmanship and the search for raw materials. The selection is still strong and often falls on small producers, from the hazelnuts of Viterbo, to the lemons "Verdelli Siciliani". In sorbets there is at least 40% of fresh fruit and the seasonality of the product is followed as much as possible.

Strawberry Fields – artisanal ice cream parlor

With its two stores, in via Tor de ’Schiavi and in Colli Aniene, Geppy Sferra can be defined as a frontier ice cream artisan. Proud of his periphery, he makes the culture of ice cream at 360 °, starting from elementary and middle schools, where he goes to teach how to make a good artisan product, without leaving ethics at home. Its raw materials are possibly organic and seasonal, the percentage of fruit in very high sorbets, cocoa comes from fair and solidarity agriculture. In short, a good ice cream in every sense. Last but not least, in the store on via Tor de 'Schiavi Geppy has recently launched the novelty of the bistro-ice cream, where savory dishes are served in which the flavors of ice cream at the counter are used: unsalted ingredients that nevertheless go against the other elements of the plate in an up and down of tastes, textures and temperatures.