The other Puglia, to be visited with the amazement in the eyes, the local flavors to cheer the palate, and the priceless pleasure of breathing an air that tastes of history, tradition and unspoiled nature
In Puglia there are real ones canyon, did you know? Except that they are not called canyons, but Ravines.
Here it is. If I started this article by writing that the most characteristic elements of (my) region are neither the crystal clear sea nor the food, probably I be reading all wrong. Yet believe me, I am convinced.
The charm of Puglia
As an Apulian born and proud to be – well before Puglia ended up on everyone's lips – I know that to make this region a special place there are a thousand other reasons. The first, the light: always warm and enveloping, even on days with little sun, it embraces you and never lets you go, whether you are on the beach, on the street or lost in the white alleys of a city of stones and tuffs.
THE colors. From the blue of the sea to the even bluer of the sky, passing from the red earth of the olive fields to the orange of citrus fruits, to the green of meadows and countryside: spaces that would seem infinite if it were not for the irreducible dry stone walls put there to delimit its boundaries.
The views. The famous ones: the cathedral on the sea of Trani, the trulli of Alberobello, the white view of Ostuni, the baroque churches of Lecce. But also the most hidden and secret ones, which I would like to tell you about here. Starting right from Ravines.
Land of the Gravine
There Land of the Gravine it is a protected area that extends over 28 thousand hectares of territory (not quite small, here), and which encompasses 14 municipalities of the Taranto area, nestled between the lower Murgia and the Ionian Sea. These countries stand on real ravines (yes, like those of Matera made spectacular by the filming of Mel Gibson in Christ's passion), which originated for millions of years from the tectonic thrusts of the seabed and with gorges that here and there even reach 50 meters. These are impervious and very scenic landscapes, precious laboratories of biodiversity, but also of archaeological importance: it is among these rocks, in fact, that the so-called develops rock civilization, consisting of caves that were inhabited from the Neolithic until the 50s of the last century, and which had their maximum splendor in the Middle Ages, when many walls were painted and frescoed with Byzantine icons and Christian effigies, some of which are still well preserved.
The most beautiful are located in Mottola, 30 kilometers from Taranto, defined in 2009 by the Italian Touring Club: "The icing on the cake of the Ionian rock habitat". It's at Massafra, 18 kilometers from Taranto (where really the Adriatic highway ends), in whose two main ravines that separate the historic center from the new part of the city you can also admire a Castle from 970 AD it's a sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna della Scala, to reach which you have to go down 125 steps (according to the premises increase in the ascent: try to count them!).
In Mottola, the four most important cave churches have been renamed Wonderful Caves of God from the magazine "Bell’Italia" in the 80s and, to visit them, you can contact the local tourist guide Maria Grottola.
By bike
For a more panoramic exploration of the Gravine, the advice is to go along the bicycle lane which for 15 kilometers connects the municipalities of Castellaneta and Palagianello (Ta) and which, following the route of the old railway tracks of the Bari-Taranto railway, then redeveloped, overlooks the canyon also crossing old scenic viaducts to say the least, from which on clear days you can also observe the sinuous peaks of Basilicata and Calabria. The cycle path – absolutely within everyone's reach – can be covered by bike or on foot, but in summer we recommend you avoid the hottest hours because there is very little shade.
To refresh yourself on arrival, stop at La Strega restaurant di Palagianello, where you can not miss the fish dishes, but also simply a pizza, excellent. To sleep, however, rooms from 65 € at the Masseria La Gravina, old 18th century farmhouse restored. And if you decide to take a trip to the sea anyway (no, it's not forbidden, on the contrary!), The most beautiful and close one is Castellaneta Marina, where the stretches of free beach are also wide. With a little luck, maybe you will come across a bathroom with Vasco Rossi, well-known admirer of the place.
Other itineraries
After exploring the Gravines, a decidedly more classic itinerary, but equally particular, can not stop in the Valle d'Itria, where the Apulian landscape gives its best. By car drive the road from Mottola to Martina Franca (About 26 kilometers): you have to be careful of the curves, but your eyes will repay you with wonders.
TO Martina get lost in the alleys of the historic center, an intricate labyrinth of tuffs, marbles and elegant baroque palaces (the most famous is Ducal Palace, today seat of the Municipality). Here, on summer evenings, there is a great coming and going of people: tourists, yes, but also inhabitants of neighboring countries looking for a bit of coolness (in Martina, a sweater can also be useful in August). Respect the tradition and put yourself in line for a fried panzerotto Superbar Carriero: if everyone does it, sometimes there will be a reason!
From the road that connects Martina Franca to Locorotondo you can enjoy the most spectacular view of the Apulian town perfectly circular, and from whose viewpoint in the villa the view over the Itria Valley is priceless. The tour of the village, delicious, does not last long and you really don't run the risk of getting lost: you always return incredibly to the starting point! Despite the ongoing health emergency, the well-known music festival should also be held this year between July and August Locus, which over the years has led artists such as Lauryn Hill and Ben Harper to perform in the farms in the area: at the link, all the updates on the 2020 event.
In these parts you sleep in comfortable trulli among the olive trees, each decorated with a different style, at theFarmhouse Masseria Aprile, historic residence of 1600 2 kilometers from Locorotondo, devoted to tourism twenty three years ago. «Hotels do it ppe there trris (money, editor's note), we make guests feel at home ", promises volcanic Mrs. Anna on arrival. And don't mind.
In ten minutes by car from Locorotondo you will arrive at Alberobello, the famous village of the trulli (the peasant constructions of drywall, without mortar) which, despite the fame and the inevitable crowd, will still leave you speechless.
To fill it with taste, stop at the restaurant The Plow, to satisfy the palate with imperial appetizers, cavatelli on cream of broad beans (or orecchiette with turnip greens) and excellent quality meat.
To end the tour, after honoring the Ionian, for mar condicio treat yourself to a bath too Adriatic: from Locorotondo drive towards Monopoli (Ba) crossing the Selva di Fasano (from which you can admire another breathtaking view of the Itria Valley) and arrive in the renowned Chapter beach. In the evening, however, stroll on the marina of the beautiful town that bears the name of the famous board game (but don't look for Victory Park here: it has nothing to do) and try the raw fish at the restaurant Il Guazzetto. If you go to Monopoli on August 15th, know that in those days the town celebrates the patronal feast and on the night of the 15th the fireworks are fired directly on the sea. It will be one of the most beautiful – and least discounted – memories of your holiday in Puglia.
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