The Friulian grape here becomes the interpreter of the terroir, giving exciting bottles that are able to challenge time
After an evening spent with Mario Zanusso, owner with his father Ferdinando of I Clivi, organic winery of Corno di Rosazzo, in Friuli, comes to ask: "Are you more like Galea or Brazan?"
I Clivi was born out of passion. In the sixties, Ferdinando is often in Paris for work, where he discovers great wines very different from those that are drunk in the taverns of Treviso, where he was born. He tastes, studies, deepens and grows his passion, to the point that in the mid-nineties he bought a small vineyard of two hectares on Mount Quarin, in Brazzano di Cormons, his wife's place of origin. In the following years, following purchases of other vineyards and the support of his son Mario, with whom he began experimenting with winemaking with indigenous yeasts and the use of steel only.
Galea and Brazan are the names of the two white wines that represent the top of the company's production and which, despite being both made with old vines from Friulian, are many different, because expressive more of the terroir of origin than of the vine: the Galea vineyard is on the hills of Corno di Rosazzo, along the Slovenian border, under the name Colli Orientali del Friuli, while the Brazan vineyard is on the southwest side of the mountain Quarin, under the name Collio Goriziano.
I'll tell you right away: I'm from Brazan, because in whites I prefer the fresh, tasty and vertical thrust to the broad, generous and rich aromas that, instead, offers the Galea, but the comparison is played on the wire, because they are both excellent labels and with a great propensity for aging.
The Brazan vineyard is made up of 80-year-old plants, which are rooted in the typical soil of the area, a marl of Eocene, calcareous and clayey origin. Although both are at 200 meters above sea level, compared to the Galea vineyard, Brazan is fresher, as it is more affected by temperature changes between day and night and is more exposed to sea air, which gives the wine flavor.
Pure Friulian, the Brazan 2016 is a deep and elegant wine, vertical and marine, with aromas of grapefruit and cumin. Over the years (we tasted an amazing 2002 and an excellent 2000) it acquires notes of hydrocarbon and anise, without losing freshness and elegance. The 2016 vintage was regular, as opposed to 2002 (rainy) and 2000 (hot). Very good even now, it will give you great emotions if you let it grow to an age.
Why now: 2016 was an excellent year, it's better to stock it now and then let it refine in the cellar.
As did: the Friulian grapes are pressed whole (without destemming) at low pressure to obtain only the flower must which is left to settle for a night. Fermentation takes place in steel with natural yeasts, then matures in steel on the fine lees for 18 months.
To combine with: first and second courses of fish, white meats.
Serve it at:10-12 ° C.
Price: 22 euros.
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