Extreme in name and in fact. It takes a good dose of heroism to produce Fontina Dop Estrema d’Alpeggio, a new brand reserved for the small number of wheels made in the highest pastures, the so-called tsa, above 2000 meters above sea level. In Valle d'Aosta, summer transhumance traditionally lasts 100 days, between San Bernardo (patron saint of mountaineers, June 15) and San Michele (venerated by shepherds, September 29): the herds are led to mountain pastures where they feed on fresh grass , rich in flowers and forage essences, which reverberate in milk and cheese. But that of the pasture is a hard, isolated life, punctuated every day by two milkings (the first well before dawn), cleaning of the stables, herds to take to pasture, processing of the curds and care of the forms.
A 2016 project
The difficult conditions have therefore led to a progressive abandonment of the mountain huts. The Estrema d'Alpeggio Fontina Dop project was born in 2016 precisely to preserve the high mountain pastures and enhance the dairy products of excellence. "Safeguarding the mountain pastures and their production is essential for the protection of the territory and biodiversity," says Daniela Fornaciarini, owner of the Alpe di By mountain pasture (Ollomont), which she has renovated with dedication. Journalist and television producer, environmentalist of the first hour, she gave up everything, as she tells us, for the conservation of these places. It is therefore natural to join the Estrema project, together with three other producers.
A rigorous specification
The disciplinary of the cheese respects that of the Fontina DOP but is more stringent. The cows, of the Valdostana red spotted, black spotted and brown spotted breed, during the period at high altitude must be fed exclusively with grazing grass, without any integration. And that's no small difference. Giving up on feed improves the quality of the milk, which is even richer and more aromatic than that of other mountain cattle. The scent of the Fontina Estrema is herbaceous and flowery and the flavor is very intense (especially in the very rare 12-month aged forms, with a melting paste in the mouth), without losing the characteristics of sweetness, softness and elasticity typical of this cheese.
An ancient technique
There processing, in compliance with a centuries-old technique, takes place in the dairy, starting from freshly milked whole raw milk, with the addition of native lactic bacteria, natural calf rennet and salt. Fontina d'Alpeggio is the undisputed protagonist of the Valle d'Aosta fondue, with eggs, milk and a little flour: from the steaming plate, to be served with croutons but also with gnocchi, vegetable flans or the typical mocetta, a very special aroma is released. The other classic recipes are the polenta concia, precisely because of the cheese; the crepes; the slices with ham and fontina, and the inevitable ones soups.
Estrema d’Alpeggio Fontina Dop is a brand owned by Arpav (Association of owners of the Aosta Valley Alpegggio), which have also drawn up the production specification.
by Marina Cella
photo by Maurizio Lodi
from Sale & Pepe Magazine, November 2020
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