A few kilometers from Garda Trentino, the talented chef from Fassa is conquering gourmets with one of the most eclectic cuisine in Italy. With the extra touch of Nikkei vision, dear to him, and in a beautiful designer restaurant. We went to see him
Let's start with the surprise: to find in the menu of a restaurant on a "stradone" between Arco and Garda a tasting called Experience Nikkei is comparable to crossing the lake by kitesurfing after a one-hour course. It becomes doable clearly if your name is Peter Brunel and despite being Trentino doc (from Val di Fassa) you have a whimsical vision and a great cooking experience: on the subject, however, in 2014, at the service of the Lungarno Collection, launched the Nikkei Fusion Bar & Restaurant in Florence, in the light of his passion for Asia and Latin America. "With this restaurant I have made many little dreams come true," says Peter.
It opened a year ago
Back not far from home, thanks to a passionate entrepreneur such as Lorenzo Risatti, Brunel opened the sign that bears his name in a space of pure design, very bright and refined, with an international style. A real home, a place where Brunel can welcome guests with an informal and refined look at the same time. "To create the various areas, I worked alongside the architect, designing the tables and furniture. Then, I wanted to create a glass window framed like a large mirror, to show the pastry . They are 200 square meters, characterized by an elegant, smart and contemporary style, leaving nothing to chance. "For example, since the lake is one kilometer from the restaurant, I thought of creating a sort of swimming pool on sight, a pool that gives the sense of water, with three sails that are used to break the noise of the road and a waterfall, ”he explains.
A real home, elegant
A restaurant designed as a large apartment, with the intention of welcoming guests in different spaces depending on the gastronomic moment they experience, from a welcome drink to after dinner. Here then three areas, a living room and two rooms – the Gourmet and the Dehors overlooking the garden – in addition to the red and white wine cellar. An intimate space, characterized by the absence of doors and by many communicating environments, which are inspired by D'Annunzio's Vittoriale and the concept of pleasure. Velvets, designer light points, travel memories, but also colorful details and vegetal motifs surround the rooms and lounges complete with turntables, where guests are seated for a drink.
The three tasting
Let's go back to the kitchen. The 45-year-old Brunel is in a happy moment, and can be seen in the ability to propose dishes for three tasting menus, also allowing himself to hold a card with sixteen proposals that do not fit into it. The first is called The families of vegetables and the Garda olive, which should definitely be considered more like the green menu than the homage to the territory. The second is that of The great classics which allows you to taste again (or discover) many of Peter's excellent dishes, starting with the iconic Lofoten where three marinated anchovies arrive resting on a fennel breadstick held up by two supports, under sea water. The image recalls stockfish hung out to dry: the breadstick is broken with a fork and the anchovies fall into the "sea", in a game with a surprising taste. The third – incredible, considering where the restaurant is located – is theExperience Nikkei.
Trentino and Peru
It is one thing to be born in Lima and come to Italy preparing ceviche and tiradito for fans. Another is to be Italian and perhaps have done an internship in a large Peruvian restaurant to propose some Peruvian touches on the way back. Still another is to study the topic and create an entire menu that goes beyond the mere concept of uniting Trentino and Peru, because it includes foie gras, tequila, octopus and whiskey sour. It is not fusion, because the vision is absolutely personal and of clear Italian vision, since Brunel always finds the thread and in some cases touches remarkable peaks such as in Nikkei Pizza & Mountain Tuna: pink trout, quinoa wafer, red onion, white corn, sweet pepper and guacamole. Technique and imagination as in Cevice between lake and sea: char, trout, cuttlefish, sea bass, beetroot leche de tigre and coriander. But also that subtle balance between very different products: potato praline, white chocolate and broad beans, pork and chocolate that become the dessert 50 & 50.
A large cellar
We also enjoy the happy support of Christian Rainer – from St. Hubertus – who manages a young, attentive service, but above all manages a cellar where the Central European soul finds a series of dishes that are perfect for pairing. Obviously all the Italian and French cult are not lacking. The desserts are part of the Loretta Fanella's selection. In just one year since the opening, Brunel has already covered many miles despite the very strong wind upwind for three whole months: which gives great hope when he finds him downwind or downwind. After all, his launch pad was Riva del Garda, where he conquered in 2003 his first Michelin star when he was just 28 years old. It was time for him to go home, ultimately, given the result.
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