After long restorations, the Winged Victory, extraordinary bronze statue of the first century AD. And the Lioness of Italy (as Carducci called her) takes the opportunity to exhibit her treasures. Not everyone knows, in fact, but Brescia is a treasure trove of art and history: Roman vestiges and Lombard monasteries, Renaissance squares and Venetian-style architecture, prestigious museum collections (such as that of the Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo with the Raphael, Moretto, Canova and Hayez families) and even murals. Past and future coexist between the Castle that dominates the city and the former industrial structures ready to host the design or installations of SubBrixia (the project that is bringing art to metro stations). But let's go in order.
History and culture
The good salons of Brescia are Piazza della Loggia, which houses some of the most beautiful buildings in the city: the Loggia, of course, with its three arches and the hull-shaped dome, the Clock tower, famous for the Màcc de le Ure (the madmen of the hours), the two bronze statues that strike the bell every hour, and the pawnshop. A few steps and here is the medieval one Piazza del Duomo or Paul VI overlooked by the two cathedrals: the old cathedral, one of the most significant examples of Romanesque style and the new one with its record-breaking dome (it is the third in Italy after San Pietro and Santa Maria del Fiore). Last in chronological order, Victory Square, a metaphysical space where the inspiration of the architect Piacentini enjoyed, almost a century ago, building palaces, skyscrapers and towers in the name of the purest Rationalism. In a few minutes there is the archaeological park, ready to tell the centuries of Roman Brixia with the Forum, the imposing Capitolium (temple dedicated by Emperor Vespasian to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva) and the great Theater. A cloister, then a second, a third and here are the majestic spaces of Santa Giulia, the great monastery that testifies to the Lombard period of the city. Unesco World Heritage, today its churches, rooms and nuns' cells are occupied by art collections that tell the story of the city and its territory, from prehistoric times to the period of the Lords until the domination of the Serenissima.
Food of great tradition
Brescia, however, is also told through its food. The Brescia cuisine is a specialty, full of exclusive local products protected by DOP, IGP and DOCG. Furthermore, together with other Lombard capitals, the city adheres to East Lombardy, a brand that represents restaurateurs and producers who have made sustainability, biodiversity and quality a choice of life. At the table there will be casoncelli, among the tastiest examples of the great Italian tradition of stuffed pasta. They can be lean or fat: "the filling of ours", assure, for example, the centenary Pastificio Franzoni, "it is strictly braised meat!" But cheeses are also part of the golden register of city gastronomy: Brescia, in fact, is located at the confluence of three valleys (Valle Sabbia, Val Camonica and Val Trompia) from where the Bagòss, the Valtrompia Dop, the Silter. Without forgetting the goat cheeses, dal Fatulì to the Barbatass ("Strange first name", explains Cristina Peroni of the Val Persane farm, "due to the fact that it matures with noble molds that resemble badger fur"). And the desserts? The most traditional is, without a doubt, the Bossolà, a pumpkin-shaped cake with flour, sugar, milk and eggs, which became famous in the rest of Italy because the famous Brescia Iginio Massari he has been offering it for years in his pastry shop.
Travel notebook
Trattoria Porteri
IN THE LOCAL ALSO CUNSÌ (PEPPERS AND CHEESE), MALFATTI AL BAGÒSS, BEEF WITH OIL. TO VISIT THE ATTACHED CENTENARY SALUMERIA (IN THE PHOTO NEXT TO THE OWNERS WHO HOSTED THE SALE & PEPE SERVICE).
The Winery
IN THE FORMER MONTE DI PIETÀ, FRIED FRESH WATER FISH.
Fire Eaters
POLENTINE ON THE MENU, PREVOSTO DISH.
Osteria Zia Gabri
CREATIVE PROPOSALS: SMOKED MACKETTE WITH PLUM SORBET, GNOCCHI WITH SQUID AND TREBBIANO SAUCE.
Diameter eighteen
A FAST AND TASTY STOP WITH RICH WELL LEAVENED FOCACCE AND ARTISANAL BEERS.
Nineteen 19
THE BRESCIA TRENDY LOVES ITS SCAMPI IN TEMPURA.
Alps area
THIRTY BRESCIAN CHEESES.
Veneto pastry shop
DELICACIES SIGNED BY THE MASTER IGINIO MASSARI.
Food
LEAVENING, VASO COOKING AND FERMENTED LABORATORY.
A la Cave
SUPER SELECTED ALCOHOLIC.
Franzoni pasta factory
AMONG THE SPECIALTIES, THE CASONCELLI.
Val Persane Farm
SPECIALIZED IN GOATS.
Info: visitbrescia
Enrico Saravalle
photo by Francesca Moscheni
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