Tag: history

Cucumbers: from ancient history to many varieties – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

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Before being included in the eighteenth century in Linnaeus’ classifications as Cucumis sativumthe cucumber, defined by Lorenzo the Magnificent as «aperitif and healthy, is cited with the name of «cedriuolo (from citrusdue to its slightly acidic taste) by Pietro Andrea Mattioli, the famous botanist of the sixteenth century, who, being also a doctor, saw it as a purifying agent, anti-inflammatory And diuretic (today we know that it contains iron, calcium, phosphorus and vitamins B and C) and understood its benefits also «for external use, to refresh the skin and reduce wrinkles, redness and puffiness (such as: bags under the eyes!). It is not for nothing that it is a main component in many lines of beauty products.

From a nutritional point of view, beyond the most common uses – preserved, like the classic and always welcome pickled gherkin, or in Greek tzatziki – it is an essential component of fast food sandwiches, and with a good scientific basis: the cucumber combined with wholemeal bread, thanks to the tartaric acid it contains, it moderates the absorption of carbohydrates which often turn into fat. And then, very low in calories but rich in fibre and water, and therefore very filling, it is the king of summer diets.

(Historical research by Marina Migliavacca and Valeria Nava)

Know the ingredient: Cucumber varieties

Cucumbers belong to the family of Cucurbitaceaesuch as pumpkin, courgette, melon and watermelon. They have in common the fact that they grow on an annual, creeping herbaceous plant, covered in hair and equipped with tendrils, those curls that serve to firmly anchor themselves to supports or to the ground. All fruits are called peponids and contain a large quantity of seeds in the central part. Also suitable for growing in pots, as long as they have good exposure to the sun and without stagnant water, they grow well at a temperature between 15 and 25 °C. Let’s get to know the types of cucumber now.

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A typical variety of Puglia, which the region itself, in collaboration with the University of Bari, has chosen to protect through projects for the promotion of horticultural agro-biodiversity. It is distinguished from other cucumbers by its more rounded shape and its striped rind, sometimes similar to that of watermelon. It is very sweet and more digestible than other varieties because, like the Barattiere (n. 5), it belongs to the species Cucumis melo (that of melon) and is free of the molecule that makes cucumbers difficult to digest.

Minute

As the name suggests, this variety of cucumber is small in size, contains few seeds and is very crunchy.

Telegraph

Even more than 30 cm long, it is completely devoid of thorns on the skin but may present some small protuberance (tubercle). With a very delicate flavor, it is easily digestible. Choose those that do not exceed 3 cm in diameter: they are particularly sweet.

Snack

Small in size, to be nibbled even as a snack, as the name suggests. It does not peel.

Barrater

Another variety from Puglia, also known as Tondo di Fasano. It is not really a cucumber because it is of the same species as melon, of which it also has the shape. Buy those no bigger than a baseball. Crisp and very fresh, it is perfect for adding a twist to a mixed fruit salad.

Marketer

The most classic of cucumbers. Like all varieties, it has refreshing and purifying properties. It is rich in vitamin C and mineral salts and low in calories. It is also used in cosmetics for its ability to soften the skin.

Kiwano

Its scientific name is Cucumis metuliferus. It comes from the African continent and has been known for centuries. The plant has the same characteristics as the others, that is, it is a climber with yellow flowers and hairy leaves; the fruit instead has a leathery rind, orange in color when it is at the right stage of ripeness, provided with pointed protuberances, for this reason it is also called horned melon. The pulp inside is composed only of seeds covered in mucilage, the effect is similar to that of the passion fruit. The flavor is particular: a cross between that of cucumber and that of lemon with hints of banana.

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Anti-fascist pasta | The Italian kitchen – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

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Celebrate the 25 April it’s a must, why not do it with a plate of anti-fascist pasta? With war unfortunately shouting from many countries around the world, it is more than right to be grateful to those who fought, those who suffered, those who fell, for our freedom. We are lucky and we should remember this every day, even better if through gestures of help towards those in need. With a sense of light superficiality, let’s spend Liberation Day in serenity. If the weather permits it in the open air, at any rate conviviality around a set table or with a sandwich in handsavoring not only the flavors, but the freedom.

What did the partisans eat?

Food tells our story and it is natural to wonder what the partisans ate during the times of the Resistance. As it is easy to imagine, there wasn’t much available under the fascist regime, autarky was strict, ingredients such as olive oil or sugar were luxury, even pasta was not accepted. For the partisans, the situation was even worse, having to also fight hunger through a subsistence cuisine, partly contraband thanks to the support of civilians ready to help them at a very high price (there was a real risk of being shot by the black militias if discovered).

A few years ago, a timeless book was released, entitled Partisans at the table. Stories of resistant food and recipes of freedom by Lorena Carrara and Elisabetta Salvini (available on Amazon), which traces the Resistance through food. There are many episodes told that make the heart ache and hope: from the reconstruction lasagna enjoyed by Teresa Noce returning from the death camps to the 35 thousand children fed by Emilian women in the harsh winter of ’45. What has stuck in my memory the most refers to 380 kilos of butter pasta offered by the Cervi family to the entire town of Campegine to celebrate the fall of the regime. A day of extraordinary generosity that gave birth to anti-fascist pasta, a symbolic dish never to be forgotten for its intrinsic value. In fact, the Duce preferred a healthy diet based on cereals, rice had ousted pasta, practically banned – as can also be seen from The Manifesto of Futurist Cuisine by Tommaso Marinetti.

History of anti-fascist pasta?

The anti-fascist pasta was actually born before the Liberation, but it has still remained a symbolic dish today, re-proposed at a national level with various activities spread throughout Italy both on 25 April and on July 25th. Let’s see why.

The July 25, 1943following the meeting of the Grand Council of Fascism, Mussolini was deposed and arrested, thus marking the end of fascism afterwards 21 years. The king designated the marshal of the army Pietro Badoglio as the new head of government, who however did not stop the war, but sided with the Germans. However, it was an event worth celebrating Cervi brothers they procured the flour, took butter and cheese on credit from the dairy and prepared kilos and kilos of pasta. They loaded the wagon and took it to the square in Campegine ready to distribute it to the people of the town. A great day of celebration, a sigh of relief awaiting the long-suffering democracy.
In memory of that event, and to celebrate the liberation of Italy from Nazi-fascism, like every year also for this 25th April Deer House will host the big party which will start at 10 am and last the whole day.

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Identità Golose 2024: Italian Cuisine present and «disobedient – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

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Claudio Ceroni: I have always done things that didn’t exist before, the last but also the most important founding Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi.

2. What does kitchen disobedience mean?

PM: Close the books and be yourself.

CC: Simple: innovate. Breaking the mold.

3. If tradition works well (it has within it the seeds of self-regeneration), does it make sense to disobey?

PM: If it weren’t like this, the world would stop. He was more important than many Icarus
fearful little men.

CC: Tradition is successful innovation, this has become a cliché, but it is also the truth. Disobedience as an end in itself makes no sense, but only if it has within itself the positive seed of creating something new that is destined to remain.

4. The Futurists from the pages of The Italian kitchen they denied pasta, a disobedience that made little sense, a pure provocation. What would you never disobey?

PM: In being myself.

CC: Disobedience should not be confused with rebellion as an end in itself. Not all disobedient people are innovators and not all innovators are disobedient. I would never disobey the duty to give credit for success to the work of all those who helped me achieve it.

5. Sensible disobedience, that is, based on knowledge of the past, awareness of the present and future vision, becomes tradition: The Italian kitchen with its 95 years of life it is an emblem of this. Do you have any anecdotes or personal memories regarding our magazine and its being “sensibly obedient/disobedient”?

PM: Thirty years ago I wrote an article about The newspaper dedicated to bear radicchio, a spontaneous salad that grows in the Adamello Brenta park. Once I left, someone from the management let me know that its collection was prohibited. I asked why The Italian kitchen had written tons of it without any problems and I was told: «Be up The Italian kitchen it is an honor”. I understood that as authority varies, any bans also vary.

CC: Mine is not a memory but the awareness that the present of The Italian kitchen it is the best proof of how a great renewal can arise from a fruitful history. Thank you!

All of us in the editorial team of The Italian kitchen we will be present in our stand during the days of the congress. We are waiting for you to browse the pages of our history together.

Allianz MiCo, via Gattamelata – Gate 14 – Milan. identitagolose.it

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