In search of the lost ice cream, which disappeared from the ice cream parlors after the success of the 1980s, we found it in Milan. Not in ice cream parlors, but in Fabrizio Barbato's pastry shop, L’Île Douce
"My love was born in Malaga, my heart remains in Malaga," sang Fred Buscaglione. Malaga ice cream, on the other hand, remained in the 80s, when it depopulated in ice cream parlors along with the amarena variegated and the Smurf flavor. They are all gone, supplanted by salted caramels and grandmother's creams, extra bitter chocolates and vegan ice cream. A pity thought the pastry chef Fabrizio Barbato of Milan, soul of L’Île Douce and named emerging Pastry Chef 2019 by the Gambero Rosso guide.
The true story of Malaga ice cream
Malaga ice cream takes its name from a particular type of raisins, the Malaga grape grown in the area of the Andalusian city of Malaga. The raisins were left to macerate in Malaga wine, a sweet and aromatic wine produced in the same area, and then used to prepare typical local sweets, a reminder of the Arab domination. Malaga ice cream should be prepared with the raisins soaked on a base of cream flavored with the wine itself. What is it Malaga wine? «I tried it, but it is impossible to find it, and in fact if Malaga ice cream has become a classic of ice cream, or at least it was, high quality Malaga wine has practically not survived the tourist conversion of the area once rich in vineyards of Moscatel. This wine, which was very popular like Porto and Sherry in the European courts, today resists just for the will of some producer who makes quality bottles of it. A bit like Malaga ice cream.
Without milk, many raisins
«I use it for a base of eggnog flavored with amber rum and vanilla, so not a cream; is without milk, like the other ice creams we make, water based. Then I will add Australian raisins macerated in aged marsala . The result is amazing, fragrant, crunchy and chewable because the raisins (many) give it an important texture. Not an ice cream to lick, but to be savored with a spoon, very different from the memories of now thirty years ago. «I wasn't even made to eat when I was a child, Fabrizio says, «because it should have been alcoholic. In reality they were only bases with artificial flavors ". And that's why he wanted to do it again: an ice cream designed by a pastry chef, where the primacy goes to the taste, rather than the creaminess, designed to be kept at home, therefore that gives its best at -19 ° C, the temperature of a very common freezer. No cones, no cups, only ice cream tubs to eat at home.
But this beyond the summer of Malaga-flavored ice cream is officially also that of the pastry chefs who started to whisk in the Carpigiani.
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